Problem with Lennox Elite Series... Burners will start but blower motor will not... can you cast any light on the subject...


Thanks signed... Cold Chicagoan

If you have a blower switch on your thermostat turn it from auto to On and see if the blower runs.

I am no expert but from viewing countless videos on line I would first check the ciruit breaker that is attached to the blower motor. I t will have two brown wires goint to it. If not that I bet it is your control board that needs replacing. I ordered mine through EBay and got it in three days , installed it myself in about 45 minutes and my furnace works great. Cost was $150.

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Originally Posted by lakehouse104

I am no expert but from viewing countless videos on line I would first check the ciruit breaker that is attached to the blower motor. I t will have two brown wires goint to it. If not that I bet it is your control board that needs replacing. I ordered mine thru EBay and got it in three days , installed it myself in about 45 minutes and my furnace works great. Cost was $150.

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https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/heatin...ml#post2250363

For sure.

Lennox Elite Series G23Q3/4-100-2 s/n 5896H 12693. Intermittent Operation. Found circuit board short to metal enclocure.
Came home to a cold house. The furnace would not turn on. I cycled the main power switch to the furnace, and it came on but quit after appx 10 sec. I recycled the power again and nothing. I removed the cover to the controller board circuit and smelled a burnt electrical smell. I recycled the power again and observed a electrical spark from under the middle relay. I removed the circuit board and found that one of the relay termnals protruding through the circuit board at its solder joint was shorting against the back of the metal enclosure and had produced an electrical arc spot on the metal
Enclosure where the contact was being made. Upon inspection of the circuit board it was found that the arcing had melted the circuit trace on the circuit board, and the relay termial was no longer soldered to the circuit board. Thus creating the no op condition. Nothing in the enclosure appeared bent or disfigured, nor was the circuit board wharped, all things that could lead to an circuit board to metal contact condition. I can only surmise that the design is not robust enough to mitigate this problem. To fix it, I bent the circuit board trace back in place, and soldered the relay terminal to it. Before putting it back together, I pounded out the back of the enclosure to gain some clearance and put a full width piece of insulation tape on the inside of the enclosure box between the circuit board and the metal box. Fixed for now. JEESH, I Wonder how many of these are out there.