Our home is 12 years old. We have had a leaky toilet problem in our 1/2 bath, downstairs, on concrete slab from day one. We've replaced wax rings more times that I can remember, and have always had a problem getting the toilet bolts to remain stable. I would really like to get it fixed correctly this time. When I removed the bowl this time, I noticed that the flange is cracked and a piece of it broken off. The flange goes into the pipe from the floor and seems pretty permanent to me. I believe it is an off set flange as the "hole" is not directly in the middle. (It's PVC). I tried prying the edges with a screwdriver, but it didn't budge and I don't want to to and irreversible damage. Now here is where I really need some advice - if you standing directly in front of the flange, as if you were facing the toilet bowl - the two slots that the toilet bolts are supposed to go through are directly in front of me - not one on each side. In other words, if you were to set the toilet down to line up with the slots for the bolts, the toilet would be turned sideways. I am wondering if this has been our problem all along. All extension flanges that I see always say to be sure and match up these two slots, which would be impossible for me to do. So - is there a flange that I can set on top of this one (I'm putting in tile, so it will need to be higher anyway) and NOT match up the two slots, or should I cut off the flange and put another one in the pipe? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I can get a picture of it to attach if that would help
Thanks,
Kelly

Hi Kelly,

If this were my problem I would take a 1/4" masonry bit and drill into the cement at the exact spot the closet bolts will go. I would then take 1/4" plastic inserts and install then in the holes. Now go to a plumbing shop and ask to purchase 2 wood screw type closet bolts. Screw the bolts into the plastic inserts and your flange problems are over for good. Regards, Tom

Tap Cons are a relatively new product. Tom's expansion bolts likely are a good idea, but many people are using the Tap Cons for masonry anchors now. Look for the blue things that look something like a sheet metal screw. Ask the guy at the hardware store what size masonry bit to use.

The problem with Tapcons is that they aren't closet bolts. Cheers, Tom

I think we are going to try and insert the screws like you said, however upon further investigation it looks like some of the concrete around the flange is broken up, right where the bolts will go. Can I fill this in with new concrete and then insert the bolts? Also, since the flange is broken, should I put a new on on it before I insert the bolts directly into the concrete, or are you saying that I don't need to use the flange since I'm going directly into the concrete?
Thanks,
Kelly

Hey Kelly,
Not many plumbers,(except us old timers) can remember setting toilets without flanges. The only function a toilet flange has is to secure the bowl to the floor. The plastic inserts will go down about 3/4". How much concrete is chipped away? The wood screw closet bolts will secure the bowl to the floor better then a PVC flange will. Just make sure you don't over tighten. China's very brittle and will crack if you put too much pressure on it. Rule of thumb when setting a toilet bowl is to quit tightening when you can no longer twist the bowl. Good luck, Tom

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Originally Posted by kellywood

Our home is 12 years old. We have had a leaky toilet problem in our 1/2 bath, downstairs, on concrete slab from day one. We've replaced wax rings more times that I can remember, and have always had a problem getting the toilet bolts to remain stable. I would really like to get it fixed correctly this time. When I removed the bowl this time, I noticed that the flange is cracked and a piece of it broken off. the flange goes into the pipe from the floor and seems pretty permanent to me. I believe it is an off set flange as the "hole" is not directly in the middle. (It's PVC). I tried prying the edges with a screwdriver, but it didn't budge and I don't want to to and irreversible damage. Now here is where I really need some advice - if you standing directly in front of the flange, as if you were facing the toilet bowl - the two slots that the toilet bolts are supposed to go through are directly in front of me - not one on each side. In other words, if you were to set the toilet down to line up with the slots for the bolts, the toilet would be turned sideways. I am wondering if this has been our problem all along. All extension flanges that I see always say to be sure and match up these two slots, which would be impossible for me to do. So - is there a flange that I can set on top of this one (I'm putting in tile, so it will need to be higher anyway) and NOT match up the two slots, or should I cut off the flange and put another one in the pipe? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I can get a picture of it to attach if that would help
Thanks,
Kelly

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There is a tool designed to quickly remove plastic (ABS or PVC) inside-mount toilet flanges. You can see a video of the tool being used at www.flangebuster.com.

Hope this helps...