Hello Everyone:)

I was on my way too the grocery store, when the my windstar van suddenly died? No hints to help me diagnose. No codes from my OMD II (is this right?) that my dad had bought for my birthday. It won't go into R, D, 1,2, despite starting and reving with no problems. I wish I could run start it like my dirt bike I had when I was a kid. My dad who lives like 500 miles from me said that I should go to this forum for help? Otherwise, he would make the drive next week to help. I have some basic knowledge of this windstar and have changed DFPI sensor, and Ford sold me some kit to get rid of p170 p171 OMD II codes so I did this but this gives me no codes. It figures I get my nails done, like the first time in a year and I know, it'll be grime and grit for the next little while. I really can't afford like 2000 dollars on another tranny!:(

Thanks

Jen

If it won't shift out of Park, read this link:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post1838065

If it won't move in gear, check the condition of the transmission fluid. If it isn't pink, but brown with a burnt smell, the transmission may need rebuilding. You may want to drop and clean the pan, inspect for signs of damage, and change the filter and refill with Mercon V (depending upon what you find out). It's even possible the transmission filter came loose from the transmission body--it's only held in by an O-ring. This would prevent the transmission body from drawing fluid from the pan. You never know what you'll find, unless you drop the pan.

Transmission problems are very difficult to assess from afar.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey

If it won't shift out of Park, read this link:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post1838065

If it won't move in gear, check the condition of the transmission fluid. If it isn't pink, but brown with a burnt smell, the transmission may need rebuilding. You may want to drop and clean the pan, inspect for signs of damage, change the filter, and refill with Mercon V (depending upon what you find out). It's even possible the transmission filter came loose from the transmission body--it's only held in by an O-ring. This would prevent the transmission body from drawing fluid from the pan. You never know what you'll find, unless you drop the pan.

Transmission problems are very difficult to assess from afar.

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Thanks GreaseMonkey

I will do that right now. It's about 88 degrees but I am going to do that right now. I like you mode of thinking: Simple first!

I will let you know what I find with pics.

Jennifer

Remember, transmission pan gaskets on most Fords are reuseable and superior to most of the aftermarket gaskets that come with transmission filters.

There are several links on changing transmission fluid and filter, in the General Automotive section of the Sticky, that may be of interest to you, should your transmission not need rebuilding. This link will, hopefully, allow you to drain the pan without making a mess:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post1873132

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey

Remember, transmission pan gaskets on most Fords are reuseable and superior to most of the aftermarket gaskets that come with transmission filters.

There are several links on changing transmission fluid and filter, in the General Automotive section of the Sticky, that may be of interest to you, should your transmission not need rebuilding. This link will, hopefully, allow you to drain the pan without making a mess:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post1873132

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Hi Grease monkey;

I dropped the pan and made a mess. I wish I would have read your post prior to reading the Haynes book! Anyway, the fluid looks redish if you ask me. The van still goes into D, R, 1,2 but will not move unless I push it. The filter seemed to be okay, had ribbed ring that got stuck that I removed but other then that I am perplexed. Maybe these pics will help. Thanks for your time!

Nice pictures and great job!

Here are some thoughts:

. Test all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multi-meter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

The transmission body looks surprisingly clean, even though the fluid has darkened. What did you find in the magnet and on the bottom of the pan? Just fine metal? Were there any significant metal chips or anything else noteworthy?

. Unless you saw something alarming, I would be inclined to clean the pan, install a new filter (coat O-ring with ATF), and refill with Mercon V. Afterwards, start engine and move the gear shift selector through each gear, pausing 5 seconds in each. It's possible the filter was clogged, preventing the necessary hydraulic pressures needed to function properly.

. If the problem persists, or you sense the gear selector is not working properly, I would check the Transmission Range Sensor, which is located under the hood and mounted on the transaxle. It senses the position of the gear selector, sending different voltage signals to the PCM for engine and transmission control. I'm leaning to this possibly being the problem. First, check it for looseness and check the connector.

. Even though the Check Engine Light (CEL) is not on, check for any code(s) that may have been stored in the PCM. There's a remote chance the CEL is not being triggered. By running the engine and attempting to change gears, you may be able to force it to "throw" a code, which will give you direction.

