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electric range wiring

Can I use 12/2 romex to wire a two-burner electric cook top?
Total wattage: 3,700. @240 VAC = 15.41 amps

I'm doing the wiring for a volunteer ambulance service crew quarters and want to save them money.
http://products.geappliances.com/App...&Sku=JP256BMBB

(I was unable to scroll down and read your terms of service.)
Thank you.
Rober Gift, EMT

Sounds OK.

Use 20 A breaker.

PS: Fixed to working link in post #1

Quote:

Originally Posted by KeepItSimpleStupid

Use 20 A breaker.

PS: Fixed to working link in post #1

Yes. 20 amp.

I was concerned thathe bare copper ground/Neutral wire would not be allowed.
In range cable I have noticed that all three conductors are insulated.

What did I do wrong? Copy and paste link is not adequate?
Thank you for fixing the link.

Can we not go back and edit?

1. Your not allowed to use a plug for this install. The Romex will get you to the junction box based on the install instructions. Your not supposed to shorten the conduit that comes with the top. It specifically says the cooktop should be properly grounded. The install instructions are very specific.

That stove was not a 240/120 so only a ground is needed.

Quote:

Originally Posted by op

What did I do wrong? Copy and paste link is not adequate?

Under Go Advanced make sure "parse links is checked", otherwise you have to add the tags [url] [/url] to enclose the URL.

Editing by the original poster is usually available for the first 24 hours. In some cases, I believe, your account has to active for at least 24 hrs to gain some privledges such as the ability to PM and edit for 24 hrs.

You can set some options on how you want the interface to behave. I, for instance, don't see bold when I reply, I see the tags for bold. So instead of seeing this, I see [noparse][B]this[/B][/noparse]

Quote:

Originally Posted by KeepItSimpleStupid

Your not allowed to use a plug for this install. The Romex will get you to the junction box based on the install instructions. Your not supposed to shorten the conduit that comes with the top. It specifically says the cooktop should be properly grounded. The install instructions are very specific.
That stove was not a 240/120 so only a ground is needed. ...

Thank you so much. Yes, was within the first 24 hours.

Why does GE not want the conduit shortened?
Not enough slack if it needs to be pulled out and serviced?

My wife wants the GE Cooktop to set into the indoor barbecue grill.
The cooktop will be installed in a wood cutting board which I already cut to fit inside the grill.

I plan to cut a gray Heavy Duty Appliance Extension cord. (12 gauge, 20 amp, 250 volts).
18 inches connected to the appliance terminals to male plug end.
Plugs into its femalend with 5 feet connected to #12 romex with wire nuts inside a junction box.

When the gas grill is used, the wood board taken out and femalend dropped down inside below the grill so that it will not get hot.

Are the conductors in this flexible cord aluminum?
Can I connect flexible conductors using wire nuts?

Any objections to this improvisation?

Thank you,

Robert

I can't picture the install. If this were permanent I'd use MC cable:

AFC Cable 1704B30T00 MC Cable, 100' 12/2 MC Steel Cable

It looks like you want a removeable top which is not recommended by the manufacturer. It doesn't appear to be concealed.

I'd probably consider SO cord rated at 600 V and 90 C with a twist lock connector. Portable Cord and Power Cables from Allied Wire and Cable Distributor of Portable Cordage

Pricey, but safer.

You will get superior abrasion resistance. A higher temperature rating I believe.

A twist lock connector would prevent the possibility for the cable to come out accidentally.

I'd also recommend the L6-20R receptical and matching plug L6-20P. See: NEMA Configurations

Usually the SO cable is available by the foot at a supply house. The twist locks are expensive. Might cost $20 each.

The ends must be properly strained reliefed. A portble cord connector is essential. If it's subjected to a lot of pulling, you can get a wire mesh like strain relief. The harder you pull, the tighter it gets. Something like this: L7504 > Strain-Relief Grips > Wire Mesh Safety Grips > All Leviton Products from Leviton Electrical and Electronic Products of the correct size.

That would be by "suggestion" for the best method. It will be pricey.

Some might call it overkill.

You can attach pics to your post using "Go advanced/manage attachments" directly if you want.

Quote:

Originally Posted by KeepItSimpleStupid

I can't picture the install. If this were permanent I'd use MC cable:

No room on the cement counter either side of the grill. Also exhaust hood is over the grill.
I would plug the cords together and set the 22" wide/24" deep wood insert holding the GE cooktop into grill opening.

Quote:

Originally Posted by KeepItSimpleStupid

It looks like you want a removeable top which is not reccomended by the manufacturer. It doesn't appear to be concealed.

Correct.
The Cooktop stays in the wood insert but the insert is removed, cables unplugged and female end lowered inside grill where it will be shielded from heat.

Quote:

Originally Posted by KeepItSimpleStupid

I'd probably consider SO cord rated at 600 V and 90 C with a twist lock connector.
Pricey, but safer.
You will get superior abrasion resistance. A higher temperature rating I believe.
A twist lock connector would prevent the possibility for the cable to come out accidently.
I'd also reccomend the L6-20R receptical and matching plug L6-20P.
The ends must be properly strained reliefed. A portble cord connector is essential. If it's subjected to a lot of pulling, you can get a wire mesh like strain relief. The harder you pull, the tighter it gets. Something ... the correct size.
That would be by "suggestion" for the best method. It will be pricey.
Some might call it overkill....

Wow, thank you for all the information. Much appreciated.
Overkill is better but it should not be needed. She anticipates using the cooktop most. So not much flexion or unplugging.