I have a Carrier Weathermaker HE gas furnace. The motor was making a high speed rubbing sound at times, it would stop or start the noise when I pressed gently on the housing one way or the other.

The repairman also discovered that the black plastic fan wheel also had a crack running from the center of the wheel but I don't think the fanblade portion is cracked.

The motor replacement is to cost me about $400 and a new fan wheel assembly is another $164.

Assuming I need the new motor at this point, do I really need to replace the fan wheel, what is the likelihood the crack will further damage the system if I just replace the moror and keep the existing fan wheel assembly? Thanks.

Ed in NJ

Replace both but those prices are out of site.

I don't know for sure, but it seems like you would just need to replace the fan blade instead of the motor. If it only does it at high speed, maybe the crack causes the fan blade to scrape against the housing and that's what you hear. I don't know why the motor would be bad. It could also just be mounted a little crooked, your repairman shouldve been able to center it in the housing so it doesn't rub anymore.

If that's not what was making the sound, maybe it was the motor bearings which can sometimes be oiled.

I'd ask your repairman exactly why the motor needs replaced because I'm skeptical, and he might just be trying to make a little extra money. Make him explain himself good.

On the other hand, he could be a smart guy and a great tech and knows something we don't, in which he'll have no problem explaining to you what's wrong with it.

Well, first he did replace the fan wheel and the noise still occurred on startup or when he pressed on the housing a bit, it was the same noise so it was not the fan.

As to his explanation on the motor, he didn't really have one. I asked if it was something that can be repaired rather than replaced, and he said the motor is copper wire coils inside and not something you can open and repair. He might also have mentioned the bearings as something that may be going. He said it may continue to operate, but break in a few weeks.

When the noise occurs, I can stop/restart the noise by pressing the housing to the left or right, which makes me think your comment about it not being centered could be close to the fact.

More details: the cracked wheel is an inducer wheel 5.6 dia. 1.55" width 5/16" bore ROT: CW Hub End.

I held this part and it seems awfully simple for a price of $202.35 If we think of the wheel as a car wheel, the crack is on the "hubcap" from the center out to the side. It's not cracked on the actual fan part but I don't know why it cracked or if the crack could unbalance it as it spins? In any event the noise occurred with a new fan wheel in place and no crack.

The motor is listed as #317-252-753 and they want $386.00

Im not sure what to do but really appreciate the input I am receiving here.

Ed

Usually an entire assembly is also available for your unit. It includes all the parts already assembled so it is just bolt on. You may try to locate on of those since the noise might be from the old housing also.

Post Exact model number and all info on factory furnace tag then we can try to see what is available

OK Im on the way to the basement to get the furnace details. I found the wheel here for under $50

http://www.amazon.com/Carrier-Bryant-LA11ZD058-Inducer-Blower/dp/B000W4OJR4

Although I have to say I would expect some markup from the repair co. and they will install it (although I dod pay $89 service fee for this visit). I'm very interested in your input. BRB.

OK and thanks again for all the help!

First, now that I look at the setup of the motor in front of the fan wheel housing, and I see that I can stop the noise (and it stays stopped) by pressing the motor housing to the right, it seems as though the noise is caused maybe not in the motor but in the area of the shaft from the motor to the fan perhaps the assembly is just off center and needs adjustment? I def can be wrong.

Carrier furnace Model: 58SXC100-JG

Series 100

Serial no. 2293A05640

Input 110,000

Installed 1993 (?)

Motor: Magnetek Series 19EA 70656R

Model: JA1P084N

15 V 60 Hz 1.75 Amp 3300 rpm .050 hp


So I paid $89 for this service visit, I will owe $588 to install the new motor and wheel

Should I go elsewhere to get a lower price,do I even need a new motor? Im not sure I want to install this thing myself but Im open to all suggestions. Thanks!

Ed

Eye ball this stuff

Carrier inducer fan, Business Industrial, Home Garden. Great deals on eBay!