If you go this route, here's how to remove and install the TR Sensor:


Removal:

1. Disconnect battery ground cable.
2. Place control lever in Neutral (N).
3. Remove engine Air Cleaner and air cleaner outlet tube.
4. Disconnect electrical connector from Transmission Range (TR) Sensor.
5. Remove manual control lever from transaxle.
6. Remove TR Sensor retaining bolts (2).
7. Remove TR Sensor

Installation:

1. Make sure manual control lever is in Neutral (N).
2. Install TR Sensor and loosely install two retaining bolts.
3. Align TR Sensor slots using Transmission Range Sensor Alignment Tool
4. Tighten TR Sensor retaining bolts to 9-12 Nm (80-106 inch lbs.) and remove tool.
5. Connect electrical harness to TR sensor.
6. Install transaxle manual control lever. Tighten to 11-16 Nm (98-141 inch lbs.).
7. Install air cleaner outlet tube and engine air cleaner.
8. Connect battery ground cable.
9. Check for proper operation with parking brake control engaged. The engine should start only in Park (P) or Neutral (N).

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey

If you go this route, here's how to remove and install the TR Sensor:


Removal:

1. Disconnect battery ground cable.
2. Place control lever in Neutral (N).
3. Remove engine Air Cleaner and air cleaner outlet tube.
4. Disconnect electrical connector from Transmission Range (TR) Sensor.
5. Remove manual control lever from transaxle.
6. Remove TR Sensor retaining bolts (2).
7. Remove TR Sensor

Installation:

1. Make sure manual control lever is in Neutral (N).
2. Install TR Sensor and loosely install two retaining bolts.
3. Align TR Sensor slots using Transmission Range Sensor Alignment Tool
4. Tighten TR Sensor retaining bolts to 9-12 Nm (80-106 inch lbs.) and remove tool.
5. Connect electrical harness to TR sensor.
6. Install transaxle manual control lever. Tighten to 11-16 Nm (98-141 inch lbs.).
7. Install air cleaner outlet tube and engine air cleaner.
8. Connect battery ground cable.
9. Check for proper operation with parking brake control engaged. The engine should start only in Park (P) or Neutral (N).

---

Hello Greasemonkey;

I have attempted to install the TR Sensor and have little hair left. While removing the center bolt on the TR switch it appears that it may have not been into the groove properly in the first place? As I attempted to remove the old one it centre bolt moved a lot. Could this have caused misalignment? Anyway, it was set to neutral but I could only get it to fit by moving the position of the stick to park. Therefore, I guess it is misaligned. It will go through all the gears but still no movement in the front tires. Do I need to go buy an alignment tool to correct this?

Thanks a lot

Jenn

Yes, it could have caused misalignment. The TRS Alignment Tool is called for. However, I would hold off on buying one, if you can, until you see some life from the transmission. Did you install a new TR Sensor or attempt to just check out the old one? Did all of the fuses check out okay?

Did you observe anything noteworthy, when you dropped the pan? If not, did you install a new filter, replace the pan, and refill the transmission? It appears you must have.

Have you called your local Ford dealer and explained your situation to them? See if they can provide any direction.

Did you observe a lot of crud from the clutch packs in the pan?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey

Yes, it could have caused misalignment. The TRS Alignment Tool is called for. However, I would hold off on buying one, if you can, until you see some life from the transmission. Did you install a new TR Sensor or attempt to just check out the old one? Did all of the fuses check out okay?

Did you observe anything noteworthy, when you dropped the pan? If not, did you install a new filter, replace the pan, and refill the transmission? It appears you must have.

Have you called your local Ford dealer and explained your situation to them? See if they can provide any direction.

Did you observe a lot of crud from the clutch packs in the pan?

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Hey Greasemonkey:confused:

When I dropped the pan it had sludge around the magnet and teeny metal fragments stuck to it, about the size of a man's shavings after going two days without shaving only thinner (if this makes any sense?). Nothing noteworthy in the pan and the filter was changed and the pan with the original gasket that you recommended was put back on. I changed the TR sensor and I have a full range of gears? I think. I can start it in N and P but still no turning of the wheels when I apply gas. I did not check the fuses yet, or call ford yet. I will try those options first. Could it be the pump? If so, how do you check the pump? Would this cause me to suddenly lose all gears? Again, no pop like my Mazda 323 had at 400000k, that I felt but this was nothing. Almost like a fuse?

