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-   -   Cracked vertical waste line (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=393013)

  • Sep 2, 2009, 09:15 PM
    rae bi
    Cracked vertical waste line
    I own a four family house, one tenant notice a leak. I went to the property and removed the drywall , to my surprise the vertical waste ( cast iron )was cracked from the bottom entering the hub to the top just below the hub. Here is my problem , 1st what do I use to support the above hub it has a couple branches connected ? 2) can I use a no hub band to connect the hub to pvc at the top? 3) can I just sleeve the pvc into the hub below or do I need a special connector?

    Thank you
    Dave
  • Sep 2, 2009, 10:22 PM
    Acesarewild

    Hey, Dave! You know, if you're skilled, you'll need an extra set of hands to help you out with that. If you're not really skilled in the area, you should altogether seek the advice of a local plumber in your area. If it's not done right, after you replace the drywall, it could rupture and cause yet another problem for you.

    So, call some local plumbers in your area for free estimates, during which time you could seek their opinion of what to do as they try to present their estimate; doing so, you can either accept their estimate and hire them for the job, or, if you become confident enough from the knowledge you obtained, you can do it on your own.

    Hmm, for your convenience, here's a handyman site that I have come to use for my own house projects, which has a section dedicated to plumbing how-to articles and plumbing projects, where you'll find not only informative information, but also a text-link ad that offers up to four (4) Free Estimates from such local plumbing contractors in your area (scroll down a bit and it's the text-link towards the middle of the page):

    Home Improvement Zone...Plumbing Category ~ Your Handyman Zone :: Hammer it Out in the Zone

    Click on the "Find Local Plumbing Services. Get Up to 4 Quotes Now...Free" text link. Guessing on here is not as productive as getting a quote from local plumbers, as I said above. From general experience, you'll be glad that you got concrete estimates.
  • Sep 3, 2009, 04:37 AM
    speedball1
    Hi Dave,
    You will first clear the lead and oakum joint at the bottom. To remove a poured lead and oakum joint take a 3/8" drill bit and drill a few holes down past the lead and into the oakum.. Push a screwdriver under the lead ring and lever it up. Once it's free you can began to peel the lead ring out. Now pick out the oakum and you can pull the joint apart
    Quote:

    1st what do I use to support the above hub it has a couple branches connected ?
    You will make your cut using a set of ratchet sutters,(see image) or a Saws-All leaving the hub and 4 or 5" of stock. You will secure the cast iron from falling with a raiser clamp, (See images).
    You may now remove the old pipe.
    Quote:

    2) can I use a no hub band to connect the hub to pvc at the top?
    Yes you may.
    Quote:

    3) can I just sleeve the pvc into the hub below or do I need a special connector?
    Simple, but not that simple!
    You may need help on this one. You will purchase some oakum from a plumbing store and some "cold lead" (see image)
    You need a oldtime plumber that cut his teeth on lead and oakum joints. Hey!
    That would be me! Let me explain about lead and oakum joints. I'm going to
    Assume that you have a basic knowledge of the tools needed to pour and caulk a
    Joint. A short course: It's not the lead that makes the joint water tight. It's
    Okum, a hemp like material that swells up when water hits it. The lead is just
    To make sure the okum is packed in tight enough to seal. Next you will need a , yarning iron to push the okum down in the joint. A
    Packing iron to pack the okum down tight. If the joint is a horzontal one you
    Will need a well oiled running rope to hold the lead in the joint until it
    Cools. And last you will need inside and outside caulking irons plus a ball peen
    Hammer. <BR>Take a length of oakum and run it around the inside of the bell/hub
    And tamp it down with a yearning iron. Do this until the oakum is almost to the
    Top. Now take the packing iron and ball-peen hanner and pack the oakum tightly
    In the bell. You should be left with a 3/8 to 1/2" of space for the lead.<BR>Too
    Much oakum? Take some out and repack it.<BR>Now fill the hub with cold lead and caulk the joint. Good louck, Tom

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