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-   -   No Spark, CEL stays on. 95 Honda chassis, 94 GSR motor (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=392869)

  • Sep 2, 2009, 11:36 AM
    rackmonster
    No Spark, CEL stays on. 95 Honda chassis, 94 GSR motor
    Swap worked well and car ran great for 600 miles, then had 1 intermittent no spark/no start condition. After checking for spark, it then started... not sure why. Then the next time it was shut down, no more sparky or starty...

    Did k-test on MAP... good
    Tested Main Relay... good
    Ignition switch seams good. Everything works normal on dash lights and starter, but CEL does not turn off. All lights are strong, no flickering or dim lights.

    Not sure if ECU is bad since it actually will throw code 10?? Continuous long flashes. This is the AIT sensor and we have Zero continuity between the 2 pins on the sensor. Can this sensor shut you down? Or, is our continuous long flash on CEL telling us the ECU is bad?

    Don't know anyone brave enough to let us test this ECU in another car.

    Where can I get specs on testing voltage and resistance, etc on the ECU?
  • Sep 2, 2009, 11:43 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    . Test all under dash and under hood fuses with a test light or multimeter:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

    Be sure to test the ACG (S) (ALT) fuse in the under dash fuse box. Be very thorough, since it will save a lot of time and money.


    . Check ignition switch for wear, pitting, and melting:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post224652

    Since it passed the K-Test, the problem is likely with fuses, ignition switch, or main relay. Try resetting the ECM and see if the problem comes back. Perform the K-Test at different times, to ensure the ECM is not intermittently failing.
  • Sep 3, 2009, 08:59 AM
    rackmonster
    Thanks for the quick response. Car is now running. Unfortunately, I'm not really sure of the cause. Here's what we did...

    Test all pins on the ECU plugs, k-test again, re-check all the fuses, confirm power(s) and ground(s) on the ECU plug, and recheck all the aftermarket connections on the remote start wiring.

    The ACG fuse was good, but I had a hard time getting 0 ohms and had to clean the contacts (this is my most likely suspicion of the problem).

    Since the dash wiring is set up for auto trans and we have the aftermarket remote start, I'm guessing that is why the CEL does not go out in 2 seconds. It does go out after the car starts. Something to do with the sensor for key in ignition and park indicator could create this? Cruise does not work and I suspect that is also because the dash think's it's in park all the time. Would be nice to find a way to hot wire this with a relay or some kind of custom circuit.

    Just in case, I purchased a used P72A01 to swap out before I got home to go through all connections again. Now I have a good working spare. Got a good enough deal on it to sell it for more than it cost, so not really a waste of cash there.

    Cheers!
  • Sep 3, 2009, 09:03 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Good job. Lightly coat the ACG (S) (ALT) fuse's contacts with dielectric grease.

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