Can't thank you enough! :D

Your situation seems unusual, to me. Nothing too noteworthy in the pan to indicate anything really alarming, yet it doesn't move at all, even after replacing filter, fluid, and TR Sensor. Did you allow the transmission gear selector to pause 5 seconds in each gear, after you started the vehicle? The vehicle needs to be on level ground. If the front end is jacked up or it's on ramps, it needs to be lowered.

You definitely need to check all fuses with a test light or multi-meter.

Probable causes, when the engine runs but the car does not move in any gear, are shift cable broken or out of adjustment, oil pump worn or binding, regulator valve stuck, or ATF filter clogged (which we know is not a factor, since it was changed). The first and last cause we have addressed; the other two would require professional help.

Once you get this solved, only use Mobil 1 Synthetic Multi-Vehicle ATF or Amsoil Universal Synthetic ATF in your vehicle. Both fluids are Mercon V approved. They provide a "margin of safety" we all need with automatic transmissions. ATXs are the weak link on front-wheel drive vehicles. Change ATF and filter every 30,000 miles.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey

Your situation seems unusual, to me. Nothing too noteworthy in the pan to indicate anything really alarming, yet it doesn't move at all, even after replacing filter, fluid, and TR Sensor. Did you allow the transmission gear selector to pause 5 seconds in each gear, after you started the vehicle? The vehicle needs to be on level ground. If the front end is jacked up or it's on ramps, it needs to be lowered.

You definitely need to check all fuses with a test light or multi-meter.

Probable causes, when the engine runs but the car does not move in any gear, are shift cable broken or out of adjustment, oil pump worn or binding, regulator valve stuck, or ATF filter clogged (which we know is not a factor, since it was changed). The first and last cause we have addressed; the other two would require professional help.

Once you get this solved, only use Mobil 1 Synthetic Multi-Vehicle ATF or Amsoil Universal Synthetic ATF in your vehicle. Both fluids are Mercon V approved. They provide a "margin of safety" we all need with automatic transmissions. ATXs are the weak link on front-wheel drive vehicles. Change ATF and filter every 30,000 miles.

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Hey Greasemonkey;

I have one more question.

A transmission guy who called me ++sweetie++told me that it was a tranny problem and that I would be out 2000.00. When asked what else it could possibly be, it told me it could be a driveshaft oil pump, but it was beyond any women's capable hands. Is this true? I bet I could do it if I had a detailed insturctional. My friends husband said if I take off the left tire I could get at it. Do I need to take the driveshaft off? A book or a weblink would be awesome.

Thanks again for everything.

Jenn

Inch-by-inch, it's a cinch:

If any woman could do it, I would bet on you! I'm impressed with what you have already done. Where there's a will, there's a way. Before you tackle the job, however, scope it out by getting the shop manual for your vehicle. It will give you a reality check on what's involved. Spend a lot of time going over what's involved. My wife, a retired Air Force major, says go girl!

Here's how I would envision the procedure beginning, to gain access to the transaxle:

. Loosen left drive axle/hub nut (likely 30 mm) 1/4-turn.
. Place the van on jack stands, with the front stands under the rocker panels.
. Remove front left wheel.
. Remove wheel liner.
. Place floor jack under left subframe.
. Remove brake caliper, pads, caliper mounting bracket, and disc. Support caliper with a piece of wire.
. Detach tie-rod end from steering knuckle, by removing and discarding cotter pin, losening nut on tie-rod ball stud, and separating tie-rod end from steering knuckle with a puller.
. Remove ABS wheel speed sensor mounting bolt (Torx E8), then move sensor out of the way.
. Disconnect control arm from steering knuckle, by removing nut and using a puller to separate ball joint.
. Loosen both subframe bolts (likely 18 mm).
. Lower subframe 2 inches, keeping the pressure off the bolts by using the floor jack.
. Remove drive axle/hub nut (discard) and push drive axle from hub, using a two-jaw puller. Grasp axle shaft in one hand and pull hub and strut assembly out to separate nose of CV joint from hub.
. Insert pry bar or large screwdriver between inner CV joint housing and transaxle case. Pry out just far enough to release the circlip. Seat pry bar on a solid surface and avoid damaging the transaxle case.
. Support outer CV joint with one hand, grasp axle shaft with other hand, remove support wire, and guide axle clear of chassis.
. Remove strut-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt.
. Wiggle knuckle and hub assembly off the strut.
. Remove three upper strut mounting nuts.
. Guide strut and spring assembly out of wheel well.

