Aloha All!. 1st Post... Great site... lotta useful info...

I've planned on replacing my bath sink faucet, when I discovered that when shutting off the angle stops, they began to leak,not in all areas, but in only certain positions. Tried tightning the packing nut on several occasion with no + results.

Question though, before heading out to the hardware store. Is if I remove the stop angle and if the nut and sleeve are in useable condition would a New 1/4 turn ball replacement angle stop be compatible with a 15 year old Brass Craft standard angle stop sleeve and nut?

Or can I just replace the packing nut assembly on the Existing angle stop? Are Brass craft packing nut assembly's interchangeable with other brand assembly's?

Any infor regarding is greatly appreciated.

Mahalo,

Wayne

That new stop will include a new nut and compression ring which will likely not be needed. Once a compression ring is compressed you won't get it off the pipe, I am assuming copper tubing here. The new valve and old nut should be compatible

Aloha all:

Ballenger is correct in the fact that you should try to use the old compression nut and the ferrule over first... see if that works as it is always easiest.

If you fail to be successful in using the old compression nut and ferrule then you can purchase a compression nut/ferrule remover from a local plumbing supply store (see 1st image) or you can purchase a combination handle puller and nut and ferrule remover from home depot or similar store... see last image.

I would purchase the tool with the new shutoff and then try to use the old stuff. If successful, return the tool. If unsuccessful just insert the nut/ferrule removal head into the tool, insert into the end of the copper tubing, place puller knobs in back of the nut and turn the tools handle to slowly pull the nut and ferrule forward and off the copper tubing.

Let us know how you make out... O.K.?

MARK

Quote:

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Originally Posted by massplumber2008

Aloha all:

Ballenger is correct in the fact that you should try to use the old compression nut and the ferrule over first...see if that works as it is always easiest.

If you fail to be successful in using the old compression nut and ferrule then you can purchase a compression nut/ferrule remover from a local plumbing supply store (see 1st image) or you can purchase a combination handle puller and nut and ferrule remover from home depot or similar store...see last image.

I would purchase the tool with the new shutoff and then try to use the old stuff. If successful, return the tool. If unsuccessfull just insert the nut/ferrule removal head into the tool, insert into the end of the copper tubing, place puller knobs in back of the nut and turn the tools handle to slowly pull the nut and ferrule forward and off the copper tubing.

Let us know how you make out...O.K.??

MARK

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Appreciate your quick response's Ballenger and Mark, Yes I will try using the same sleeve and nut first using some Teflon dope around the ferulle, but... Correct me if I'm wrong but even if using the ferrule remover as you suggested, wouldn't the copper pipe in the area where the ferulle is located still leave a unusable/compressed depression when removing? Resulting in a questionalble future seal or is it better just to cut off the area behind the compression nut?. I do believe I've got some room to play with.

I think I'll be tackling this job when the other half is out all day "Black Friday" shopping... ughhhhhh.

Thanks guys

If you do have plenty of room to cut off the old ferrule then do that it will make it easier in the long run.

When I use the compression style I always use just a drop of Rector Seal on the new ferrule, stops lot of drips that are hard to stop by tightening the compression nut,

Hi Edgeman...

There are certainly times where someone has overtightened a nut and a ferrule enough to actually make an indent in the copper tubing... and yes, in this case you would be best to just cut in behind the indent and start fresh.

If the nut and ferrule have been tightened correctly then with luck you can just reuse them. Teflon tape and/or pipe dope are not usually recommended for compression fittings, but in repair work it can be helpful... use only as a last resort.

Finally, if there is enough copper tubing that you can just cut off the old compression nut and ferrule then that is not bad either!

Back to you...

MARK

POSTING AT SAME TIME AS YOU LETMETELLU.... ;)

Yes, I think I'm going to just cut if off... seems easier... Out of curiosity, what would be the bare minimum space needed from cut end to wall? Thanks

Bare minimum, including a flat chrome flange is 1.25".

Without a chrome flange to cover the hole in the wall you can get away with 3/4" to 7/8" of copper tubing showing.

Thanks again Mark... Ha.. I guess than I've got room to screw up a few times..

Thanks guys for everything!. I'll let you guys know how it went this commig weekend. Cross your fingers.

Happy Thanksgiving to all!!

Sorry... Forgot to ask 1 more question regarding cutting coper tubing... do I need to sand down to shine before installing new stops? If so how much/distance do need to sand from cut end.

Thanks again,

Wayne

Hi Wayne...

Cut the pipe with a mini. Tubing cutter (1st image) and then yeah, clean the end of the pipe of any burrs and give a quick shine to the copper tubing... DO NOT OVERCLEAN.

Install the compression nut and the ferrule, and if you want the best job use the pointed part on a larger tubing cutter (called a reamer... see image) and REAM the end of the tubing to full size.

Push the tubing with the nut and ferrule deep into the shutoff and use two pliers or wrenches to tighten all up. DO NOT overtighten here. Stop once all is tight and check... if a drip or more, tighten another 1/4 turn. Do NOT use teflon tape or pipe dope.

Have a great holiday!

MARK

Right back at yeah! Mahalo

Wayne

No sanding needed if you use a rotary tubing cutter. You should debur the inisde of the tube and then install your ferrel and the compression ring. Empire Mini Tubing Cutter