I have been under the hood. All dash gauges have quit working along with front power windows, I also have to unlock the gear shift drop in neutral then I can start and drop in drive. I have tested every fuse I can find. I have even tried the big block relay/fuses under hood and some in the driver compartment, I have also switched out the integrated circuit box (?) sliver box above the fuse panel in the driver compartment. I have had no luck, anyone have any suggestions?

When you check fuses, it's important to use a multimeter or test light to test fuses. It's faster, more accurate, and eliminates the possibility of replacing the fuse in the wrong slot, which is easy to do on under-dash fuses. Focus on the under-dash ACG (S) fuse and the ignition switch.

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Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey

When you check fuses, it's important to use a multimeter or test light to test fuses. It's faster, more accurate, and eliminates the possibility of replacing the fuse in the wrong slot, which is easy to do on under-dash fuses. Focus on the under-dash ACG (S) fuse and the ignition switch.

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I have already tested every fuse possible with a fuse tester, this weekend I went through switching out the large relay/fuses, I even switched out the control module and 2 other modules in the driver compartment with no change. I found 1 fuse under the hood that was bad and replaced it, no change. Any other suggestions?

Use a DMM to identify where the open is located. Flow is from battery to under-hood fuse/relay box to ignition switch to under-dash fuse/relay box to gauge assembly. Test for power leaving the ACG (S) 15 A fuse. Should be a BLK/YEL wire. Power from this fuse goes to your gauges.