If you have a camera post some pictures of the stuff you need.

Well I have found both the motor and fan on Amazon, total cost $125. But can I replace these things myself, should I pay $588 to have a professional install them? And then, it may be the fan wheel housing so do I even need a new motor?

Here is the fan: http://www.amazon.com/Carrier-Bryant-LA11ZD058-Inducer-Blower/dp/B000W4OJR4

Here is the motor: http://www.amazon.com/HC27UE120-P251-2307-JA1P053N-AO-Smith/dp/B000NNCQHE/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

Actually the replacement is just a manual/mechanical operation with the attachment of the wires so it is kind of a NO brainer. I feel that you should be able to take care of that BUT I also hope this cures the noise problem.

Check in and out play of mtr. As well as up and down play.

Yes, answering both HVAC1000and Johnair77, I do know the noise can be induced or stopped by pushing the motor to the side.

I also wonder if the replacements will resolve the noise. I'm sure th efan alone does not cause the noise, because the noise remained w a new fan in place.

I'm not sure a new motor will do it either, it sounds more like the noise surrounds the shaft that goes from the motor to the fan. I know the shaft is part of the motor, but if the motor and shaft are sound, the problem is surrounding them, or caused by their orientation.

From discussion here, Ive at least decided that the repairman should have enough knowledge of these parts to come up wth a theory of the cause, not just assume a new fan was needed, followed now by a new motor. Seems to me he should have encountered similar situations and had an unerstanding of finding the actual cause.

Should I have someone else look at it of course they will charge me again for the visit.

That's always an option, shopping around for the best price for an install. But if you found the correct motor and fan yourself, and the model numbers match up, I'd say buy the parts and just pay a tech to install them. The company will definitely mark up prices and it will save you money.

Something to consider, if you find an hvac company that employs NATE certified technicians (theyll advertise that they do, stands for north american technical excellence), they may charge a little more for their services but the technicians are the best of the best. You could rest assured that they know exactly what the problem is and you wouldn't have reason to doubt.

First, I want to thank everyone for all the advice. I'm going to try and posta photo of my motor for your amusement and possible thoughts. If I figure out the best way to do that.

I've pretty much decided I will not pay $600 to have these 2 parts installed which total in cost $125. The motor is $75 at Amazon, and because we still had the noise with a new fan wheel in, I am going to start with a new motor. I think I can remove and replace that myself.

The fan wheel looks a bit trickier because it's inside a housing behind the motor, but the part itself is very simple and if I just have to open that casing I can do that too.

In answer to the suggestion that I test the up/down, in/out of the motor mounting, I see that it "floats" a bit on the rubber mounting washers and the noise can be induced by a shove to the left, and stops with a tap to the right. So I'm still wondering is replacing the motor the issue? Or is it just the alignment or some part surrounding the motor shaft that goes into the fan?

I called a NATE authorized service place and they wanted $100 for a service call, so that would put me $189 down with no new parts or service yet, so I think I'll try the motor replacement.

OK if this works, here is the motor with the fan wheel housing behind it, maybe you folks can give your thoughts on how I will replace the motor and fan wheel, or on the cause of the noise which occurs on its own or when the motor is tapped toward the right.


<a href="http://s832.photobucket.com/albums/zz248/Williams1000/Furnace%20Motor/?action=view&current=DSCN0741.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/zz248/Williams1000/Furnace%20Motor/DSCN0741.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/DSCN0741.jpg

Well I don't think the first time worked so here is the url, I hope this results in an image!

Make sure you seal it all up properly after you take it apart and put it back together. It is simple mechanics so if you have the skills go for it and if not let it alone.

Is there anything especially tricky about removing and resealing that fan housing? I agree it looks pretty simple.

Nothing tricky to a mechanic. As mentioned before you will have to seal all items that are taken apart like the fan housing. I always use RED high quality RTV (silicone in a tube)