I recently acquired a 1993 Civic that has been sitting for about 6 years after being wrecked. I have replaced/ordered the body parts and am now focusing on the mechanical. I replaced the battery, drained and cleaned the fuel tank, and installed a new fuel pump however I am not able to get the starter to turn over using the ignition switch. I've checked all fuses and relays. I've even performed TxGreaseMonkeys "K" test and everything checks out fine. I've also checked the clutch swtich and it's fine too. When I jump the solenoid directly to the battery the starter turns the engine and I get spark on all 4 plugs. Injectors seem to be working fine. The car simply will not turn over. I should also note that the engine is also not running but that's part 2... Any help would be appreciated.

Read the link below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post235560

Check the ignition switch for wear, pitting, or melting:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post224652

Be sure to change the oil and filter, since a lot of moisture has accumulated over 6 years.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey

Read the link below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post235560

Check the ignition switch for wear, pitting, or melting:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post224652

Be sure to change the oil and filter, since a lot of moisture has accumulated over 6 years.

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Would a faulty ignition switch prevent the motor from starting?

I should have provided more detail in my initial post. The car was wrecked sat for a year then driven a few times before being parked again. It's actually only been sitting about 3 years.

I'll be replacing all fluids, filters, hoses, and belt this weekend.

Yes. It's fundamental to many systems working at all; e.g. starter motor, ECM, fuel system, and ignition system.

Since the starter only works, if it's wired directly to the positive battery terminal, either the wiring or the ignition switch is suspect.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey

Yes. It's fundamental to many systems working at all; e.g., starter motor, ECM, fuel system, and ignition system.

Since the starter only works, if it's wired directly to the positive battery terminal, either the wiring or the ignition switch is suspect.

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Is there anyway to test the ignition switch without removing it from the vehicle?

. Check all under dash and under hood fuses with a test light or multimeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

Be very thorough. Visual checks are not good enough.

. Disconnect the small wire going to the starter solenoid and check for battery voltage, when the ignition switch is turned to start.

OK 4 months and way too much cash and this is where I am.

Complete engine/transmission rebuild. New distributor, new fuel pump, new fuel injectors, new ECU/ECM, new MAP sensor, new clutch interlock switch. All new fluids, filters, hoses, spark plugs and wires.

The car ran fine for about a month then started intermittently losing power. I had my regular mechanic check it out and he couldn't find anything specific but pointed towards the fuel system. When this event occurs the CEL does come on and the code reads "43" which also indicates a fuel system problem.

Considering the history of the vehicle and all the work that I've done can anyone suggest a course of action?


Thanks!

Update: I decided to go through the entire fuel system last night. Found that although I paid the engine shop to clean the fuel tank they didn't do it. I also found that one of the new fuel injectors had not been installed properly and one of the o-rings was destroyed. I blew out all of the fuel lines, replaced the screen on the fuel pump, replaced the o-ring on the injecter, cleaned out the fuel rail, and replaced the fuel filter. All is now running like a top.

I need to have the tank dropped and cleaned. Can anyone recommend a reputable shop in West Houston / Katy area?