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-   -   Silicone sealant around tub (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=432360)

  • Jan 6, 2010, 06:53 PM
    Just Dahlia
    2 Attachment(s)
    Silicone sealant around tub
    I am going to remove this caulk and put fresh. There is a large gap as shown in the pictures and there are indentations where the tile pieces connect.
    I'm thinking when I remove the old caulk I will leave some filler for the indentations and then when new is applied it will be smoother:confused:

    Any suggestions would be very appreciated:)

    Attachment 28077

    Attachment 28078

    The second is a little blurry, but hopefully you can see what I'm talking about.
  • Jan 6, 2010, 07:03 PM
    KISS

    Is that a sunken tub with cement around the tiles?

    The gap is WAY to big to caulk directly. I'm wondering if you can 1) remove the caulk, 2) put a 1/8 piece of wood or a form at the top of the tub to create a gap, 3) Make a concrete/thinset/something to fill the gap up until the form (hopefully it's the same stuff used in the original design) 4) Remove the forms before it totally dries, 5) caulk the resulting gap.

    We don't recommend Silicone. Use DAP Kwick Caulk.

    I hope other have a better idea.
  • Jan 6, 2010, 08:02 PM
    ballengerb1

    "The second is a little blurry, but hopefully you can see what I'm talking about" no, take another focused picture. Also step back another foot or two and shot from a higher angle, the white glare screws up the perspective
  • Jan 6, 2010, 08:27 PM
    Just Dahlia
    2 Attachment(s)
    Attachment 28079

    Attachment 28080

    Hopefully these are better.

    It's a jacuzzi tub in a bath area.
    No concrete, greenboard and tiles with sanded grout.
  • Jan 6, 2010, 08:37 PM
    Just Dahlia
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by KeepItSimpleStupid View Post
    Is that a sunken tub with cement around the tiles?

    The gap is WAY to big to caulk directly. I'm wondering if you can 1) remove the caulk, 2) put a 1/8 piece of wood or a form at the top of the tub to create a gap, 3) Make a concrete/thinset/something to fill the gap up until the form (hopefully it's the same stuff used in the original design) 4) Remove the forms before it totally dries, 5) caulk the resulting gap.

    We don't reccomend Silicone. Use DAP Kwick Caulk.

    I hope other have a better idea.

    After reading this a couple times, I understand now what you are talking about, that's a good idea. I am not ready to remove the existing caulk until the 13th, so I have plenty of time to get the stuff, unless you come up with a better idea from the other pictures. Thanks:)
  • Jan 6, 2010, 08:39 PM
    Just Dahlia
    " Use DAP Kwick Caulk."
    This is good for a tub/shower area?
  • Jan 6, 2010, 09:30 PM
    ballengerb1

    Pictures are much, much better, thanks. I agree but you guys are beatting up the name, DAP Kwik Seal Plus Kitchen and Bath Adhesive Caulk : HGTVPro.com This stuff has an additive that prevents mildew and mold. That is a poor original installation so its difficult yo fill such a large gap, maybe use a backer rod before the Kwik Seal.
  • Jan 6, 2010, 10:11 PM
    KISS

    I think you should think of this as a pool rather than a tub and maybe you could try some experimentation.

    The gap is too big and I don't know what was used on the joints. It looks like cement.

    Here is a company that deals with swimming pools and tile repair. Swimming Pool Tile Repair, Pool Coping repair, Pool Tile Cement and Grout

    Here they seem to recommend silicone.

    I'm wondering if you could buy some of their grout repair and experiment a bit.

    As part of the experimenting process, you could buy some release agent. Liquid Release Agent : Concrete Stamps | Concrete Tools |The Concrete Supply House

    I think I know the best thing to do, but you won't like it.

    Since you have an area about the size of a penney, get some tile, the same color blue or black tile and rent a water diamond saw and cut the pieces to fit.

    Yup, looks like a real pain, but I think it's the best option.

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