Where to find the model number on my Honeywell Synchron zone valve. I think the Powerhead and/or motor has gone bad.

I had no heat in my master BR this morning and after verifying the Thermastat was kicking in I went down and tried to check the valves. This is just 1 zone out of 5 (3 other living spaces + hot water). Everything else works fine. I switched (with a little effort) the valve lever to manual and finally got some heat to the master BR. Now I want to fix this so I do not need to leave it in the manual on position.

When I take the cover of the front the I see the round head that says Synchron printed on it but I cannot easiily find the model number. I do see some stuff printed on the outside diameter but this is nearly impossibe to read where it is.

I have a slight suspicion that this valve has been replaced before. I would like to just stick with a an easy solution and would prefer to keep using Honeywell parts for now. The whole boiler and possibly the zone configurations may get replaced/reconfigued within a years time so I am not looking for a major upgrade right now. I figured that if I could just get the model number I could go get and an exact replacement (or the proper current susbstituion) for it.

Inside the cover or elsewhere on the valve it is marked. Honeywell did make a change to there valves a long while back and some of the older ones need an adapter kit to just replace the valve guts and motor. If the motor just needs to be replaced see below.

2 HONEYWELL 24V Electric Zone Valve Motors - eBay (item 360215214181 end time Dec-13-09 09:49:11 PST)

HONEYWELL 802360JA 24V SEALED ZONE VALVE MOTOR - eBay (item 120477140649 end time Jan-03-10 03:36:04 PST)

Thanks HVAC1000.

I do not see anything inside the cover except a simple diagram. I took some time and pulled off the covers off all the other zone valves. Three of them did not have any type of model number and the other two were V8043E1012. They all say Honeywell and have Synchron on the inside and they all look basically the same.

I assume that even if the 3 non-identified were close to exact replacements, then they probably still take the same motor.

I assume that even if the 3 non-identified were close to exact replacements, then they probably still take the same motor.

I never assume but in this case I believe you are correct. The motors are cheap on Ebay but I believe Grainger and other supply houses also sell them. One item to check for on the little 24 volt motors is the gear on the shaft. Many times the little gear will come loose and the motor will run but will not open the valve. If you run into that situation many times you can solder or press it on tighter to make it work. This is mentioned just for your future info.

Also those small motors are also available in 120 and other Volt versions. While rare always make sure it is the 24 volt one you are ordering if your system is 24 volts.

Here is a link to a downloadable info sheet on you type of valve. This covers many versions but always look at the model number you have for accurate info.

http://customer.honeywell.com/techli...0s/60-2133.pdf

Thanks again HVAC1000.

With the lever in the manual 'on' position all day yesterday, the master BR got pretty warm (74F). I figured I would switch the zone valve lever back to 'Auto' and guessed it would close. Well the base boards were still warm/hot in the morning even in the 'auto' and the room was at 73F even though the thermastat was set to 64F.

My guess is that the physical zone valve itself (not just the motor) is no good and will need to be replaced. I will probably just go get a V8043E1012 near to exact replacement as the next logical step.

Yes you can in most cases just replace the guts including the shut off ball assembly and you should not have to solder in a new valve housing that way. Bleed to boiler down to prevent a gusher. LOL Usually 4 screws is all it takes. There should be instructions in the above link I posted if not let me know.