I am considering abandoning a 1.5" drain that services my kitchen and laundry tub. I've had problems with it draining and after snaking and extracting some interesting items without solving the draining problems I suspect it might be better off trying something else.

http://img709.imageshack.us/img709/5117/97516612.jpg

I can't get the cheap Home Depot snake into the bottom of this drain, entering through the pvc section on the left, it barely makes the first curve and I don't see it being possible to make the next one. Given the age of the house (75 yrs) and condition of the pipe I'm not sure it's worth bringing in a pro to hear I have to dig it up and replace or something.

I'd rather start up the kitchen...

http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/2999/60789441.jpg

Sever the steel drain about 4 ft or so from the floor and connect it to new 2" pvc running down into the basement in it's place. Can the remaining 1.5" pipe that vents up through the ceiling about 5' out of the picture serve as a vent for a 2" pipe?

http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/9025/23302073.jpg

I'm curious if it's okay to run the new 2" PVC down into the large open cleanout in the above picture into the main drain.

This would leave me without a laundry tub drain, which seems like a bit of an issue. Any other thoughts or guidance would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Sounds like you've got a good plan of attack. Every thing will work just fine(yes 1 1/2 vent is fine for a 2 inch drain). Loss of laundry sink is a bummer, but there are ways to pipe a new drain for the L.S. too. Let us know if you would like more suggestion on repiping the L.S.
It would most likely require cutting into the horizontal cast iron, and running another vent up to tie into the kitchen sink vent. With the pics you've given, and the great detail, Im hoping Mark will come along and draw you up a diagram to show you how this all works. I do suggest adding a full size cleanout to compensate for the cleanout you will be using for the sink tie in.

More of a question than an answer, the pipe in pic #1 looks like the left pipe in pic #3. If so I am wondering where it goes since it appears to be lower than you main where it exits through the wall

Thanks girlsdad, the laundry tub is a loss but unless it's required by code I think I can live with just adding something to the same place I'd attach the new sink drain to drain the washer.

Ballengerb - The pipe in the 1st (and 2nd) photo is indeed the left pipe in the 3rd. There is what looks like a p trap where it exits the house through the wall/floor... where it goes from there I don't know as it's ~5' under ground.

Hi all... :)

Taurenex:

The ptrap for the old laundry tub should have been at the laundry tub.. If not, then perhaps it is elsewhere, but you are eliminating all so not very important anyway!

Eliminate the piping as you planned. You want to cut into the galvanized pipe at about 42" off the first floor and install an 1.5" shielded transition clamp to change up between 1.5" glavanized pipe and the new 1.5" PVC pipe. Increase from 1.5" to 2" using a bushing into a 2" sanitary tee fitting. Pick up the kitchen sink using 2" to under the sink (see diagram). At the sink you will be best to install a 2" wye and 2" end cleanout and then install a 2" ptrap and reduce to 1.5" piping from there or you can reduce to 1.5" anywhere you like...up to you.

Use a 2" long sweep elbow in the basement and hang the pipe as suggested. Install cleanouts as presented below. The 4" should have a cleanout cover.

To install the 4"x2"wye I can think of a couple ways to do it... we can discuss later.

In terms of the laundry sink I can also think of a couple options... let's discuss that, too.

Back to you...
MARK

Awesome diagram Mark! There are some things there I wouldn't have thought of, very helpful.

At the end where you included the 4"x2" wye, can I have another branch off that to drain my washer into? Is there any specific way it should be done to maximize it's effectiveness in the absence of a tub?

Thanks again!

Hi again...

No problem... First thing will be to add a vent upstairs and send it downstairs for the new washing machine... see diagram. You will only need an 1.5" vent for the washing machine.

The washing machine vent needs to connect into the vent at a minimum of 42" off the finish floor on the first floor just in case the kitchen sink should back up and force the waste down the vent pipe. By tying the vent 6 inches above the flood level of the kitchen sink (42") the sink would overflow the countertop before entering the washing machine vent.

In the basement you would connect another 4"x2" wye or sanitary tee fitting below the 4"x2" fitting for the kitchen sink and then connect the 1.5" vent and the 2" PTRAP into the new fitting. The standpipe out of the trap should be 30" and it should be hung properly.

Let me know if all makes sense...

MARK

I am having some trouble connecting the PVC 4x2 wye to the existing cast iron. I tried a 4x4 donut and a 4" flexible coupling and neither seemed to be the right size.

http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/8771/connectionm.jpg

There is no easy way to slip anything over the lip due to the other pipe right next to this one so I assume I need to use something like a donut... I would appreciate any thoughts!

Go to a local plumbing supply store and see if they sell extra heavy (XH) donuts and service weight (SV) donuts... most likely you need the extra heavy donut. You would also want to pick up some plumber's soap to grease the donut and the pipe joint after the donut is installed.

Otherwise, you could also pick up some OAKUM and a can of SOIL SEAL... see image below (all available at the plumbing supply store or home depot). Here, you would install the PVC pipe and then wrap and pack the oakum into the fitting and around the pipe to a point that leaves about 1.5" at the top of the fitting. Then you would pack the soil seal into the space and let it dry... this works very well in these cases. Read the instructions on the can if you do this.

See images below.



Back to you...

MARK

Thanks for the quick response Mark, but on closer inspection I don't think either of those options will work.

http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/3766/image2dzs.jpg

The inside is actually threaded, which seems to rule out the oakum solution. The pipe going up next to it does seem like the type that would accept that... but as you can see from the next picture, this one is a bit smaller.

http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/6803/image4tq.jpg

Moving up to an XH version of the 4x4 donut seems like it would be moving the opposite direction I want to go, since the current SV one doesn't come close to fitting... Is the XH actually narrower? I retook my measurements and found the inside diameter to be more like 3.75" instead of the 3.5" I put on my last picture, including the threading... I couldn't get a good measure past that on the inside.

I went to Lowe's and looked for any male adapters that might fit the threads but nothing was the right size. Random 4" pieces were all too large, 3" all too small. I did find a 3x3 donut that seemed like it might be a close fit.

http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/5213/image6k.jpg

It went in with a little bit of effort, but since it's main obstacle is the threading, it doesn't seem like it would be a very tight seal. Maybe an XH version of the 3x3? Now that I realize it has the threaded lip I'm worried a donut won't work at all.

So in light of this, any other ideas?

*OUCH*

Go to a local plumbing supply store and see if they have a threaded brass plug that will fit that cleanout thread.

You will also want to pick up:

(1) 4"x2" cast iron no hub wye fitting

(2) 4" 4 band no-hub clamps

(1) 2" no-hub x 2" pvc adapter

(1) 2" no hub clamp (4 band is best)

(2) lennox diamnod sawzall blades or graphite blades.

Looks like you're going to need use a sawzall to cut a cast iron wye fitting into the horizontal cast iron pipe.

This is a bit involved but not really tough... just detailed in the steps needed. I'm off to play with my kid for tonight and will be back on early AM. Let me know when you've read this and let me know what you think. I'm glad to describe the steps needed to make this job go smoothly and most importantly... SAFE!

Back to you...

MARK

Ouch indeed, that sounds a little more involved than I was hoping. I'm not comfortable making such an invasive change, since it's probably big bucks if something goes wrong. Thanks for the help on this though, I guess I'll have to find a local plumber to either fix the drain I'm trying to bypass or make the wye in the cast iron.

Now now... don't go quittin' on me now... :)

With my help you might be surprised at how easy this really is. If you think you may want to try let me know and we can discuss the details involved. Once you hear the details you may find you'll actually have fun doing the work!

Let me know... O.K?