Has Briggs & Stratton had a problem with motors smoking? It smoked on start up and seemed to stop after the motor warmed up. I cleaned the crankcase breather and that didn't help. Now the motor smokes all the time and it's quite bad. The breather is fine and there is no restriction to the air filter housing. I noticed there is oil getting up in the air filter. A friend of mine has the same problem so I'm wondering if there is a fix for this. The obvious is a new CC breather but cleaning seems to be all that's needed. Any ideas?

Might need a ring job.

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Originally Posted by KUXJ

Might need a ring job.

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I tore down the motor and everything looks great. The cylinders still have some cross hatch visible. I was hoping to find a broken oil control ring but alls well. I did find one of the intake ports oily with the valve stem caked with burnt oil. I'm wondering if this is happening while the other cylinder is firing possibly forcing oil via crankcase pressure?? The CC breather is fine and there were no restrictions to the filter housing.

Gary

Hi,
It is too bad that I cannot point you to a B&S manual, but the breather is not a particularly cleanable or serviceable part. It can look fine, but one push on that phenolic disc that works it with the tip of your finger is generally enough to ruin it.
The only thing I ever do with them is visually examine them and shake them to see if they rattle, which they should do. If the disc does not rattle, it is bad. If it does, well you still do not know anything because you have checked only one failure mode.
Replace the breather and check for anyway that air may be entering the crankcase (that is why it blows oil past the rings, air pressure.)
Peace,
Clarke

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Originally Posted by crigby

Hi,
It is too bad that I cannot point you to a B&S manual, but the breather is not a particularly cleanable or serviceable part. It can look fine, but one push on that phenolic disc that works it with the tip of your finger is generally enough to ruin it.
The only thing I ever do with them is visually examine them and shake them to see if they rattle, which they should do. If the disc does not rattle, it is bad. If it does, well you still do not know anything because you have checked only one failure mode.
Replace the breather and check for anyway that air may be entering the crankcase (that is why it blows oil past the rings, air pressure.)
Peace,
Clarke

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Hi Clarke,
I've been reading up on this problem of smoking. Some people have found a blown head gasket. I've inspected mine very closely and didn't find any evidence of blow by at the fire ring area of the head gasket on either side of the gasket. Bad news for me because I've got to continue looking for a solution. The compression was at 120 psi on both cylinders before I tore it down and was taken on a cold engine after sitting a few months. I did clean the CC breather disc with solution and lightly blew it out and couldn't see any reason to condemn it. One side is fine and one side shows that it's been taking in oil via intake valve. I suspect the oposing cylinder is somehow the cause but still looking as to what it could be. Any more ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks so much.
Gary

Hi,
I would replace the breathers; compressed air is not their "friend."
I would also look at the intake valve stems to see if there are seals on them. These were often left off the 14 HP version as a cost-reduction. Usually the lack of them only shows with age or running the engine at lower RPMs under load. Then oil is often consumed.
Additionally, these engines want only good quality 30W oil and will consume about 4 times as much oil when a multi-grade oil is used.
Peace,
Clarke

Hi! Clarke,

Just for clarification:
Would that be a "good quality" non-detergent 30W oil?

Steve

Hi KUJX,
Non-detergent oil is now only used in hydraulic systems. It is the old Type SA oil; meaning it has no additives. 30W oils in current production do not have the same additive package as multi-grade oils. The detergent is used to draw away the products of combustion and break-in/wear away from the internal surfaces so that they are suspended and drained during an oil change.
Peace,
Clarke

And peace to you also.

Thank You

Steve

Quote:

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Originally Posted by crigby

Hi,
I would replace the breathers; compressed air is not their "friend."
I would also look at the intake valve stems to see if there are seals on them. These were often left off the 14 HP version as a cost-reduction. Usually the lack of them only shows with age or running the engine at lower RPMs under load. Then oil is often consumed.
Additionally, these engines want only good quality 30W oil and will consume about 4 times as much oil when a multi-grade oil is used.
Peace,
Clarke

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Hi Clarke,
Thanks so much for taking the time to help. Your willingness to pass along your knowledge is greatly appreciated. I haven't taken the heads apart yet but will certainly install a seal of some type when assembling. I am going to switch to a 30W oil and hopefully my issue will be solved. I did not use compressed air to blow the cleaner out of the CC breather so I'm thinking it's going to be okay. I can always change that part out afterwards if other attempts fail. I am heading off on vacation in a few days so won't get this done before hand. I think the sunshine will help me forget about things for awhile.

Thanks again.
Gary

Hi,
Picture attached with the seal being #868 and is part #393606.
The picture is deceiving as it is in the area with the valve springs and only on the intake valve.
Peace,
Clarke

Hi Clarke, I wish you lived closer to me so that we could have coffee together. You seem to have genuine caring behaviors. I decided to order rings to do the motor up right while it's apart. Thanks for your extra efforts to get seal #s to me. You must have ESP because I was looking to order some tonight. By the way, the valves did have seals on them but going to replace them while it's apart. My motto is what's worth doing is worth doing right.

Take care and thanks so much
God Bless.
Gary