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-   -   Car stuck in park, Brake lights not working (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=402733)

  • Oct 4, 2009, 09:01 PM
    Randy Mixmaster
    Car stuck in park, Brake lights not working
    Hello Everyone,
    I have a 95 ford taurus GL, the car will not come out of park when the ignition is turned on and the brake lights do not work. Ive replaced and checked the brake switch, turn signal switch and the ignition switch, all of which are tied to the brakes. I can turn the ignition switch part way and pull the shift lever down into neutral, start the car put it in drive and reverse, so I know it has nothing to do with the tranmission.
    If someone knows what could be wrong or has dealt with this problem please let me know, it would be greatly appericated.
  • Oct 5, 2009, 06:02 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    This link will help you solve your problem:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post1838065

    In most cases, the cause is a bad fuse.
  • Oct 6, 2009, 09:48 AM
    Randy Mixmaster

    Thank you TxGreasemonkey for the quick response.
    Ive found that I have 12 volts going to the Boo switch, But when the brake is depressed I get nothing is this normal or is it part of the problem ?
    Thanks Randy
  • Oct 6, 2009, 09:50 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    That is the problem. Try spraying the BOO Switch with WD-40. If the problem persists, remove and check out the switch with your multimeter. From there, you can decide whether it should be replaced or not. Also, check the BOO Switch's adjustment before discarding.
  • Oct 7, 2009, 09:23 AM
    Randy Mixmaster

    Ok I guess testing with a multimeter and a test light shows two different things. With the multimeter I'm showing 12v at the fuse block (the Yellow wire feeding the power to that fuse, and should be hot all the time) With the test light it will Not light. Im not sure how to trace this wire, in the power distribution box all fuses show to be good. Not sure where to look from here.
  • Oct 7, 2009, 09:30 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Test each terminal on the fuse separately. If you have, remove the fuse, clean contacts with abrasive cloth or steel wool, and retest.

    Have you tested all fuses in the under dash fuse box?
  • Oct 7, 2009, 10:24 AM
    Randy Mixmaster

    Txgreasemonley Thank you for the fast responses,
    Yes I've pulled each fuse and looked them over as well as tested them with the meter
  • Oct 7, 2009, 10:36 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    I don't know what else to suggest.
  • Oct 7, 2009, 12:17 PM
    Randy Mixmaster

    Tx I think I found it, I pulled the power distribution box out and was tracing the wires along the inner fender to the (im guessing what its called) junction box or connector for the wiring harness. I found one Yellow wire that has green corrosion like what you would see with copper. My question is how do I find out what gauge wire it is and what is the best way to splice it?
    Ps Thank you for all your help and advice
  • Oct 7, 2009, 12:22 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    You can buy wire gauges for determing AWG. As a generalization, I would use insulated solderless connectors to splice wires together.
  • Oct 7, 2009, 04:32 PM
    Randy Mixmaster

    TxGreasemonkey,
    It's fixed!! I want to thank you for all your help and very quick responses Thank You
    Randy
  • Oct 7, 2009, 04:53 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Was the problem corrosion on the YEL wire? Did you end up splicing the wire with connectors?
  • Oct 7, 2009, 05:02 PM
    Randy Mixmaster

    Yes the yellow wire coming from the power distribution box for the fuse box had apparently rubbed just enough on the wheel well to allow moisture to corrode the wire causing it to go bad.
    I really do appericate all of your help :)
    Thank You
    Randy
  • Oct 7, 2009, 06:19 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Check the Ford Section of the Sticky for a host of articles applicable to your Taurus.

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