I've read a few Q & A about struvite crystals and just about every informational website... but need some specific to my situation info.
My male cat has always seemed to have litter box issues. About a month ago I thought he was severely constipated... took him to the vet. Turns out his baldder was full... had to do the X-ray/urinalysis/ anesthesia/remove crystals then IV/ catheter thing for three days. I took him home. It took hm about a week to feel better. I had him on Purina UR Wet food. (Prescription)... But on the 13th day, I noticed him straining to urinate. Took him back to the vet, who had to repeat the entire process. Kept him for 4 days to get all the crstals to pass. (IV to catheter) Vet said he saw no crystals after day one. But kept him on IV / catheter to be sure. Anyway, he's been home now for 2 days, and is straining again. He is so stressed out and so am I... I need a cure. At this point anything, I'm sad to see him so unlike himself, not playing or wanting to eat like he used to. Also, the vet told me about the surgury, but at this point I'm almost at $1000 in vet bills... plus it sounds a little inhumane. Anyway, I now have been feeding him (along with the above) Purina UR - ST/OX dry. AND giving him a IV injection into his back to keep him hydrated (Once a day.) I read other posts you guys put up... about some SD?? That works to use first 30 days... or the carpone and UT strength or whatever from the natural store... and hairball formula?? For crystals?? Any suggestions on these?

I just want a resolution that will help long term. Does any food really work, anything?? Has anybody had reoccurring crystals and found something that works??
Sorry for writing a book... PLease help. THANKS!!

Please look into natural foods, healing and chinese medicine. Our vet puts every cat with URI issues on something called Eight Righteous. Raw diet can make a huge improvement. Go to Shirley's wellness café for for information. At this point traditional medicine has failed so what do you have do lose? Your cat is miserable and all this inflammation of the bladder can cause worse more severe issues long term.

Hey Doggie Poopie.
Thanks so much for your help. I went to Shirley's wellness café. I didn't see anything about Eight Righteous?? However, I did read about the raw/natural diets with supplements. Some of it was kind of hard to understand... But one thing it said was to give vitamin C. I asked the vet yesterday. He said not to give it to him. (It can make him too acidic, and cure these crystals and cause the other crystals) But I gave it to him anyway, in a very small dose. He is still straining to go, but he IS going much more than before. (Thanks GOD and Doggie Poopie!)
Does anybody else have any opinions about carpone?? or specifics at the natural food store. Thanks.

Of course you should always defer back to your own veterinarian, so if they say no Vit. C I wouldn't.
The eight righteous is a Chinese herbal only a vet practicing Traditional Chinese Veterinary Medicine would use. Sorry I was more clear on that.
Depending on why your cat has Crystals will depend on which way you will want the PH level to go. I do know feeding the best diet does prevent many issues brought on by commercial diets. This time of year we have lots of cats with this problem. Matter of fact gave fluids to a cat today for the owner and sent discharged another after staying over night in hospital. It is called Enterance of Wind.

Also, there is now studies that show a link between over vaccinating for the Distemper and CRF and/or other kidney problems.

I would encourage you to follow your vets recommendations, and get your cat on a better diet. Then read, read, read! Here's another website for you to ponder. http://www.holisticat.com/uti_arch1.html

Also just for giggles here is the TCVM website http://www.tcvmherbal.com/ You can find the closest TCVM vet to you also on it.

Pet Food Shopping Checklist

The most reputable manufacturers of “superpremium” and “natural” foods agree with holistic veterinarians and other experts that the very best diet for your animal companion is one that you make yourself. A homemade diet, carefully balanced nutritionally and using organic foods, is closest to what Mother Nature intended. However, many of us do not have the time or energy to do home cooking, especially for multiple animals or large dogs.

For those of us who rely, partially or entirely, on commercial foods for our animals, API has prepared a checklist to use in selecting a good-quality diet.

Our extensive research has revealed that the pet food industry is extremely secretive. Manufacturers will not disclose very much information about the sources of ingredients, how they are processed, their quality control standards, or, in some cases, even where the food is made. Because the forty-odd manufacturers we contacted failed to provide us with accurate information, this API checklist gives you, the consumer, the best chance of selecting the best foods among the choices available.

