My dryer quit drying last month & I paid $50 just to have the fuse replaced in it. It comes on & the drum rolls just fine. They said that everything looked fine on it. I have done laundry just fine for 3 weeks (once a week, 4 to 5 loads). It has stopped drying again. Should I change the fuse myself to save the $50? If so, what fuse do I buy & where is it at on the dryer so I can change it? If not, what do you think is wrong with it. It still has power & the drum rolls just fine. Thank you in advance for your time & assistance in this matter.

Was the thermal fuse replaced in the dryer?

The thermal indicates another type of problem, like insufficient exhaust, lint or obstructed ductwork.

If it's a regular fuse/breaker, then this can indicated that the heating element is dying.

About how old is the dryer?

The model # may not be correct. I could not find it on www.searspartsdirect.com. Usually there is a "." after the first 3 digits. Many times the first three digits are painted and the rest are stamped. They usually have an exploded value for free.

That is the actual model number, all numbers are stamped on. No painted ones or quotations. It is about 21 years old. The lint trap is cleaned with every use & I checked to the vent hose all the way through the wall, no clogging. That was my first thought, that the hose was kinked or clogged. The repairman that changed the fuse didn't tell me which fuse he replaced. All I know for sure is that it was on/in the dryer itself. It has never tripped my fuse box. He said that for its age that the rollers & everything was in good condition. I am unemployed, so cost is a big factor. But I will call him in again if needed, just wanted avoid that if it was something I could do myself.

I also had the same problem with the searsparts site. I got nothing when I tried to find the right part.

Here is a typical dryer schematic: American A/C & Appliance

There are two thermal limits. There are only a few reasons they should blow.

Not enough or insuffiecient air flow, so it really means cleaning ALL the lint out in the dryer. The lint sometimes collects on the sensors. Animals such as birds make nests in the vents.

The next issue is insufficient airflow and that can be caused by a bearing that's gummed up or a slipping belt. That can take a little more effort to repair. You have to check for friction in the bearings and looseness in the belt.

I doubt, but it's still possible that the drum belt is slipping. Again, I doubt it.

My parent's dryer is 42 years old essentially maintained by me since I was a kid. Very few issues:
1) belt fell off once
2) periodic ignitor replacements
3) painting
4) One blower belt replacement and thorough cleaning/lubercating of the exhaust system
5) 1 burner diverter head (metal fatique)
6) Lint build-up and periodic cleaning. I know exactly where it collects and I can reach it after removing the exhaust.

And it's a Kenmore.

I suspect your going o have to call Sears and ask for them to do some research.

Thank you for your time & assistance with my dryer. My husband & I will try the suggestions you made. I wish I could repay you somehow, but being unemployeed has its limits. The best I can do is to pray the Lord blesses you for your kindness.

Thanks.

Still haven't found a diagram, but I did find this listing containing a list of common thermal fuses: Dryer Thermostats and Fuses - Order Now, Same Day Shipping

I still think your model # may be wrong: i.e. missing the first 3 digits.
See the sample tag here:

http://www.appliance411.com/parts/sears.shtml

What I'd try to do, is to take all of the prefixes (e.g 123) listed above and add it to your model #. e.g. 123.96283800 and see if you get a hit on the www.searspartsdirect.com website.