Ask Me Help Desk - 220 holigan lights---2 amps per

220 holigan lights---2 amps per

I am wiring 14 holigen lights in a town garage.They are compadable with 110/220/208/277... The service is 220 amps... They are pulse start-up.. I am using 12/3 armored wire... from panal- double pole/ 20 amp br. To double pole/20 amp switch, then to 1st light and so on... If the lights are going to run at 2 amps per light, this should be fine, I think. The legnth of run is 140 ft... I will have 2 runs of 7 lights.. Is this OK...
Also, I am running another circuit for flourecent lighting. There was a 30'' x 10 x 10 junction box in the upper corner of the ceiling, where I un installed lights before, the lines to the panal were cut in this box... another words... I have power going into this huge metel junction box, from the panal... there are no other loads on these lines... can I use this box as a junction box to run my lines for lights?

Town garage?? Are you authorized/licensed/qualified/insured to do this work??
Form the sound of your post I think we can rule out qualified.

What you have are not "halogen". They are some form of HID (high intensity discharge) light.
Halogens are NEVER multi-tap and are not "pulse-start".

If they are 240v (or 120, 208, 277, 480v) then you do not need 12/3. 12/2 is all you need or want. Using 12/3 is just a waste of wire.

Is your 200A service 120/240v or 120/208v?

Not sure what a Town Garage or sure about the lights, bu would like to say 14 Lights X 2 Amps is 28 Amps, need to know the draw per bulb and at what voltage. Are you using 2 circuits? I know it is split 2 sets of seven.
As mentioned 12/2 is needed for 120 or 240 volts, You would need a 12/3 if for 120 volts, sharing a neutral. At 120 volts, the amp will be higher.

Quote:

Originally Posted by stanfortyman

Town garage??? Are you authorized/licensed/qualified/insured to do this work???
Form the sound of your post I think we can rule out qualified.

What you have are not "halogen". They are some form of HID (high intensity discharge) light.
Halogens are NEVER multi-tap and are not "pulse-start".

If they are 240v (or 120, 208, 277, 480v) then you do not need 12/3. 12/2 is all you need or want. Using 12/3 is just a waste of wire.

Is your 200A service 120/240v or 120/208v?

OK,so I'm not an expert but I did go to tec. School for electrical but it was 5 years ago and the blade is dull, and I am asking so I wire them correctly... Everything is inspected before turning on power.I was under the impression there must be a nueral and a ground to these lights.I do understand that the nuetral is the ground.These are HID lights-400 watts per light, 2.0 amps at 220 volts.( don't know where I got holigen) The service is 120/240... I know to stay under 20percent of breker amperage... so I believe this is telling me I need to have 3 separate branches for these lights. 5 , 5 , and 4 , from 3 separate double pole 20 amp breakers? The panel is 140 ' ft away from the last light section and I believe for that particular section I should use 10 gage wirde because of the voltage drop over 100' ? Thank you for your time in helping me...

Quote:

Originally Posted by reeddean98

I was under the impression there must be a nueral and a ground to these lights.I do understand that the nuetral is the ground.

First off, the neutral is absolutely NOT the ground. They are two very different things.
120v and 277v have a neutral because they are line-to-neutral voltages.
208v, (230v) 240v, 480v do NOT have a neutral as they are line-to-line voltages.

140 feet is teetering just on the edge of needing to upsize from #12 to #10. Considering the load is spread across the 140' and not all on the far end I would not bother with #10.

You do have to keep to 80% of the circuit for this continuous load so this means 16 amps for a 20A circuit. If the lights are 2A each then you can seven each on two circuits.

Quote:

Originally Posted by stanfortyman

First off, the neutral is absolutely NOT the ground. They are two very different things.
120v and 277v have a neutral because they are line-to-neutral voltages.
208v, (230v) 240v, 480v do NOT have a neutral as they are line-to-line voltages.

140 feet is teetering just on the edge of needing to upsize from #12 to #10. Considering the load is spread across the 140' and not all on the far end I would not bother with #10.

You do have to keep to 80% of the circuit for this continuous load so this means 16 amps for a 20A circuit. If the lights are 2A each then you can seven each on two circuits.

You are extreamly knowledgeable and obviously know what you are talking about and I truly appreciate you answering my questions.I have done quite a bit of residentual wiring but what little bit I have learned at school is far forgotten when it comes to commercial application.You have been a fantastic help.
So, I will stick to the 12/2, use 2 separate branches... Also, I would like to thank you for explaining to me about the neutral and ground.I have some degree of difficulty undestanding it, but I do thank you for sharing your knowledge with me... you have been a trumendus help.

A quick note, the Neutral carries current, a ground handles a fault to ground and usually does not carry current.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stratmando

A quick note, the Neutral carries current, a ground handles a fault to ground and usually does not carry current.

I got it... You should be an instructer or a teacher... Your the best ! I live in upstate Ny, but I grew up in Pembroke Pines, Fla. Just outside of hollywood... Take care... Thanks again!