* When selecting a commercial food for your animal companion, make sure the label has an “AAFCO guarantee,” preferably one that references “feeding tests” or “feeding protocols” rather than Nutrient Profiles.
* Never buy a food containing “by-product meal” or “meat and bone meal.” These rendered products are the most inexpensive sources of animal protein. The contents and quality of these meals can vary tremendously from batch to batch, and are not a reliable source of nutrition for your animal.
* In general, avoid foods that rely on by-products as the sole source of animal protein. By-products consist of organs and parts either not desired, or condemned, for human consumption. An occasional can of by-product-based food may be okay, since, in the wild, carnivores do consume the whole prey including the organs, but these foods are not acceptable as a steady diet.
* Look for a named meat or meal (“lamb” or “chicken meal,” for example, instead of the generic term “meat”) as the first ingredient.
* Avoid generic or store brands. These may be repackaged rejects from the big manufacturers, and generally contain cheaper — and consequently poorer quality — ingredients.
* Unless specifically recommended by your veterinarian, avoid “light,” “senior,” “special formula,” or “hairball formula” foods. These foods may contain acidifying agents, excessive fiber, or inadequate fats that can result in skin, coat and other problems.
* In general, select brands promoted to be “natural.” While they are not perfect, they may be better than most. Several brands are now preserved with Vitamins C and E instead of chemical preservatives (such as BHA, BHT, ethoxyquin and propyl gallate). While synthetic preservatives may still be present, the amounts will be less.
* Check the expiration date to ensure freshness.
* When you open a bag of dry food, give it a sniff — if there is any rancid odor at all, return it immediately for an exchange or refund.
* Store dry pet food in a sealed non-porous container (a large popcorn tin is ideal) in a cool, dry place. Canned food is best removed from the can and refrigerated in a glass or ceramic container.

Guidelines for Feeding Your Animal Companion

* Change brands or flavors of dry food every three to four months to avoid deficiencies or excesses of ingredients which may be problematic for your animal.
* When changing dry foods, mix 1/4 of the new food with 3/4 of the old food, and increase the new food a little each day. Some finicky animals may need a more gradual change over two or more weeks. Never let a cat skip more than one or two meals; return to the old food if necessary.
* With any new food or supplement, watch for subtle changes in your dog’s skin and coat, appetite, energy level, mood, itchiness, discharges or odors, body weight, and the size and consistency of stool. If negative changes occur, try a different food. If the change persists, consult your veterinarian.
* If your animal companion is on a prescription diet, check with your veterinarian periodically (at least every 6 months) to make sure the diet is still correct. Many conditions resolve over time, and a diet that was needed for a younger animal may be inappropriate when she is older.
* It is usually preferable to feed one or two meals per day rather than leaving food out all the time. However, some medical conditions require more frequent feeding. Check with your veterinarian about recommendations for your animals.
* Feed some canned food, which generally contains more animal protein and less grain than dry foods. Plain dry food does not clean the teeth and is not an essential for either cats or dogs. Cats in particular need at least 50% of their diet in the form of wet food to reduce the workload on the kidneys and keep the urine dilute. Cats with a history of bladder or kidney disease should not be fed any dry food.
* Supplement all commercial pet foods with other foods, such as organic meats and steamed, puréed or finely grated vegetables (most cannot be very well digested by carnivores raw). Dogs may be supplemented with tofu and cooked grains; however, cats should receive minimal carbohydrates in the diet. (Plant products tend to raise urine pH and may predispose cats to urinary tract disease.) If you are supplementing more than 15-20% of the diet, however, you will need to consult one of the many available books or websites for information on balancing vitamins, minerals and other nutrients.
* Other helpful supplements that are especially important when feeding commercial food include probiotics such as acidophilus, digestive enzymes, and the antioxidant vitamins E (alpha tocopherol) and C (either Ester C, calcium ascorbate, or sodium ascorbate).
* Consider making at least some of your animal’s food at home. This lets you control the quality of the ingredients. There are many excellent books, articles, and websites available for more detailed guidelines on ingredients, proportions, and preparations. Even one or two home-made meals a week will be a significant improvement over feeding solely commercial pet foods.

Your veterinarian only sees your companion once a year. Since you are with her every day, it is essential that you monitor her general health and how she is responding to the food she’s eating. Changes in appetite, coat quality, weight, stool, urine, or water consumption may signal a problem with the food, or a more serious medical problem. Report these or any other unusual changes or behaviors to your veterinarian.

I have four year old male that blocked twice three years ago and just again a few days ago. The first time was during the San Diego fires so no vets were open and he had to go to the pet ER. That one cost $2000. Then two weeks later he blocked again on the food that was supposed to prevent the crystals. That time he went to the vet - chi ching $750. The most recent about was down to $400. I love my cat so I will pay whatever it takes but I also love him enough to want to prevent this, so read on.

After the second about I stopped with ALL dry food. It's like gruel for male cats susceptible to blocking. No problem for three years. I also (IMPORTANT) sprinkled about a third of a capsule of dandelion root powder in his food and he has been fine.

A couple of weeks ago I switched him to a food called TIKI and this recent blockage happened. The ash content was more than twice as high as what I was giving him before and I hadn't given him dandelion root powder for months, so I'm suspecting this did it.

