Hi - We Have A 1992 Honda Civic, Original Owners. A Few Weeks Ago While Driving The Car's Check Engine Light Came On Suddenly And Then Cut Off. Had To Have It Towed To A Car Dealership That Told Us It Would Be About 1200-1500 Dollars To Fix The Car, Because The Distributor And Ecu Was Bad. We Had The Car Towed Back To Our House, Simply Because We Couldn't Afford The Repairs, And My Husband Being A "handy Person" Decided He Would Fix It. We Purchased A Brand New Distributor, And It Was Installed Correctly, And Purchased A Used Ecu. The Car Started Briefly, Ran Very Rough, Then Cut Off. Hasn't Started Since. We Decided To Replace The Main Relay. Bought A Brand New Relay, With No Avail. We Have Checked Everything. The StarteR Was Bought About A Year Ago New And Was Replaced. The Motor Will Turn, But Just Not Start. Spark Plugs, Battery, Etc. Checked. We Are Desperate, And Are Actually Thinking About Getting Rid Of The Car - If It Will Be Too Much To Fix. Anyone Have Ideas? Thanks In Advance. ALSO we checked the "error codes" as mentioned in Haynes manual, and the check engine light just stays on, it doesn't blink with error codes. I have ordered a new MAP sensor, and was also wondering if the oxygen sensor would cause the car not to run? Also you can hear the fuel pump kick on, and smell gas - so we know it is getting fuel. And the timing belt is fine - because it is cranking. We know that it needs to be timed since we put on the new distributor, but my husband can't time it since it won't start

1. Don't get rid of the car--I specialize in the problem you are having with your Civic. I'm sure I can help you get it running, like many others before you, if you are responsive and will work with me.
2. Check all under-dash and under-hood fuses with a multimeter or test light. Pay special attention to the ACG (S) under-hood fuse (should be Fuse #24). Using a meter prevents replacing the fuse in the wrong slot, which is easy to do on under-dash fuses.
3. Since the Check Engine Light stays on, the problem is with the main relay, ACG (S) fuse, ECM, or ignition switch. It shouldn't be the main relay, since you said it is new, and ignition switch problems are not real common.
4. If all fuses are good, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector reference wire (+) and ground, when the ignition is turned to ON. When you look at the three sockets in the connector, the reference wire is the socket on the right. Make sure to press the black test lead firmly into the ECM's ground (G101) on the thermostat housing. If you don't get 5 volts, the ECM is probably bad.

Thanks For The Info - The Check Engine Light Only Stays On When The Testing Switch Is Jumped To See The Codes, But I Will Check The Fuses Like You Said And Will Definitely Get Back With A Response. Thanks

Let's back up. Remove the jumper wire from the 2P Service Check Connector. Does the Check Engine Light come on for 2 seconds and then go off, when the ignition is turned to ON? Is there a relay click sound when the light goes out? Do you hear the fuel pump run during those 2 seconds?

Yes, when the jumper wire from the service check connector is removed, the check engine light comes on for 2 seconds, goes off, I can hear the relay click sound, and I can hear the fuel pump.

That's good news. Based on that test, then, the problem should not be with the main relay, ignition switch, ACG(S) fuse or ECM--it's likely with the distributor. Did the distributor come with a new ICM (igniter) and coil? Check for spark.

Yes the distributor did come with a new igniter and coil. Will have my husband check for spark when he gets home.

It appears, based on your responses, that your engine should start. All of the components that normally cause problems are new. If you get a solid spark, then the problem could be the timing is just too far off (undue the distributor's 3 mounting bolts and try a new position) or you have a problem with the fuel system. Since you hear the fuel pump run and the PGM-FI Main Relay has been replaced, the fuel filter would become suspect. They should be replaced every 4 years or 60,000 miles, whichever comes first.

Did you guys ever get a solusion to this problem?

What make the fuel pump run on a 1992 honda civic

scott09, this link will go into detail on what needs to be done:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post1245523