Hello TxGreaseMonkey,
My 92 Honda has a similar problem. First, it stalled sometime when driving. I waited about 15 min and it could start again. So, I decided to replace the distributor cap, rotor and/or even ICM. My version of distributor (Duralast) doesn't have a screw that secure the rotor. I took the distributor cap off, and I only noticed little corrosion on the electrodes and the on the rotor(the metallic part). I 've just cleaned them a little bit, and I also wanted to uninstall the ICM in order to check, but it seems that it is not so easy to uninstall it. So, I put everything back, since then it couldn't start anymore (it cranks but not start).
I'm sure that I put the wire set back in a good order. If it's not, can it start (maybe incorectly, but it can still start, right?)?
I've noticed that the CEL didn't go off after two seconds ( you said it should go off for a Honda Civic. Is it also true for a 92 Honda Accord?) There is only one 15-Amp fuse under the dash fuse box, isn't it? Can I just unplug it without disconnecting the negative cable on the battery?

Please help! Thank you.

. Focus on the items below, not the distributor at this point, since the CEL stays on:

When you turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II), does the Check Engine Light (CEL) come on and then go off after 2 seconds? If not, the problem is with the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse, in the under-dash fuse/relay box; ECM (perform the K-Test); Main Relay; or the Ignition Switch. Perform tests in that order.

Yes, it's definitely true for your 1992 Accord.

. Test all under dash and under hood fuses with a test light or multimeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

Be very thorough, since it will save a lot of time and money.

. Perform K-Test on the ECM:

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

. Check the main relay.

. Check the ignition switch for wear, pitting, or melting, if the problem persists:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post224652