Hello and thanks in advance for helping me.

I cannot get the old spout off. We don't have a propane torch. Nor do we have any wd-40. I actually managed (through determination) to remove the diverter from the spout, hoping to get a better access to the spout opening and hence more leverage. No luck.

We are planning to run to supermarket to get WD-40 tonight. What about C-L-R, might that loosen it up? I have a feeling that this is a corrosion issue--since that was the problem with the diverter and we have well water.

I have looked through the opening in the back of the tub and the hole in the bottom of the spout--it's the kind of spout that is simply threaded onto the end of the copper pipe. This should be so much easier than it is! :confused:

Thanks for any help you can offer!:)

Yes removing a spout is very easy you don't need a propane torch, see the images below, they are threaded and slip fit, let us know which one you got, Thanks.

John

I have #3.

This one is called nose connection the pipe coming out from the tub is threaded and this spout is threaded to the pipe, you need a big screw driver or something else to fit in the nose of the spout for leverage and twist it counter clock wise to loose and remove it, if you need help with installation please let us know, good luck.

John

Or a big pair of pliers. What do you care if you mess up the finish.

Ok, I will try more tools. So far wrench, various handles, haven't worked. I think I need something with a longer handle for more leverage. (Also, the finish is already trashed since I beat it up a bit getting out the diverter!)

Since the corrosion was so bad that the diverter wouldn't move up and down, I am thinking that this is basically glued on.

I am with Harold what do you care, it is not glued and not soldered, just remove it.
Good luck.

John

Look under the bottom and make sure that you don't have a slip fit with a really tight set screw like #5.

We had #3. My husband worked on it. We tried wd-40. It was really stuck on there--and we couldn't get any leverage through the spout hole. So he used a long drill bit (which he didn't mind sacrificing) and wearing gloves, put it through the hole in the top of the spout (remember I removed the diverter already) and was able to remove the spout. I thought that was pretty innovative!

Now we have a new problem! The old spout was about 3 mm longer. It also wasn't flush against the wall at the top. They had just filled in with caulk to make up for the gap at the top between the shower wall and spout.

Since the new spout is shorter, once your thread it on the pipe, it is flush at the bottom, but the space at the top is a good 1/8 inch gap. I am not really comfortable with caulking that large a gap. I see leaks and dry rot in the future.

Is there a way to gently adjust the angle of the water pipe so that it is level? (It actually may be level and a matter of the pre-fab fiberglass tub wall being slightly angled.) Should I post this as a new question? I am new here and don't want to go against protocol.

Is it time to call a plumber? Well, clearly not TODAY, being labor day! But you know what I mean.

I am glad that you finally removed the old spout, the new problem if you can leave with the 1/8” gap is fine just fill it with caulking, or I would suggest to replace the spout and the nipple see the image below, if you decide to replace the spout you need to remove the old nipple and get a new nipple and new spout, make sure you get a proper length nipple it should be protruded from the wall 1 3/8”, also you would need to get some Teflon tape, good luck.

John

Hey all...

John.. this is a copper pipe so replacing with a nipple will not help without major work.

Momstar... as stated by John... caulking this will work fine, but if you want to fix this you can probably do it by simply bending the copper pipe just slightly upward.

Take a large screwdriver and stick it in the end of the pipe and then push down on the pipe close to the wall with your hand then take the screwdriver and lift so that it just bends the pipe abit... be careful not to stress the fitting behind the wall... all stress must be in the front or as I am sure you can imagine the pipe could break in the back and that would just stink!

You could also heat and bend the copper pipe if you are handy enough... trick here is to not overheat the pipe so you melt the soldered fitting (out front or inside the wall). Here, you could take a couple wetted rags and place it over the pipe close to the wall and over the fitting on the end of the pipe and then in the middle of the pipe you can heat the pipe until you see a slight redness appear... then lift the fitting with a screwdriver and it will bend easily.

These ways have worked for me many, many times over the years as I have remodeled poor quality work.

Anyway, just some ideas for you... :)

MARK

Hmmmm,
How am I going to bend that stubout so that the spout fits up against the tub surround snugly? The spout is a little short also.

The pipe is short, so I don't have much leverage. I don't want to break any thing and I don't want to over bend it. I don't have a torch and being round its going to be hard to bend.

I could clamp apiece of wood to it with a couple of clamps with something in between. That way I'd be putting the pressure at the right place. I would also have control of how much pressure I applied. But the pipe is round and it would be hard to get the clamps centered. Being as short as it is I probably couldn't get both clamps on it.

What I really want to do is make the spout and the tub surround meet. Not necessarily bend the pipe. Maybe I should go around back to the access hole and tap a couple of shims up between the drywall and the fiber glass and push the surround out to meet the spout. If it's a free standing surround I'll just nail up a piece of wood between the studs to push it out. Maybe all I will have to do is put a shim between the pipe coming down from the valve and the tub surround.

Yep, I think I'll try that first.

Mark May be I am wrong, but the question is how would they have threads on the copper pipe I am still thinking of a brass nipple and that is why I am asking for replacing the nipple and the spout, or leave it as it is and use caulking let it dry before using the tub, Thanks.

John

Hey John...

They would have a MALE ADAPTER soldered onto the copper pipe... ;) Most plumbers I know haven't used brass nipples for this application in decades!

Harold... good point on searching for an access panel and seeing if they can simply shim the pipe... easiest is always best! In fact, in hindsight, the torch idea probably isn't such a "hot" idea with a fiberglass wall surround... huh? :rolleyes:

Thanks guys...


MARK

Hi Mark, You mean both ends of the pipe has this male adapters installed?

Momstar,
Please look at your pipe if it has this adapter installed, Thanks.

Regarads,
John

Hi John...

Nope... Most tub/shower valves today have a female thread at the valve and we install a male adapter at the valve, a copper x copper drop ear elbow (see 1st image of elbow fitting at bottom left) at the turn and a male adapter to accept the spout when we set/install the finish trim. This can also be a male thread on the valve body and a female adapter to transition to the copper pipe behind the wall. Then the copper x copper drop ear elbow is secured, pipe stubbed out and male adapter soldered on at finish as mentioned.

The female/male adapter at the valve is something that will allow some adjustment without stressing a soldered joint should the stubbed out copper pipe be misaligned to the wall for whatever reason... at least that is always how I looked at it... ;)

Heck, some people just install a copper elbow and clip the tub spout pipe as in the picture below. I don't advise this (I use the drop ear elbow)... but it is more common nowadays to see this setup than to see people with different sizes of brass nipples available... especially with what brass nipples cost nowadays. That's not to say some people aren't doing them regular enough to know the right nipples to have on hand... it's just that the copper pipe and male adapter allow so much more adjustability is all!

Anyway, Momstar said, "it's the kind of spout that is simply threaded onto the end of the copper pipe" so I figured that it was exactly what it was. Perhaps she'll return and let us know either way... :)

Thanks...

MARK

Hello Mark,

Thanks for your clarification it sounds great I was confused from the start that it might be a brass nipple; I really appreciate the way you describe things and give your suggestions experience talks.

Mark, one other thing since Momstar has the nose connection spout don't you suggest if they cut the pipe to the size where they can install a universal slip fit spout, this will another option, Thanks.

Regards,
John

Thanks John... you never know here, either... could still be a brass nipple... ;) Time will tell!

And if the pipe is too short then great idea to swap over to a universal slip on spout, but the misalignment will still need to be dealt with (or caulked in).


Mark

Thanks Mark,

Regards,
John