Hi, have been working on this car off and on for the last few weeks. I was driving and it just lost power put it in neutral and just spit and sputtered and died. Call Toyota service manager, and said it may be a coolant temp. sensor, changed that no luck, also changed fuel pump, it would run for a few seconds and die again. Looked at the old coil pack and could see a split in the resin and where it had been arking, so put in a new pack, fired right up, took it out for about 1 mile and started to smell something electrical, pulled it in the shop and saw smoke coming up out from under the hood, hurried up and popped the hood open, could not see any thing burning, figured it was the new pack, pulled that one out and replaced it with a better one, and now it just turns over no fire, nothing, pulled a plug out to see for sure. Could it possibly be the ignition module that's mounted to the fender? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you kindly.

Test all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

I heard aftermarket coils for Toyotas can be problematic.

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Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey

Test all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

I heard aftermarket coils for Toyotas can be problematic.

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Hi, tested all and they seem to be fine, still thinking it may be the ign. Mod.. Thankx abunch.

Scott

See if you have a check engine light with the key 'on'. There might be something overlooked here.
I'll check back.

No check engine lights have ever come on since this has taken place. Also John 3:16 is was of my favorite verses. Thank you and God Bless

When you did the coil, it looks like you should have replaced the condenser in the dist also.
Now that you have been in there and disturbed things, the condenser has shorted. Plastic will be melted on it.
The under the hood fuse compartment will have a fuse marked "AM2" 15A. This one usually pops when the condenser shorts causing no CEL with KOEO.
If it's not, let me know.

Disconnect the negative battery cable, before working on the distributor.

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Originally Posted by kitch428

When you did the coil, it looks like you should have replaced the condenser in the dist also.
Now that you have been in there and disturbed things, the condenser has shorted. Plastic will be melted on it.
The under the hood fuse compartment will have a fuse marked "AM2" 15A. This one usually pops when the condenser shorts causing no CEL with KOEO.
If it's not, let me know.

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Hi, I must have overlooked this fuse the first time, but mine says 30A and it is blown, where is the condenser by the wa, have not seen any thing melted as of yet. Does the coil have to be removed to see it? Do you think the Ign. Mod. Maybe an issue as well? Thanks guys for all your help. If this works, it will save me from hauling it 35 miles to Des Moines.
Scott

Have you tried replacing that 30A maxifuse (cartridge-type fusible link)? They should be available at WalMart. I'm not sure where the capacitor is located, that kitch428 is referring to.

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Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey

Have you tried replacing that 30A maxifuse (cartridge-type fusible link)? They should be available at WalMart. I'm not sure where the capacitor is located, that kitch428 is referring to.

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Hi, found the condenser and removed it, it smelled burnt, and look a little melted not to bad, put a new 30 a fuse in and connected the battery anfd turned the switch on stll could not heat the fuel pump, turned it over anyway and no fire, and fuse blown again, starting to get a little frustrated.

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Originally Posted by scooter1955

Hi, found the condenser and removed it, it smelled burnt, and look a little melted not to bad, put a new 30 a fuse in and connected the battery anfd turned the switch on stll could not heat the fuel pump, turned it over anyway and no fire, and fuse blown again, starting to get a little frustrated.

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Sorry, the condenser is located in the bottom of the dist. the set screw is on the outside of the dist. housing

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Originally Posted by scooter1955

Sorry, the condenser is located in the bottom of the dist. the set screw is on the outside of the dist. housing

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Also wondering if the ign. Module could be shorting things out?

Next step, I guess, is to locate a new capacitor (likely dealer-only), install another fuse, and try again. Was there any visible damage to the rest of the distributor? If the problem persists, you may need to install a new distributor.

That's a distinct possibility. My experience is that most Ignition Control Modules (and coils) need to be replaced every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first. If you plan on keeping the car, I would replace the ICM.

Ok gentlemen, here is where I'm at. I removed the old condenser and put everything back, and still no fire, so I took the cao and rotor back off to check the wires again, and left those off, by the way I think my check engine light is burnt out, I called Toyota and the tech said if do not show a light on when key is in the on posistion the car will not start, but he also said check 7.5a ign. Fuse in the fuse compartment by the drivers left knee to see if there is juice going to it, which there is, by the way I left the key on when working with this fuse, and when I put it in place I heard a snap, thought great blew a fuse somewhere else, heard it snap again and got out to see what it was and it was the coil arcing, so I put it all back together, and sure enough the darn thing fired right up and sounded great, so I called the tech back and told him what took place and if leaving the condenser out would hurt anything, he said what it does is take the extra spark, so as not to damage the coil. Going to take it back apart and get the new condenser tomorrow, will see what takes place then. Thank you guys for your help and will keep you posted as to what happens.

Scott

Didn't the blown ignition fuse show up, when you tested all under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter?

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Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey

Didn't the blown ignition fuse show up, when you tested all under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter?

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The 7.5 was never blown, I did see the check engine light finally, the tech was right , if the light is not on it won't start I missed that one, however if the light is not on and you switch the ign. Switch off and on a few time you could get it to light up and start, so drove it around the block came home and shut it off and it would start right back up again with no fussing with it. This one rally has be baffled.

I thought I explained myself on that one but guess not. OK note to ANY future Toyota owners out there. IF YOU HAVE A NO START, AND WHEN YOU TURN THE KEY ON YOU FIND YOU HAVE NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, (NO, IT'S NOT THE BULB BURNT OUT) YOUR TOYOTA WILL NOT attempt to START UNTIL YOU GET THAT LIGHT TO COME ON.
It all in the ECM protection fuses, or the ECM it'self. You should have replaced that condenser rather than leave it out.
Also. TOYOTA FUEL PUMPS DO NOT PRIME LIKE IN HONDA'S.
THEY RUN IN THE START POSITION AND RUN. Toyota fuel pumps have sustained fuel pressure for start ups.
If you ever want to check the pump to see is it's working on this model, simply jump terminals B+ and FP in the under the hood diagnostic check connector. Turn the key to on, and you should hear it run with a stethoscope touching the fuel rail.

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Originally Posted by kitch428

I thought I explained myself on that one but guess not. OK note to ANY future Toyota owners out there. IF YOU HAVE A NO START, AND WHEN YOU TURN THE KEY ON YOU FIND YOU HAVE NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, (NO, IT'S NOT THE BULB BURNT OUT) YOUR TOYOTA WILL NOT attempt to START UNTIL YOU GET THAT LIGHT TO COME ON.
It all in the ECM protection fuses, or the ECM it'self. You should have replaced that condenser rather than leave it out.
Also. TOYOTA FUEL PUMPS DO NOT PRIME LIKE IN HONDA'S.
THEY RUN IN THE START POSITION AND RUN. Toyota fuel pumps have sustained fuel pressure for start ups.
If you ever want to check the pump to see is it's working on this model, simply jump terminals B+ and FP in the under the hood diagnostic check connector. Turn the key to on, and you should hear it run with a stethoscope touching the fuel rail.

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My apologies, I did see where you explained that earlier, just a little frustrated with this ordeal. Going to install the new condenser today and hopefully that will make a difference. Thank you all for your patience and will keep you updated as to what occurs. I'm just wondering why I had to turn the ign. Off and on a few times to get the engine light to come on?

Everyone comes on here frustrated with their automotive questions, Scott.
I just wanted to put the word out there for people doing a search with the same problem you have.
What you have is a very common problem in the older models.
At least you're saving big time labor charges that I'd be charging you. :)