I am doing this for a friend so I'll get the info as quick as I can.

I believe he only smells the sulfur when the hot water is running not the cold.

What could this be a sign of?

(no its not hell on earth :p )

Bacteria in the water reacting with the anode rod can produce a "rotten egg" smell and make your water taste bad. To correct this problem you must change the old magnesium rod for a aluminum one. Then you must drain and flush the tank and flush out ALL the hotwater lines. You must also remove and clean ALL aerator screens. TIP: Leave one intact so you can put them back the same way. They will not work otherwise. The anode rod is located under the large hex nut on top of your heater. If you need instructions on how to flush your heater, click on back. Hope this helps, Regards, Tom

Quote:

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Originally Posted by speedball1

If you need instructions on how to flush your heater, click on back. hope this helps, Regards, Tom

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Ok... I clicked back =)

Detailed instructions would be much appreciated. Can the aluminum anode rod be purchased from Lowes/Home Depot or would I have to go to a distributor?

Could you also describe where the aerotor screens are (are they in the hot water heater or are you talking about the ones in the fawcetts)

thanks Tom !

For long life and fewer troubles you should keep your heater clear of mineral build-up by flushing on a regular schedule. Let me show you how. Attach a hose to the boiler drain at the bottom of the tank. With the pressure on, open the boiler drain and let it run until the water runs clear. You will see a spurt of red,(rust) followed by white grains,(lime or calcium carbonate). This shouldn't take more then a few minutes. Do this monthly to keep it clear. Now flush out your hot water lines on ALL fixtures. Now pull each aerator and clean the screens. Be sure you put them back togather the same way you took them out. Don't forget to flush it out every month. Your heater will thank you for it.
The aerators are located on the ends of faucet spouts.
You will have to check around to pick up a anode rod. Good luck, Tom

Tom,

One more thing (since this is not my heater) I assume the boiler drain knob is pretty evident to see.

What precautions do we need to take when replacing the anode, you mentioned pressure earlier, to we need to turn that off before replacing the anode? If so is that as simple as closing the cold water input into the water heater?

Thanks again

To remove the Anode Rod first turn off the power and shut off the water at the cold water inlet. Put a wrench on the large hex nut on top of the tank and back it out counterclockwise. At this time, when the tank's open, it would be a good idea to pour a gallon of bleach in the heater to kill the bacteria. After you replace the anode rod, (don't forget to Teflon Tape the threads) open up the nearest hot water faucet to relieve the vacume and drain the heater. Now flush it again to remove the bleach. See what you've let yourself in for by being a good neighbor? Good luck, Tom

Tom, one last thing. He is attempting to unscrew the bolt now and it is stuck pretty bad. If he gives it too much arse the whole unit wants to move. I suggested liquid wrench or something to loosen it up. Since you do this all the time is there a better solution to possibly loosen this nut a bit?

Thanks again

If the hex nut sticks I take a hammer and smack the wrench, sort of like a impact driver. Once you get it started it should turn out. A little WD40 wouldn't hurt. Good luck, Tom