When starting, Honda Accord '82, engine speed goes very high 4000-4500 rpm, and immediately after that stops. The effect is repetitive. However, after pressing a gas pedal repeatedly 2-3 times per second it is possible to maintain the engine speed in the interval of 2000-3000 rpm, and doing so it is even possible to drive. I suspect it is a
Carburation/emission control problem, engine does not have idling speed (800-1000 rpm), (Honda Accord, 1982, California model).
I appreciate any explanation and possible SOLUTION of this problem.

You may need to clean and rebuild the carburetor. Afterwards, set the choke pull-off, fast idle, and curb idle. It sounds like the adjustments are way off.

Honda Accord 1982 California model with Keihin carburator and CVCC engine.
For some reason, most likely caused by vibration, carburator started moving and is not strongly attached, it moves vertically when lifting (less than 1mm play). The distorted rubber O-ring is even visible from the top and above the throttle. My question is do I need to remove the whole carburator by unscrewing carburator to manifold retaining nuts or is there any other way to fix the problem? This loose connection caused engine revs up to 4500 and back to 0, as I explained in my previous letter.

Remove, clean (Stoddard fluid), rebuild (kits cost $38.99 at AZO), and tighten studs in block. Be bold, do repairs the right way, and learn everything you can about the car--you'll be glad you did. I used to love rebuilding carburetors on Japanese cars and motorcycles. Engineering is superb, with quality O-rings, rather than gaskets, throughout.

Please indicate, what to you mean by: tighten studs in block? My Honda Haynes manual shows the picture of dismantled carburettor parts, but I do not understand how insulator (attaches carb to manifold) and the rest of carburator are connected (between them are these 2 rubber gaskets). This connection with new gaskets has to be tightened!
I hope I do need to renew only these to gaskets)
THANKS very MUCH for your quick answer.

The insulator keeps the engine heat away from the carburetor. It goes over the studs from the manifold. Nuts go over the studs and hold the carburetor to the manifold.

Once you remove the carburetor, you will see how everything fits together. Follow the directions that come with the rebuilding kit. Taking it a step-at-a-time, there's not all that much to it. Obviously, you need to remove much of the "parasitic" items from the carburetor, prior to cleaning it in Stoddard fluid.

If the studs in the manifold are loose (not likely), tighten them. Normally what happens is the insulator block gets saturated with gas and it no longer seals properly. Also, the O-rings get flattened and they no long seal properly.