The height of my garage door is 7', I would like to increase the opening to approx. 100"
See pic.
The top of the garage door is at 84 inches
The header is 13 inches tall
http://www.awedio.com/sdc/IMG_0416 (Large) (Custom).JPG

http://www.awedio.com/sdc/IMG_0417 (Large) (Custom).JPG

Which way does the roof span? It looks like there is a truss with stamped connector parallel to the wall with the opening, but the framing that extends to the exterior wall looks like it is on a slope. The big board with the springs attached is necessary to span the door opening. Without changing the roof above, it appears that the only space available for raising the door is occupied by short 2x4's, or a max of about 6". An exterior shot might help. It looks like 84" + 6" = your max of 90" or so. A stout steel beam might span the width with less depth than the wood beam. It will be expensive; you should call a structural engineer.

For direction of roof span (see pic)
My thinking, was to get rid of the wood beam & go with a steel beam
http://www.awedio.com/sdc/IMG_0416 (... (Custom)1.JPG

I was thinking originally that the steel beam would only replace the garage door header, but you're right, it could be high enough to support the roof slope and be the garage door header. You'll have to temporarily support that slope while you swap structure, not easy. Can you go with 2 single doors? The header could be much shallower, spanning only 9' not 18'.

I don't think so. With 2 single doors, you would need a 3rd vertical support member, in the middle between both doors?

I need the clear span, since I plan on installing a machining center in the garage, which is the reason for trying to increase the height because the machine needs a min. clearance of 98"

Should I be looking for a framer or a structural engineer?

Structural engineer is the safest. He doesn't have to be involved with really big commercial projects, just somebody who can look at your building to get a good understanding of the loads that are imposed on the header so he can do some calcs and give you the best option.

It looks like you have truss tails from cut trusses returning into the web trusses to for a hip or a side shed roof. Can you post an exterior pic?

If by chance you can alter the roof over that area by removing those tails returning onto the header and install a clear span truss, that wall will not bear a load because it will be a gable end wall. You then can maybe get your height you'll need.
One problem will you have is you won't be able to mount a garage door opener the way you have. You will need a commercial side motor opener.

http://www.awedio.com/sdc/IMG_0884 (Custom).JPG

http://www.awedio.com/sdc/IMG_0891 (Custom).JPG

http://www.awedio.com/sdc/IMG_0889 (Custom).JPG

So, --- do you need a bigger door so you can get more junk in there?
Sorry, just had to ask. :)

There isn't an additional 16" (100-84) between the top of your door and the bottom of your overhang, judging from the picture. You will have to redo the roof as suggested to remove loads from the header and raise the height of the eave.

the header is 13"
from the top of header to bottom of trusses is 8"

if I get rid of the header, don't touch the 2 horizontal 2x4's, I should be able to p/u at least 13", assuming a 5" steel beam will work!

or get rid of 1 of the hor. 2x4's (in addition to the above), the opening should be approx 98.5"

Quote:

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Originally Posted by skiberger

It looks like you have truss tails from cut trusses returning into the web trusses to for a hip or a side shed roof. Can you post an exterior pic?

If by chance you can alter the roof over that area by removing those tails returning onto the header and install a clear span truss, that wall will not bear a load because it will be a gable end wall. You then can maybe get your height you'll need.
One problem will you have is you wont be able to mount a garage door opener the way you have. You will need a commercial side motor opener.

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skiberger,
Can you re-explain in lay man's terms
Thanks

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DwightB

So, --- do you need a bigger door so you can get more junk in there?
Sorry, just had to ask. :)

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Nope, you were close, not more junk but bigger junk :D

Do you see how the lower area roof above the garage door returns back into the upper triangle part? That lower roof along with the over hang needs to be removed.
Additional trusses (maybe 2-3) would be installed so the triangle part (gable end) is flush with the outer wall of the garage.

What I'm looking at can be done be you need to alter the roof over that section of the garage to take all rafter weight of the wall plate over the door.

Even if you think you can remove the large header and install a 5" beam you'll still need to cut the rafter section that overhang (where your gutter is attached) the driveway area also.

Now I understand, thanks for the detailed explanation