I am interested in buying a car that needs some work done on it.
The car is a 1999 Pontiac Grand Am. 6cyl 3.4L OHV 12V

It needs a new head gasket and other essential gaskets and seals.
I am short on time and was wondering of where to go for the best price.

I found a gasket set on eBay that was $75 which was the cheapest but eBay scares me :D

On average at auto warehouse stores the price was $200. The set needs to include the following.

+ Graphite steel head gasket
+ Intake manifold gasket
+ Exhaust manifold gasket
+ Valve cover gasket
+ Valve stem seals
+ Camshaft front
+ O-rings
+ Other Small Gaskets needed to complete the job.

Head bolts are not necessary, I will clean and retorque the existing bolts. (money saver)

Let me know! Thanks in Advance...

Rick

I'd go with a major brand of gaskets--such as FelPro. If I could get the same FelPro set of gaskets on eBay, for less money, I would buy them there.

I looked at the set you were referring to ($114.27):

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/99-03...Q5fAccessories

There's likely little risk in going that direction.

The set you looked at for $114.27 included the head bolts. I was told that while it's recommended that you replace these its not necessary. What is your opinion?

Here's the set I'm looking at: let me know what you think.

99-03 Pontiac Grand AM 3.4 OHV FWD Head Gasket Set:eBay Motors (item 370234238297 end time Sep-21-09 16:06:58 PDT)

Rick

If they are torque-to-yield, as they likely are, I would definitely replace them. You don't mess around with strethch bolts. Be sure to check whether they should be torqued wet (coated with clean engine oil)--most are.

I am unsure of what torque to angle means, if you wouldn't mind elaborating a little. Other then the head bolts does the set above look decent. It's not Felpro but its DGaskets. I don't know much about them but all the Felpro sets I looked at ran about $180-250

Rick

Normally, you clean the bolts and head, dip bolts in clean oil, and torque to a given spec. Then, you use a breaker bar, with an angle adapter on top, to torque to the proper angle. The head bolt is literally stretched to the proper angle. Sears and many auto parts stores sell the angle adapter ($10).

The gasket set looks decent, to me. You need to get a shop manual or Haynes Manual covering the important head bolt procedure.

Ok I can probably do that. As long as its what I need I can buy this set...

Thanks so much!

Rick

I don't re-use torque-to-yield bolts.
Any bolt that requires torque angle is a torque-to-yield bolt.

I also prefer Fel-Pro. Partially because of their reputation, and partially my own personal experience. Their kits seem to include everything and more than what you need.
Others will probably work. Just not on my watch.

Now is the time to look the 3.4 over and see if any other potential leaks can be addressed...

What other leaks are you referring to?

Rick

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ITstudent2006

What other leaks are you referring to?

Rick

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... any other potential leaks, I said.

If you have other engine or transmission seals that are inaccessible once the engine is reassembled and installed, now would be the time to replace them.
Seals tend to become brittle over time and, if they aren't leaking now, they may soon.

I seen what you said, I was asking for examples. I have a few other questions.

1. The head on this engine is aluminum. (to make it lighter I guess) if the gasket did blow forcing the heat out of the seals, wouldn't the high heat warp the aluminum head. Is this something to worry about?

2. How can I tell if the head gasket is bad. I was told to take starter fluid and spray around the head while the car was started and if the engine takes off then it's sucking the fluid in through the head and therefore the head-gasket is bad? Is this an accurate statement?

3. I also own a 1996 Kia Sportage 4x4 I need a new tranny. Anyine know of a good place to look, the closest I found to Michigan for decent money was in Illinois. :(

Let me know guys!

Thanks
Rick

The first two that come to mind are the transmission input shaft seal and engine rear main seal.
Other questions (about this post, your other vehicle should be on another thread, please):

1.: Yes, the aluminum cylinder head may require a machinist to inspect for warpage.

2.: No. Not accurate, at all! NEVER use starting fluid! Far too explosive!
If you have a leaking intake gasket, spraying a quality carburator or throttle plate cleaner along the seam may reveal a leak, if there is one.

As far as the head gasket is concerned, you stated in your original post that the engine in fact needed a head gasket. What made you say that? What symptoms are you getting?

3.: Start a new thread for your other vehicle so it will get noticed by others who may have additional resource for used parts.

I was told it needed a new head gasket when I bought it. The more I look at and hear it running and drive it the more I don't think it does.

It over heats and leaks coolant. That's it.
I haven't checked to see where it s leaking and if its into the block but I will do that tomorrow. Also If the coolant does leak into the engine won't that corrupt the cylinders? I checked the oil to see if it was white and/or foamy but the oil looked surprisngly really good. Over full but good. I had to drain a quart out because it was about a quart high.
I don't know why someone would fill it a quart high so maybe the coolant is leaking into the engine. Wouldn't the oil be white and foamy?

As far as what makes me think it needed a head gasket. I was told it did that's it. I honestly couldn't tell you if it does or not. I know a little about cars but not to this extent.

Rick

Overheating and leaking... You need to inspect the water pump and all of the hoses, freeze plugs, etc.
Inspect along the cylinder head seams, looking for signs of coolant leakage.
Since the engine still runs, do you have a way to perform a compression test or, even better, a cylinder leak test? The later will be more precise.
The oil may appear surprisingly good because it may have been recently changed. Not to hide the fault (you have been told it needs gaskets) but to protect the engine from further damage.
And, yes. If coolant is getting into the oil, it would look like chocolate milk and it would be foamy.
So, if you're not that familiar with engine repair, who's going to set up your cam timing?

My dad's a mechanic as well as my girlfriends brother-in-law. So no worries on getting the car back to running.

I took this as my project so I am doing as much as I can by myself with the insight and help from them two.

Here is what I plan on doing.

1. Compression test first thing in the morning.
2. Check hoses and water pump.

I also saw a post online (on another forum :( ) and it said that if I take the radiater cap off and crank the car over a few times and it shoots a geyser then that means it's a head gasket issue. I am unsure if this is correct.

If you were me what would be the steps you would take. I have so many people talking to me about this I am getting so many different answers. But I keep in mind that you two wouldn't be experts if you didn't know what you were talking about. :D

Let me know

Rick

P.S. Also I am going to put some water in the over flow and run the car 3 miles down the road to a quality mechanics house. (friend of my g/f's dad) he said he could tell what is wrong with it. Is this a good idea. (to run the car, I know it leaks coolant but I want to put water in it just in case it does leak into the cylinders)

A compression test can show a lot, but can also miss a lot.
For various reasons (too lengthy to go into here), it is also best done on an engine that is already at operating temperature.

As I mentioned before, the cylinder leak test will reveal far more but requires specialized tools and knowledge. Perhaps your local help will have what you need.

Ok thanks but as you may or may not have seen I'm having issues starting the vehicle now. :( So first things first and we got to get it started before I worry about the head gasket issue!

Rick

Ok since I got the car started now I put water in the coolant overflow and started the car and drove it to the end of the road and back. The temp. reached a little over half-way but then dropped to hal-way where it remained.

I pulled back into the driveway leav ing the car idle and looked underneath the car. Not to my surprise there were puddles of anti-freeze/water everywhere. All around the engine. Is this a sign that it's a head gasket issue?

Rick

Not necessarily. You should be able to visually spot the source of the leak.