I wanted to caulk the seam between my backsplash and my wall. When dry, I wanted to tape the edge and paint the wall. Then remove the tape. So far I:
1. used expired caulk which never set (big room, tons of caulking) wiped it all out for 2 hours.
2. used silicone and the paint didn't stick, so I peeled it out, peeling paint up the wall, sanded the paint smooth where it was jagged and...
3. used latex paintable caulk, taped after 48 hours and found before I started painting that the tape peels the "always flexible" caulk up.
4. I'm going to set my bathroom ablaze.
5. is there a caulk on earth that will do what I want?

Remove and clean the joint. Paint wall, let dry, probably a couple days or longer. Tape the wall, then apply tub and tile latex caulk and smooth. Remove tape before caulking skims over.

GilderDave: Sorry about your problems with caulking. Lot of people don't believe how hard it is to apply caulk properly and with satisfactory results. We don't even let our guys to caulk new installations until we are absolutely certain they know what the are doing. Even then, they start with Latex based caulks and graduate to Silicone later.

There are 2 kinds of caulk for your application: 1. Silicone based and 2. Latex based.

Stay away from Silicone based caulking, if you have no experience with caulking. You get only one shot at Silicone. If not applied properly , the final result looks unsatisfactory.

Use Latex ( Alex) caulking. They sell Painter's grade that is designed to be painted over. Some caulks also are designed to repel mold.

In any case, the surface has to be CLEAN and DRY, otherwise caulk will not stick. Also, don't attempt to caulk gaps too wide. Caulk will cave in and/or will remain wet for very long time.

First, PAINT. Once the painting is finished, use Latex Caulk of your color of choice, caulk the gap and smooth / wipe off with wet finger several times. Keep cleaning your finger after each run. Keep goint over it until caulk leave nice, small, tiny line. Let dry.

There is a different approach with Silicone. I would not suggest you use Silicone if you have no experience working with it.

Can you post a photo of the area you are working on ?

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y54...e/P8310263.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y54...e/P8310264.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y54...e/P8310265.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y54...e/P8310266.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y54...e/P8310267.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y54...e/P8310270.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Milo Dolezal

GilderDave: Sorry about your problems with caulking. Lot of people don't believe how hard it is to apply caulk properly and with satisfactory results. We don't even let our guys to caulk new installations until we are absolutely certain they know what the are doing. Even then, they start with Latex based caulks and graduate to Silicone later.

There are 2 kinds of caulk for your application: 1. Silicone based and 2. Latex based.

Stay away from Silicone based caulking, if you have no experience with caulking. You get only one shot at Silicone. If not applied properly , the final result looks unsatisfactory.

Use Latex ( Alex) caulking. They sell Painter's grade that is designed to be painted over. Some caulks also are designed to repel mold.

In any case, the surface has to be CLEAN and DRY, otherwise caulk will not stick. Also, don't attempt to caulk gaps too wide. Caulk will cave in and/or will remain wet for very long time.

First, PAINT. Once the painting is finished, use Latex Caulk of your color of choice, caulk the gap and smooth / wipe off with wet finger several times. Keep cleaning yoru finger after each run. Keep goint over it until caulk leave nice, small, tiny line. Let dry.

There is a different approach with Silicone. I would not suggest you use Silicone if you have no experience working with it.

Can you post a photo of the area you are working on ?

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http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y54...e/P8310269.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Milo Dolezal

GilderDave: Sorry about your problems with caulking. Lot of people don't believe how hard it is to apply caulk properly and with satisfactory results. We don't even let our guys to caulk new installations until we are absolutely certain they know what the are doing. Even then, they start with Latex based caulks and graduate to Silicone later.

There are 2 kinds of caulk for your application: 1. Silicone based and 2. Latex based.

Stay away from Silicone based caulking, if you have no experience with caulking. You get only one shot at Silicone. If not applied properly , the final result looks unsatisfactory.

Use Latex ( Alex) caulking. They sell Painter's grade that is designed to be painted over. Some caulks also are designed to repel mold.

In any case, the surface has to be CLEAN and DRY, otherwise caulk will not stick. Also, don't attempt to caulk gaps too wide. Caulk will cave in and/or will remain wet for very long time.

First, PAINT. Once the painting is finished, use Latex Caulk of your color of choice, caulk the gap and smooth / wipe off with wet finger several times. Keep cleaning yoru finger after each run. Keep goint over it until caulk leave nice, small, tiny line. Let dry.

There is a different approach with Silicone. I would not suggest you use Silicone if you have no experience working with it.

Can you post a photo of the area you are working on ?

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Yes, indeed, it is ugly. You have to get it off somehow. It will be hard to remove it w/o leaving marks on the drywall. Do your best. Start all over again. I do not think you can "fix" it at this stage.

When you do it again: cut off only 1/8" of the tube tip. Cut under 45 degree angle. Go over the gap while squeezing out only what the gap needs. Try to apply it the way so you don't have too over the gap. You should have no excess caulk on the wall when smoothing it out with finger.


I am enclosing photos what the final result should look like...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Milo Dolezal

squeezing out only what the gap needs. Try to do apply the way so you don't have too much in that area.

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I agree with Milo on that. The absolute worst thing you can do is put down too much caulking. If you get too much caulking, all you can do is smear it around.

Mask wall and use white tub and tile around tub. Mask wall and use clear around back splash. You can mask both the wall and the back splash or tub if you want.

My company has always used Dap White Tub and Tile Caulk, a latex product, with no problems. Regards, Tom

Couple of things - I went over the existing caulk and that white up the wall is not caulk, it's ripped paint from the latex deal. So I assume you mean remove all caulk, cutting out the 1st layer as well. Then painting the wall, then taping the wall, then caulking?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by speedball1

My company has always used Dap White Tub and Tile Caulk, a latex product, with no problems. Regards, Tom

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Right, give the paint a couple of days to dry. Latex paint dries to the touch in about 30 minutes, to be handled in about an hour. BUT, it takes about 30 day to completely dry. So give it a couple of days so that the tape won't pull the paint off the wall.

I so know what he is trying to do with the tape and the caulk. He wants a nice neat caulk joint.

What everyone said above is true. The paint has to cure enough so that when you use "painters tape" it will not pull off the paint.

If the bathroom has high humidity, the paint takes longer to dry, so use a fan and keep it nice and dry in there.

Ditto on the amount of caulk as well. Less is better, and you can use latex and they have a latex/silicone caulk as well that is paintable.

If you painted over any previous caulking - it can be a bit tricky on using the tape to help you have a nice line - so you may have to it without it.

Also, forgot to add: I don't know if you are aware of this detail - but you can actually purchase tape that sticks very lightly to the wall and won't peel of the paint. HD sell them. I think it is orange tape.

There are a few tools at home depot for smoothing caulking. It is made of rubber or vinyl. They have multible angles so u have a chose of size of bead.

I personally like the wet finger teatment using damp sponge to remove excess.

Chuck

Also, if you are using tape, don't let the caulk dry completely before removing the tape. Test it just a little on one end. Do not get to picky about what happens. If you use tape to apply paint over the caulk after the caulk has completely dried - that may work as well so that you have an even paint line. I like being able to remove caulking when I need to replace it, and if there is paint over it, the caulk pulls it up of course. But you may be at the point of "THIS IS GOING IN THIS WAY BECAUSE I CAN'T DEAL WITH IT ANYMORE".

(grin)

Seems no matter where I go - the topic of applying caulk is a big subject.