Ask Me Help Desk - Installing 200 amp disconnect switch below meter

I am about to have power connected to a house but have noticed the jacket on the service entrance cable is starting to fray. I was looking at the possibility of installing a disconnect switch below the meter and running new wire from the disconnect switch to the main panel.

Can I install a non fused disconnect switch and keep the current configuration of having a main breaker panel that is grounded or do I need to install a 200 amp fused disconnect switch which is grounded and replace the existing panel with a sub panel four wire type?

Thank you for your time.

Your plan sounds fine, installing a non-fused disconnect at the meter, and leaving the 3 wire feeder to the Main Panel, which assumes the Main Panel has the Main Service Disconnecting Means, AKA Main Breaker. and all grounding done at the Main Panel.

Thank you for your reply. Looking at non-fused disconnects the cost seems to be high, unless someone can recommend a reasonable option for a residential outdoor non-fused disconnect. I saw an installation an online that appears to be using a 200A main breaker enclosure (what looks to be Square D Model QOM2E2200NRB) and is installing it in between the meter and the main panel as a disconnect switch using 3 wires to the Main Breaker Panel and grounding at the Main Panel. This seems more cost effective as the enclosure can be purchased for about $150.00. The website picture I am referring can be viewed here: http://www.kc0qir.com/blog/gallery/1/P5030059.JPG . Whould this be OK, to have two 200A main breakers and have the bonding and grounding done at the existing main breaker panel inside?

Tk:

Make the above link clickable.
I want to ask a few related questions while I'm at it.

A: If using the first scenereo, non-fused disconnect outside and grounding/bonding in the main panel, does the neutral have to pass through the enclosure without being spliced?

B: When using the second scenereo, breaker outside would the ground bonding have to be done in the outside fused disconnect?

Correct me if I'm wrong:

The POCO has the right to seal that box?

The disconnects in both cases need to be SE rated?

According to NEC 230-46, Service-entrance conductors shall be permitted to be spliced or tapped by clamped or bolted connections. So I think it would be OK but the non-fused disconnect should only break the connection to the hot wires and the neutral would remain connected regardless?

I am not sure if the second scenario is up to code - although according to the website the installer passed rough-in inspection... although I wouldn't use his overall installation as a good example which is the main reason I am asking the question of whether the second scenero will pass muster.

I do not think the POCO would seal the box as I would see no reason for them to since it is after the meter, but it wouldn't be a great concerned if they want to seal it.

If I go the second scenario - I should be able to install a main breaker enclosure below the existing meter and connect the existing jacketed aluminium conductors to the enclosure and then run conduit from the enclosure to the panel location in the basement. I could then run (4) 2/0 copper Type UF cable conductors to the existing panel and have an extra conductor in the case that I would want to move the bonding point to the outside panel and add a new main lug panel with an insulated neutral bar?

Even if I go the whole route, I would like to know if the second scenario would work, If I can install a main beaker enclosure outside and use it as a disconnect and run copper from that to the main panel and keep the grounding/bonding point at the main panel?

Kiss, my answers are in red.

Quote:

Originally Posted by KeepItSimpleStupid

tk:

Make the above link clickable.

Do you mean you made it clickable? Works fine for me. The switch looks fine to me.

I want to ask a few related questions while I'm at it.

A: If using the first scenereo, non-fused disconnect outside and grounding/bonding in the main panel, does the neutral have to pass through the enclosure without being spliced?

No, the neutch does not need to be continuous, but DOES NOT get grounded. All grounding of the system can remain at the Main Panel.There may be a ground rod at the meter grounding the neutral in the meter, this is fine and should remain as is.

B: When using the second scenereo, breaker outside would the ground bonding have to be done in the outside fused disconnect?

No,The bonding jumper does not/ shall not need to be installed into the neutral lug/bar.

Correct me if I'm wrong:

The POCO has the right to seal that box?

Nope, after the meter, the owner has all rights.

The disconnects in both cases need to be SE rated?

Yes.

App, Since you are replacing the cable, you may use four wire cable and relocate the grounding from the panel out to the new disconnect. But, this will require insulating the neutral at the panel, and install a grounding bare for any bare or green equipment grounds. Metal piping in the home will still need to be "bonded" to the panel.

I wish for some good diagrams to show how systems need to be grounded. There are so many variables to try to remember to mention.

TK - thank you for clarifying.

I think I am going to go with the second scenario at this time.

I can purchase a 200 main breaker disconnect such as this Cutler Hammer item: http://www.hardwareandtools.com/invt/6075394
The description refers to is as both a main breaker panel or service disconnect and offers an optional grounding bar which would be required if using it as the ground location. This link shows a picture of the inside of the panel as well:
http://doitbest.com/Load+Center-Eaton+Corporation-model-RCC200SEBP-doitbest-sku-533462.dib
Home Depot lists it for $110 so it look like a low cost solution.

Just to confirm - I can install this below the meter which will be connect to the meter with the original aluminum SE cable with anti-oxidant compound. I will then exit the enclosure with 2" PVC conduit to the main panel and run (4) insulated 2/0 copper conductors. I can then 'cap' the extra conductor and use it in the future if I upgrade the interior panel and make the grounding point at the external enclosure. For now, the grounding will remain the same with ground rods to the interior panel (I think the water main is plastic, but I will confirm that and ground if it is metal) and if I make the grounding point at the external enclosure in the future I will have the additional conductor to isolate the neutral bar.

Tk:

Quote:

Do you mean you made it clickable?

Yep, that's what I meant. It looked like: http://www.kc0qir.com/blog/gallery/1/P5030059.JPG before I fixed it.

Sorry.