I built my own rafters and roofing system for our 12x31 guest house.

Now we have a 2264 sf slab that will soon have ICF walls in early/mid-september.
The house has 3 basic areas and will have 3 gabled roof sections of 6/12 pitch. 2 of the 3 have a 20' span and the top plate height is 10'.
1 section is 16' span but will have a top plate height of 20'.

I want to buy roof trusses this time and do it all myself. Definitely the 10' high parts.
I might contract out the high part, we'll see.

I have googled the topic, searched this forum for "roof truss" and also read through some framing books.

I am in touch with a couple sources for roof trusses.

Anybody here put up roof trusses before?

Q1. What framing nail gun is best for this job? (I currently only have some finishing nail guns).

Q2. I will have 2x PT top plates but below that is ICF, not stick frame. I have seen various simpson ties, some need the normal 2x vertical wall. What is the best connector model or method to connect the roof truss to the top plate in my situation?

Q3. What are the typical bracing methods for interconnecting the trusses? 2x4 every 6feet with overlaps? Some braces alomng the bottom cord parallel to the ridge and some in the webs parallel to the ridge? Most of these roof trusses will be common trusses, some will be scissor trusses for an open ceiling cathedral ceiling effect. No attic storage space.

I am sure I will think of more questions once someone steps up...

Quote:

---

Anybody here put up roof trusses before?

---

Yep..
To be honest I started to answer this and as I was typing out the temp bracing and walking the plates to set the truss I started saying to myself. This really isn't a DiY for an unexperienced person. First off think of the cost of the truss/truck/crane. It takes two guys walking the skinny top plate and a least scab guys to follow add to that a tag line man on the ground. Setting truss on a house is not as easy as people think. Too many have fallen hurtl/killed and they were experienced men.

It also takes a "feel" for Temp bracing different truss designs.

Anybody there comfortable walking out on the 1 1/2" wide bottom cords to scab truss?

I would sub that this out period. A professional framing crew can have those truss up in no time.. Save your energy for safer projects there.

Get back if you really want to try this.

I don't think it is easy. I wish I had money to sit and watch someone else bust their hump for all aspects of building my house.
I have walked the roof and 12' top plate on our shed roof outbuilding guest house that we live in now.
But, I do see what you are kindly trying to say. I am calling for bids.
Maybe now you (and others) can share some insights and give me some background so I can be savvy and on the watch for the best quality bid.
Thanks.

Hi retiring Texas..

Quote:

---

I don't think it is easy. I wish I had money to sit and watch someone else bust their hump for all aspects of building my house.

---

I'm chuckling I do it for a living and I'm getting older and still walk the wall because I can't afford to sit and watch. I need to charge more.

I was trying to convey the cost in diff for truss crane time and speed to erect truss. Too many time a home owner calls me out because the got hurt bad or got way over there heads quick.

The bids are fairly basic. Hopefully you have your print. Ask for the wording according to print/speck blah blah $$$.
Now here's where that can get messy. If there is something a miss on the specs or truss designs order then obviously someone has to suck that up. So the choice here is for you to buy the truss and the contractor takes it from there or the contractor does it all. 3 to 4 bids is good. Make sure you have in writing a start date and finish date not to exceed. It does rain etc.

Another big one is Job Inspections from township/city. Make it very clear you need to see the actual inspection paper signed by the inspector. Introduce yourself to your local inspector and ask questions to create a re pore with him or her. Helps on being in the inspection loop.

NEVER make the last payment to the Contractor until contract is 100% fulfilled and ALL Inspections are passed and signed of on the inspection paper. This is where the re pore Comes in handy with the inspector. The inspection paper is a very important paper.



Basic to ask a contractor
1. Do you have ref I can call?
2. Have any Jobs I can look at?
3. Are you a current licensed contractor and ask to see the Card and check the number out
4. Ask for Prof of insurance for the Job and employees?
5. What's the guarantee on the workmanship?
6. What's the basic hourly rate if we run into extras?
7. What/how do you set up the payment schedules?


Payment Schedules is the Biggie. It needs to be balanced in your favor as well as his. Nothing like a balance incentive for both parties to work hard to get it done

If it gets strange I have a customer come with me to the bank and open an account with both names on it. That Way I know the monies there and its also tied up for him to keep on time to pay and keep it rolling. The biggets worry is the truss cost. If you pay to have the truss made then if a contractor skips you still have the truss.

Things changed so much since I started. I remember a hand shake was honorable and binding.

What about sub-the truss and do the decking yourself?
Or was that a no-brainer
Here's what goes into temp. braces wind speed,span some go over board on braces others are more risky you still here of them dominoeing and hurting people,I framed for 8 yrs and am young but wouldn't do it with out at least one good exp. Framer than a few helpers