Ok, here's my spiel. I have a 91 Honda Accord that hasn't run in close to a month. Right before it stopped completely it would crank forever before it would finally catch and start. While driving down the street one day it just cut off. I shifted into neutral, turned the key and it fired right back up (after the typical long crank of course!) and ran fine for the rest of the day. The next day I took off from the house, got about 6 blocks away, and it cut off again and hasn't started since. I have done tons of research, including here on this forum, and have started the process of elimination. I started by changing the basic stuff, spark plugs and cap and rotor. Nothing. Then I moved on to the ignition components. I did these one at a time to try and keep costs down. New coil... didn't work. New ignitor... didn't work. New distributor (yes it's an aftermarket. New, not refurb. but still an aftermarket.)... didn't work. Before I started on the ignition parts I had checked the codes and had been getting codes 4, 8, and 15, which through researching, it was always suggested to replace the distributor. After replacing the distributor I cleared the codes to see if they would come back, which they don't. Now all that happens when I jump the wire is the check engine light comes on and stays on (which I read somewhere signifys a bad ECU. Any truth to that?) Everything else seems to check out fine. When attempting (emphasis on ATTEMPTING!! ) to start, the check engine light comes on for the normal 2 seconds and goes off, I can hear the fuel pump whirr, and after several tries I can definitely smell fuel under the hood, and the main relay clicks (although I've read somewhere that you should hear 2 or 3 clicks, I can only hear 1.) I have been checking the spark throughout the whole process and it has definitely gotten better since the new ignition parts, but I'm still not positive it is where it should be. Is there anything else I should consider? Main relay, ignition switch, ECU, etc. Any suggestions and advice will be greatly appreciated... even if it's to push it off the nearest cliff!! LOL. Thank you in advance.

Bad distributor housing, presuming all the under dash and under hood fuses are good.

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Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey

Bad distributor housing, presuming all the under dash and under hood fuses are good.

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I've checked the fuses said to be associated with the ignition system and they all check out good. I was thinking of just checking every last on of them just to make sure I'm not over looking anything or nothing is rewired. Does it make a difference if the housing is an OEM Remanufactured? Or does it have to be brand new from the dealer, which costs about 5 times as much! Thanks for your quick response. I'll keep you posted.

It makes a big difference. Well over 50% of new aftermarket distributors, at AMHD, have not worked. Of those that do work, many don't work for long. Search for a deal on a Honda genuine distributor housing and install an aftermarket ICM and coil, to keep the expense down.

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Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey

It makes a big difference. Well over 50% of new aftermarket distributors, at AMHD, have not worked. Of those that do work, many don't work for long. Search for a deal on a Honda genuine distributor housing and install an aftermarket ICM and coil, to keep the expense down.

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Sorry, but I thought "OEM" was genuine equipment from the dealer? If so, I've found an OEM for a decent price, it's just remanufactured.

Personally, I wouldn't trust it. These are very problematic components. My advice is to shop online for the best price you can find for a Honda Genuine distributor housing.

Well I realize it's been well over a month since this post was active, but after finally scrapping up some spaare money, and waiting for delivery, I finally got a genuine Honda distributor housing and guess what... still won't start! I'm really not sure what else it could be and I'm about tired of dumping money into it only for it to sit in the driveway and not work. Any other possible causes for this given the diagnosis up top?

Does the Check Engine Light come on and go off after two seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II)? During this 2 second interval, do you hear the fuel pump run?

Perform tests, in Sections 1 and 2, below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...les-46563.html

Yes and yes.

. Test all under dash and under hood fuses with a test light or multimeter.

. Check for codes.

. Clean the main ECM ground, located on the thermostat housing.

. Test for power to the distributor.

Did you install your new aftermarket Ignition Control Module and coil in the Honda distributor housing? If so, your spark should be awesome.

Do you have confidence that your ignition switch is good? It may work in Position II but there might be wear or pitting that prevents the car from starting, when it's turned to START. You might want to check the ignition switch out.

My gut is that the car is extremely close to "running like a top." Since the CEL, ECM, and fuel system works properly, the problem should be associated with the distributor (which we know should be fine). Did you install the rotor and make sure everything is hooked up properly?

My daughter has a 1991 Honda Accord, and she drove it home and the next time that she went to start it, and she got a crank but no start. I tried the main relay- no results. Then I checked the timing- no results. The car had fuel pressure, and spark. I realized the spark was not hot, which left the scenario to replace the distributor cap and rotor button. Sometimes it could be the ingnitor in the distributor, but I chose to try the rotor button with distributor cap. It was successful and now her car is runnning again. If the rotor button and distributor cap didn't solve the problem, the next step would be to replace the distributor due to the ignitor not working. I hope this is helpful to you.

My 1991 honda accord would not start, but had fuel pressure and spark. After trying the main relay, and checked the timing, both were working properly therfore, not being the problem. I was left with the possible scenario of it being the distributor cap and rotor button. I replaced them and it fixed the problem. Now the car is running again. If this doesn't work for you, you may try the whole distributor, because it has the ignitor in it. I hope this helps you.