This car is becoming a nightmare and fast.

It has no spark now. It can't be the coils because it's almost impossible that all three coils went bad at the same time unless of a volt surge. Which if there was a surge it would have fried the ICM anyway. But who knows.

Is there a way to test the ICM?
Does anyone know the reset presedures to reset the security module. (the light on the dash is on when the key is on)

Or does anyone have any other idea of why its not getting spark!

Let me know

Rick

. Test all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

. Check for codes.

. Test ICM on a Well's machine at AutoZone. Bench testing ICMs is not always reliable, however. If it tests bad, it will be bad. If it tests fine, it may or may not be any good.

I have a mechanic coming over in about an hour to test codes. I have a 12 volt tester I will use to test the ICM.

Don't I have to connect the ground wire to the negative terminal of the coil and crank the car over, if it flashes then it's good. If not then its bad?

I also called Murrays (auto discount store) and they have a machine to test ECMS and ICMS and its free but the issue is getting it there :(

Murrays also had the cheapest ICM. They have one for $85 with a lifetime warranty. Is that cheap? (its cheaper then everywhere else I looked around this god-for-saken region!

Rick

$85 sounds reasonable. Again, I wouldn't waste my time trying to bench test the ICM myself. Use their machine to see what it comes up with--just be skeptical if it says it's okay.

I don't have that option because it won't start to make it to Murrays. :(.

A part of me wants to "bench test" it because it's a great learning experience.

If the security dash light is on isn't that the security module or bypass. By chance do you know the precedure to reset it? I read online that you have to leave the key on 10 minutes and it should reset it so I am trying that right now, because it said when the security light is on the car will not start until it turns off.

Also I have a rather stupid question. A 5mm socket is too small but a 6mm is to big. Also a 7/32 is too big and a 3/16 is too small. Im trying to take the distributor cap off so I can "bench test" the ICM. I know you said it would be a waste but its all I got for now!

Thanks for everything you've told me and helped me with thus far!

Rick

5.5 mm or 7/32 should work. Yep, the sockets come in 0.5 mm increments.

<edit fixed 5/32 to 7/32>

7/32" = 5.55 mm
You likely need an exact 5.5 mm socket or nut driver.

I'm not familiar with your car to know the reset procedure. Sorry.

All right thanks guys... here is what I plan on doing. There no point in checking compression if the car won't start. Ill worry about the head gasket issue later

I am going to get a 5.5mm socket take the cap off, bench test the ICM, and check the codes.
Couldn't it also be a host of sensors on the module that went bad?

Rick

I doubt that there are any other sensors on the ICM. It will stand alone.

You want to test all under hood and under dash fuses, too.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey

You want to test all under hood and under dash fuses, too.

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With a multimeter?

Got it! Silly me... it was the ignition switch fuse. Thanks to everyone who kept telling me to check the fuses, I finally did today and it works. Thanks!

RICK

So simple.