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-   -   How much will it cost me to change the copper pipe for the entire house? (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=46652)

  • Dec 4, 2006, 05:09 PM
    mcsemoney
    How much will it cost me to change the copper pipe for the entire house?
    My house built 1948, raised floor plan with two baths and one kitchen. If someone is taking a bath in the first bath, second will low on water pressure; if hot or cold water been turn on by the second bath, first bath water temperature will change as well; kitchen has no hot water; second bath hot water takes long time to heat up and sometime has yellow color water coming out first.

    I know the copper price has gone up like crazy, but I don’t know anything about pluming, so I wonder how much now a day to get something like this done. I just know that I need to change the copper pipe always from the water meter outside the house to inside, but what should I ask or tell people what to do? How can I tell the contractors who are bidding on the job are good or not? What do I check before and after the job? What should I ask for warranty? Any testing I should do after or during the piping?
  • Dec 5, 2006, 05:24 AM
    jhardegr
    Before you replace the pipes inside your house you should check your water pressure and flow rate coming in to the house. It is quite possible that your supply line is too small, or even has a lot of sand in it (there is some sand in all water systems).

    Replacing the main water line coming in to the house from the street is generally a lot easier than inside where you have to deal with walls, etc.

    Here is an excellent web site that deals with designing and installing lawn irrigation systems:

    http://irrigationtutorials.com/


    Jess (the author) gives excellent information on determing your water pressure and capacity, and on how to go about changing your supply line. Specifically, look at:

    http://www.irrigationtutorials.com/sprinkler03.htm (municipal water supply)

    Or:

    http://www.irrigationtutorials.com/sprinkler04.htm (well water)

    Also, you should be able to replace the copper line with PVC, which would be quite a bit cheaper and its pretty easy to do it yourself.

    If this answer is helpful please click "rate this answer" and give me your feedback.

    Good Luck

    --John
  • Dec 5, 2006, 07:51 AM
    speedball1
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by mcsemoney
    My house built 1948, raised floor plan with two baths and one kitchen. If someone is taking a bath in the first bath, second will low on water pressure; if hot or cold water been turn on by the second bath, first bath water temperature will change as well; kitchen has no hot water; second bath hot water takes long time to heat up and sometime has yellow color water coming out first.

    I know the copper price has gone up like crazy, but I don’t know anything about pluming, so I wonder how much now a day to get something like this done. I just know that I need to change the copper pipe always from the water meter outside the house to inside, but what should I ask or tell people what to do? How can I tell the contractors who are bidding on the job are good or not? What do I check before and after the job? What should I ask for warranty? Any testing I should do after or during the piping?


    As jhardegr has suggested check and change the water service first before doing anything in the house. If you're going to replace the water service I would use 3/4" PVC for the average household. Call the water department and ask what the static water pressure is in the mains in your area.
    To give you a estimate on repiping your home I would have to be there to measure out the material I would need and the labor to install it. But I can tell you this. If I were there I would attempt to talk you into repiping with PVC and CPVC. And start flushing your water heater out.
    For long life and fewer troubles you should keep your heater clear of mineral build-up by flushing on a regular schedule. Let me show you how. Attach a hose to the boiler drain at the bottom of the tank. With the pressure on, open the boiler drain and let it run until the water runs clear. You will see a spurt of red,(rust) followed by white grains,(lime or calcium carbonate). This shouldn't take more then a few minutes. Do this monthly to keep it clear. Now flush out your hot water lines on ALL fixtures. Now pull each aerator and clean the screens. Be sure you put them back togather the same way you took them out. Don't forget to flush it out every month. Your heater will thank you for it. Hope this helps, Tom
  • Dec 5, 2006, 08:09 AM
    labman
    Is your old pipe copper? I don't think it limes shut like galvanized. My house originally was copper from the pressure tank on. I have terrible hard water. I have had various pipes apart for one reason or another. After 36 years, most of them have just enough lime to leave a rough surface. The only serious problem was the galvanized cross at the pressure tank. It was down to pencil size from inch. I replaced it with an assembly of PVC fittings.

    If your house is galvanized, yes, replace it. If you are doing it yourself, yes PVC/CPVC. If you are paying somebody that wants to use PEX, maybe don't argue.

    If the old pipe is copper, leave well enough alone and do as Tom says.

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