OK I have a 93 honda civic with a d15b7 engine in it and sometimes it starts fine and other times it doesent want to start at all,I just put brand new ngk sparks plugs in it the other day but its still doing it can someone help me out please?

A proper electrical system evaluation of your Civic begins by answering these 3 basic diagnostic questions:

1. When you turn the ignition switch to ON (not START), does the Check Engine Light (CEL) come on and then go off after 2 seconds?

2. When the CEL goes out, do you hear (or feel) the main relay "click"?

3. During the 2 second interval that the CEL is on, do you hear the fuel pump in the gas tank run?

Please answer each question in a 1-2-3 format for me:
1.
2.
3.

My cel never comes on at all but the weird thing is if I pull a spark plug wire the car will usually start so I have no idea what it could be but the fuel pump does kick on then it kicks back off after a few seconds

If your CEL never comes on, it could indicate a problem with your ECM (computer).

Do this. Disconnect the MAP sensor connector. With the ignition turned to ON, check for 5 volts between the right reference wire socket of the connector (+) and the main ECM ground on the thermostat. Really press the black test lead into the ground. If you don't have approximately 5 volts, the ECM is failing.

If your CEL does not come on, after jumping the Service Check Connector with a paper clip and turning the ignition to ON, then the CEL bulb may be burned out.

Thanks I'm going to try that and see how everything goes

OK it seems that someone that had the car before me took the cel light out so I replaced it and now it works and to answer the 3 questions the cel light does come on a go back off after 2 seconds and you can hear the fuel pump and you can hear the main relay click with the cell light and the fuel pump but the ecm is still not sending anything so I have no idea what it could be but thanks a lot for the help

What voltage did you record at the MAP sensor connector?

5 volts

That's good news, in that the ECM and the Main Relay appear OK. Therefore, I suspect the igniter or coil is bad. If you want, Autozone or O'Reilly Auto Parts can check them for you free. Based on the age of your vehicle, I would replace both of them, plus the rotor, while you are inside the distributor. If you took your car to Honda, this is what they would do. Remove the coil, before removing and replacing the igniter--it gives you much more room. Be sure to coat the back of the igniter with silicone grease, before installing the old or new igniter. Silicone grease assists heat transfer. It's the intense heat that usually fries these components, which is sometimes caused by poorly maintaining the secondary electrical system (spark plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, and spark plugs). The high voltage has to go somewhere and when the resistance is too great, or carbon tracks exist inside the distributor cap, the voltage is directed back into the igniter and coil.