No more Tiki and back to the dandelion. Try this. The dandelion root was recommended by a seasoned vet too, by the way. DEFINITELY CUT OUT ALL DRY FOOD (forever!) it's crap for cats that plug easily.

UNfortunately if your cat does not get better with diet changes, the only other long term option is called a P.U. Surgery. Basically his urethra is too small and the solution is to make it so he is like a female with a larger opening, yes, at first, it is painful and yes they need pain medication, but it is more painful and more costly for him to go through frequent bouts of FUTD and being bloked, if they get blocked for long enough, they can go into renal failure. Check with your veterinarian to see if they feel that this is a necessary option, I have seen a lot of success with this surgery. Also, keep in mind, the urinary PH also has a lot to do with his own natural body chemistry, and sometimes, diet just doesn't do the trick.
Hope this helps.
H

First off, STOP THE DRY FOOD! If you really knew what was in it you'd vomit! Commercial dry AND canned foods for our pets are so nutritionally deficit that it is inhumae to feed it to them for OUR convenience! And the vets who keep pushing these commercial foods, dry or canned are just now coming around! 30 years ago cats were healthier because they hunted, meaning they ate raw food instinctually for their own nutrition. Now that cats are indoors they don't hunt. Look up feline raw diets in the internet or visit Flying Basset website for A lot more info. Pat McKay has been very helpful.:)
I thought using Innova Evo (supposed to be the best thing next to raw-but it's not!) would help. My kitty's urine is too alkaline. I am swithcing to a raw diet (slowly introducing it toall 5 of my cats) along with the supplements. I had a cat for 18 years who suffered through several surgeries for crystals and blockages and I spent thousands of dollars, but we didn't have the internet then, now we do and knowledge is power! The vet is NOT always right! Until all the supplements come in that I've ordered I've put my kitty on Carpon, it can't hurt him and may help him until I can get the raw diet thing figured out. Increasing water intake helps but that's because the dry food swells in the stomach and dehydrates the cat! I have to fountains for my cats, but just increasing water intake aloen will not eliminate crystals.

Please look at these links:
~ WELCOME TO RAW FED CATS ~
RawFed.com Home Page
rawcat : Raw Cat

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jitterbug

I've read a few Q & A about struvite crystals and just about every informational website...but need some specific to my situation info.
My male cat has always seemed to have litter box issues. About a month ago I thought he was severly constipated...took him to the vet. Turns out his baldder was full...had to do the X-ray/urinalysis/ anesthesia/remove crystals then IV/ catheter thing for three days. I took him home. It took hm about a week to feel better. I had him on Purina UR Wet food. (Prescription)...But on the 13th day, I noticed him straining to urinate. Took him back to the vet, who had to repeat the entire process. Kept him for 4 days to get all the crstals to pass. (IV to catheter) Vet said he saw no crystals after day one. But kept him on IV / catheter to be sure. Anyway, he's been home now for 2 days, and is straining again. He is so stressed out and so am I...I need a cure. At this point anything, I'm sad to see him so unlike himself, not playing or wanting to eat like he used to. Also, the vet told me about the surgury, but at this point I'm almost at $1000 in vet bills...plus it sounds a little inhumane. Anyway, I now have been feeding him (along with the above) Purina UR - ST/OX dry. AND giving him a IV injection into his back to keep him hydrated (Once a day.) I read other posts you guys put up...about some SD??? that works to use first 30 days...or the carpone and UT strength or whatever from the natural store...and hairball formula??? for crystals??? Any suggestions on these?

I just want a resolution that will help long term. Does any food really work, anything??? Has anybody had reoccurring crystals and found something that works???
Sorry for writing a book... PLease help. THANKS!!!

---

Diet change and if worst case... P/U surgery if he is getting blocked

Also, dry food is not ideal for cats who have urinary problems. Waltham(royal canine) makes s/o and I have found that to work well.

Hi Jitterbug,

I know you posted this a long time ago--I hope your cat's condition has improved. I've had the same problem with my cat Zooey, and I wanted to pass along some thoughts. FLUTD is extraordinarily frustrating as there doesn't seem to be a fail-safe cure, but there are a variety of options that are worth exploring before committing to P/U surgery.

DoggiePoopie's notes about all natural food are absolutely correct. Read the ingredients on everything you feed your cat. Even food that purports to be organic may contain byproducts (e.g. Whole Foods 365 canned food). Don't feed your cats anything that you wouldn't feed to your children. All natural food is more expensive, yes, but it's well worth it.

