Hello - Thanks in advance for any advice. My plumbing experience is very minimal - I am beginning a floor plan for my basement project and had a couple questions regarding my roughed-in plumbing. I've attached a couple pics that hopefully come through.

(1) When I remove the cover for the black tub box, it has gravel in it and it doesn't seem to have any pipes leaving it underground - is this correct?

(2) Is this roughed in for a tub or shower? Can I do either?

(3) What is the layout of this bathroom? I think I understand the stand pipe and assume the toilet would be perpendicular to the two smaller pipes leaving the concrete (which would be located in the wall?) Which way would the tub/shower face - is it parallel with the two smaller pipes leaving the concrete?

Thanks again - this seems to be a great forum for help!

Hi AMation:

You are correct on the boxout in the ground... just gravel and no pipe coming out of the ground. There is, however, a pipe under the gravel. If it is a 2" pipe then it is for a shower, but can be reduced to 1.5" for a tub drain if you like. If it is an 1.5" pipe then it is intended for a tub. For a tub or shower you will need to add a PTRAP in the box so it lines up with the shower strainer or the tub waste and overflow assembly.

In terms of the layout... it is questionable as pipes are not laid out as most would do for future plumbing. First, the fittings on the 2" pipe are WAY too low... ;) Here, these fittings need to be cut out and the pipes need to extend up to about 42"-48" off the floor and then the fittings can be installed again. If you use couplings to extend the pipe you should be able to use the old fittings if you like.

Second, my best guess would be to connect the sink drain into the pipe with the 90 degree elbow on it. Here, you would connect a 2"x1.5" sanitary tee fitting at a height that will allow 1/4" pitch per foot of pipe and end up with a final drain height of about 18" to 20" to the center of the elbow for the sink off the finish floor. You would run the 1.5" pipe to the right of the toilet and stub out for the sink, for now. Later, you will install a PTRAP at the sink, but not until you are ready to set finish.

You will also want to install a TEST TEE fitting (also called a dandy cleanout... see image) at both 2" pipes just as they come out of the ground. These are just in case trhe drains should clog up in the future... code required in most areas.

Finally, you will need to plan on installing a TWIST And SET CLOSET FLANGE as the plumber forgot to wrap anything around the outside of the toilet pipe to keep the concrete away. The twist and set flange fits on the inside of the pipe.

Let us know what you think here...

MARK

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Thanks for the great info Mark! After reading your post I did some more investigating. I removed the cover to the tub box which was actually what looked like a cover screwed and caulked on to another cover that was broke (looks like someone's foot went though it - see pic). To my surprise the tub box was half full of water. I dug around with a screw driver to find the pipe you said would be there, it was - and covered with duct tape. When I removed the tape the water started draining. Trouble is, it drained for a long, long time. Ejector pump went on several times and the water level in the tub box went down very slowly. Is this water beneath my slab? Is this something I should be concerned about? My house was built in 2004 and we have seen our fair share of heavy rain (Chicago/Illinois area). Never have had an issue with water in the basement. Thanks in advance again for your help! -Craig

Hi Craig...

Sounds like you have a high water table in your area is all... ;) I wouldn't worry about the water again as long as you have a good sump pump system in place. Further, with such a high water table, if you are planning on finishing this entire basement I would suggest that you not only have the one sump pump, but you may also want to look into a BACK UP sump pump... usually battery operated (marine battery). Combined, these two pumps can guarantee that if one pump fails or there is a power outage you should remain protected pretty well... ;) Check them out at www.zoeller.com

I drew out the layout I think you will end up with here... check it out... :) Don't forget to move the pipes up as mentioned in post#2.

FYI... you want to lay the stud wall out so you have about 12" from the face of the rough stud wall to the center of that toilet drain. This will allow you to purchase almost any toilet as almost all toilets are made in a 12" rough (special/costly order for different measures). Some people suggest 12" from the finish wall, but in the end, experience almost always shows us that 12" from the rough stud wall ends with the best result!

Let me know if you have more questions as you go along.

MARK

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Thanks again Mark for the great advice. As soon as the forum allows me too, plenty of positive feedback heading your way :)

The diagram is excellent, exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for the link regarding the back up sump pump - local Home Depot etc.. Around here pushes Basement Watchdog - nice to have another option to consider.

I'm sure I'll be posting again soon as this project moves along - I feel better knowing that I have an excellent place to come for help. -Craig

Just taking a quick look at the pictures, I observed the vent for the tub and the vent for the toilet are connected, which is fine. In New Hampshire, the point of connection needs to be at least 6" above the highest fixture. The connection is pretty close to the top of the tub, and not 6" above it. It would fail a NH plumbing inspection, but should work fine.

Hi Neverguess...

Welcome to AMHD

I addressed the height of the vent in my first post, but note here that the vents would not need to connect 6" higher than the tub as indicated in your answer, but 6" above the lavatory sink... as you also kinda mentioned... ;)

See my first post. I even drew a picture showing the need to increase to about 42" off the finish floor.

Just wanted to be clear for future readers.

MARK