The building permit for my proposed 14 x 24 ft garage has been approved, subject to the perimeter and downpipes draining to "approved rock pit - engineer design required". Our lot, in a 100-year old hillside neighbourhood (without storm drains) in a BC coastal town, is only 50ft wide and slopes gently (from the garage site towards the house). What is the minimum recommended distance between the garage and the rock pit, and between the rock pit and the house? What dimension would the pit itself need to be and how would it need to be constructed? The house has a post & block foundation sitting on the original hard packed sand & rock subsoil, which drains well. Thanks for your thoughts & feedback.

These are questions your engineer will have to answer and calculations only he can do. Rain fall and soil peculation are probably factors. Note the "engineer design required" part of the approval. To me, that means that the drawings are going to have the engineer's seal.

Agree, the engineers stamp will be proof to the building inspector that you will met their codes.

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What dimension would the pit itself need to be and how would it need to be constructed?

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The dimensions are determined by the roof size for runoff. (Local code will determine)

The 'Pit" you are referring to is called a "Water Infiltration" pit. A Big French Drain was good enough for the old days for me. But can't collect money that way. So lets make it sound important to collect money from you.

Those "Pits consists of a fibered cloth that lays on the bottom and wraps around the sides. Inside that is a PVC pipe coming out of the pit with 2b clean stone filling up the pit to below grade. Cloth over that pit then topsoil . The pipe is connected to the down spouts. That's what's required here. It could change there.

My grip as a builder is the pits get to close to an on site drainfeilds and can effect the drainfeild by over saturation it with roof water runoff. It sits in the pits for days or weeks.

Thank you very much - I appreciate your feedback and suggestions. I've tried to consult the local code, but have not been able to access it yet (there are hefty charges for doing it via the Web).
Will get an engineer involved and hope this doesn't kill the piggy bank for the whole project.

See what I mean Pocket. There is a way sometimes around the back door hand draw up the pit ans submit for approval. Throw the ball in the township court unless it "HAS to be engineered" The guide lines are along the same thing as a drinfeild.

Go to the code officers and ask what are the min standard specks for roof size to pit. May save a lot on money here if that flys.

It's the same basic thing as when you perk the perk speed numbers correlates to the "Chart" for requirement of field to tank to occupancy.

There should be NO CHARGE to find the local codes.. It's a public owned municipal building and the employees there work for US, our tax money..

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Originally Posted by 21boat

See what I mean Pocket. There is a way sometimes around the back door hand draw up the pit ans submit for approval. Throw the ball in the township court unless it "HAS to be engineered" The guide lines are along the same thing as a drinfeild.

Go to the code officers and ask what are the min standard specks for roof size to pit. May save a lot on money here if that flys.

Its the same basic thing as when you perk the perk speed numbers correlates to the "Chart" for requirement of field to tank to occupancy.

There should be NO CHARGE to find the local codes.. Its a public owned municipal building and the employees there work for US, our tax money..

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Brilliant - thank you; that is really helpful information and you can be sure I'll follow up. It doesn't help that we live 5 hours away from the build site (our retirement home, we hope). Nevertheless, I'll do my darnedest to get to the bottom of it (yeah - pun) and will keep you posted on the outcome!

Let us know how you make out and good Luck