Cut out dry food completely. There's no two ways about it. Cats with FLUTD need as much moisture as possible. When searching for an all natural canned food, check the moisture content. Standard moisture levels for canned food are 78%. You want food that has at least 83% moisture.

No fish. Cobalt mentioned Tiki. In theory Tiki is ideal--it is all natural--but fish contains high levels of magnesium and ash, which can raise the pH of the urine. You want your cat's urine to have a low pH (acidic). Acidic urine helps prevent bladder irritation and infection. (That's why the recommend that people drink cranberry juice when they develop UTIs.)

There is new line of all natural food called "Weruva." It's excellent. It's got good, sizeable pieces of meat. Cats might eat pâté (mine won't), but if you think about it: in the wild, cats eat chunks of meat. Weruva has a variety of flavors. Right now, I'm looking at the label on "Nine Liver," which contains chicken and chicken liver. The moisture content is 85%, it is 100% grain free, and the magnesium content is .011% (very low).

When you serve your cat wet food, add a splash or two of water.

We've been using an all-natural urine acidifier called "Berry Balance" made by Solid Gold. You just sprinkle a small pinch on the wet food, and mix it in. Berry Balance contains cranberry powder, ascorbic acid, and blueberry powder. It's about 18 dollars for a 3.5 ounce tub, but it will last a long time. Don't use too much, or you cat won't go near their food.

Also, consider giving your cat glucosamine ("Cosequin"). While there is no empirical evidence that suggests glucosamine works to prevent bladder inflammation, some folks swear by it. It has not negative long-term side effects, and it's worth a try. Either open the capsule and sprinkle it on top of the food, or mix it with a small amount of water and give it to your cat with an eye dropper.

Subcutaneous fluids are a pain in the , and my cat hates them, but they work. We administer fluids twice a week.

Buy a fountain bowl (the kind that filters the water). Cats love the sound of running water, it prevents the water from becoming stagnant, and encourages drinking. Petmate "Fresh Flow" is the best.

Our vet is encouraging us to try Purina prescription diet. I'm skeptical. It's a pate, which my cats won't eat; and I hate Purina. I think that all natural food is much better.

Make sure each cat in your house has his/her own litter box. Although it may not seem like it, your cat can become very stressed if he has to share a litter box. He feels like his territory is being invaded.

You may have tried all of these things, the problem may be entirely resolved, but I figured it was worth throwing my two cents in. Please contact me if you have any specific questions, or if you've come across any methods that have worked for you.

Yours,
ZG

I know this is late in coming but I had the same problem with a foundling male kitten my stepdaughter brought home. I noticed him straining, without producing, urine and licking himself a lot. It took me a day to pick up on his problem... blockage! I took him to the vets and they had him under before I signed the papers... a very dangerous situation. We were issued an incredibly expensive bag of S/D... but with three other healthy cats... how do you separate their feeding spots? We got this tip from an experienced horse and goat breeder... we have been feeding Jasper Purina Urinary care dry cat food and adding vinegar to the drinking water and he has not had one recurrence (enough to give it tang but not be oppressive-taste it on your finger. Something to consider when funding is scarce... and, as I said... it has worked like a charm!! He's a very happy and grateful cat... it's in his demeanor.

Geeesh. This is an old post but I hope somehow you see it. I'm not a vet. I just love animals. If you get this, check out royalcanin.us A friend of mine has 2 cats with this problem and their vet told them to give them URINARY SO 33. I know some people said not to give dry food but this is more of a moist/dry food.
It bothers me to see these cats only eat this same food day after day but it does work. (Sometimes my friend will give a few treats to the cats but not so sure that's a good idea or not.) Hope you get this and hope you're cat is still alive and well.

My cat has had a recent problem with struvite crystal blockages. After a $1,200 emergency vist, my vet put him on science diet k/d. I'm usually not a big science diet fan, but it seems to be working and I'm nervous about changing his food. I also sprinkle Pet Health OPC on his food. My vet thought this would be good because it has glucosamine (good for their bladder), and OPC's which help lower inflammation. He seems back to his usual self. It did take about 2wks after his hospitalization to be back to normal. You can find the Pet Health OPC at www.marketamerica.com/mikebecker

Thanks guys. I did get all of your posts. Jitterbug hasn't had a re-occurance since my post. He eats Purina (I know, I know) UR/ST/OX wet and dry. (when I give it dry, I make it like a soup... full of water) The vet did have him on cosequin for a year or more, and I tapered him off. I'd love to try another diet, but knock on wood... the Purina is working. So ill just count my blessings. He also always gets in to my other cats food. :-/ But it's a hair ball formula... So maybe there is some truth to that being OK for him. The good thing is now I know the signs, so if it ever happens again, I can get him help before its life threatening. Anyway, thanks for all your replies! :)