All of the above only provides access to the transaxle. Again, don't hold me to these steps, since I've never worked on your vehicle before. That's why you absolutely need to get a shop manual. Day 1 might be the steps above. Day 2 might be working on the transaxle. Day 3 could be buttoning-up everything.

Wait... there is a servo in the rear of the trans... middle, a cover held on by three bolts. If the snap ring on this servo breaks it will not apply band and will not move from a stop but will when pushed to faster speed. I don't see it in any picture you sent its on the outside of the trans in the rear middle.

:confused:
What was the outcome? I have 2 1999 Windstars. On 1 the tranny will only go in 1st and R. The other I had a complete Tranny tune-up over a month ago. The tranny seemed to be doing fine. We took it on a few long trips and we drive it daily. The other day I was on my way to work and just as I pulled from a stop sign, I lost shifting. It feels like it's in Neutral. I want to start following the steps in this thread, but what is the outcome or current status? This is the most info I have found after a lot of research. Thanks.

PS. TxGreaseMonkey. I am also a John 3:16er DIYer. Right on!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey

Remember, transmission pan gaskets on most Fords are reuseable and superior to most of the aftermarket gaskets that come with transmission filters.

There are several links on changing transmission fluid and filter, in the General Automotive section of the Sticky, that may be of interest to you, should your transmission not need rebuilding. This link will, hopefully, allow you to drain the pan without making a mess:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post1873132

---

Hi TxGreaseMonkey,
I'm also a John 3:16er and I'm trying to be as much of DIYer as possible. The extent of my car experience is changing my brakes and changing my oil. I've got a 1999 Windstar as well and I seem to have found myself in the same situation Jen did, in this thread. I've already had my tranny rebuilt about 4 years ago. I've only put about 30,000 mi on it since and it seems to have just died. Something I do remember though, the night before I lost my transmission, I was trying to pass a large truck so I gave the van a bit of juice and felt a jolt as it tried to kick into a higher gear... I remember I didn't like the feel of that. And then the next day I was on my way to work. I pulled out of my driveway and made it past a couple lights and at the third set of lights, as I was coming out of the intersection, I was in drive but it felt like I was in neutral... gave it gas and the engine just revved, but no movement in the wheels. I was lucky enough to coast into a gas station.

Can you give me some adivce... remembering I'm not to knowledgeable under the car.

Thanks
bakatak-70

bakatak-70,
Wow, that's almost exactly what happened to me. I'm online for the next 6 hours. We should share info.

Hi JRNYJUNK,

I know, I read your post as well and thought, "that's really funny"... not, "hahah", but interesting ;)
I was told by a mechanic that I should first try draining the transmission fluid and refilling and adding an additive to it before I go out and get a new tranny (again). I know I could do it with a little guidance, but I've never changed the transmission fluid on my windstar before so I don't really know where to begin.

Have you tried anything yet or is your windstar just sitting in your driveway like mine?

Thanks for your response, and I'll make sure to keep you posted on my progress.

bakatak-70

bakatak-70, it's extremely difficult to advise on transmission problems, in situations like your's and JRNYJUNK's. Be sure to check for codes, however, to see if that provides any direction. It's likely best to have a local transmission specialist examine the transmission. Ford will only install a rebuilt transmission, which comes with a 12-month warranty.

I frequently advise people that automatic transmissions on FWD vehicles are the weak link. Accordingly, I recommend using Mobil 1 Synthetic Multi-Vehicle ATF or Amsoil Universal Synthetic ATF. Drop and clean the pan, change the filter, and change all of the fluid every 30,000 miles. Here's an easy way for a do-it-yourselfer to perform this very important task:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post1873132

Probable causes, when the engine runs but the car does not move in any gear, are shift cable broken or out of adjustment, oil pump worn or binding, regulator valve stuck, or ATF filter clogged. Most transmission work, outside of changing the fluid and filter, is beyond the average do-it-yourselfer and should be left to a professional. The lesson from these experiences is to adopt the best preventive maintenance program you can.

Thanks so much for the advice TxGreaseMonkey!
I'm going to take it a step at a time starting with dropping the pan and refilling the oil.

Take care. I'll keep you posted.
Peace out.
bakatak-70