Got a troy bilt mower, bought in August 2007. Never had battery troubles till now. How ever I think its battery and ignition switch... battery won't jump or show as full charged on charger, but lost key for a week or so ansd used another item to start. It was turning over but with not enough juice to crank, now it won't do nothing... I know I need a new battery but HOW do I change the ignition switch out I don't know .

Can anyone tell me please...

Hi,
I will post a picture of the two common keys; tell me which you have, or give model numbers to machine.
Peace,
Clarke

My key is metal all over. End is shaped like your key with black cover... I took ignition switch out. It was all messed up from using screw driver to crank when key was lost... I figure battery is main trouble, yet no doubt need new ignition switch. Figure once I put new batt in and new switch I will be in business.

Hi,
Two switches available depending on Reverse Caution Mode (RMC.)
MTD #725-1741 w/ RMC
MTD #725-04227B w/o RMC
Peace,
Clarke
PS Screwdrivers are a no-no. I know they work, but most anything but the correct key will cause damage (and you can often get a pair for $1.50)

I know mine shuts off if blades engaged and put in reverse. You have to this engage 1st. I know all to well about screwdrivers messing it up, only use it 3xs. Boyfriend helped finish switch off with one.. are you telling me you got them? Or what the part numbers are won't be able to get back to you till after 530 pm eastern time. I found my key.. but got to have new ones now.. when I get the new switch does the outside piece that you put the key in by the steering wheel got to be change? Or is it OK? Thanks for your help

Hi,
Sinc your machine turns off with the deck on and put into reverse, you should have the RMC. This is fortunate for you as the other costs three times as much.
MTD #725-1741 changes to #927-1741
Stens #430-445 aftermarket
Oregonchain #33-376 aftermarket
But the key costs more; the Indak is about what I said, the Delta is about double for one.
Switches average about $20. Check the dealers in your area in the Yellow Pages under Lawn Mower... or online with a search engine. This switch is used in other brands, also. Plugging in the two aftermarket names into the middle of a URL will give you their sites, search by part number and you can get other brand part numbers. Just in case you do not know and by no means a sales blurb, Sears now has the largest parts inventory. You could also try Home Depot, Lowe's, Sears, etc. in person as they may carry it as a part (key especially) and be least expensive.
Important consideration is 7 prong, four position.
If you do not have a hole in the dash that is 1 1/2 - 2" in diameter, you have not removed the whole switch. The pictures attached will show that there are two squeeze-in tabs on each side that release the casing and then it slips outward.
Peace,
Clarke

I got switch and put the whole thing in myself, however bought a recycled battery till pay day. Won't crank still. Battery don't register on charger, taking it back and going to get new battery think that will solve issue? Got a delta key, it turns the new switch.

Hi,
Well batteries are normally tested with a load tester; but if it does not respond to a charger that means only two things. Either it has an open or the plates no longer have a potential between them. Clear as mud, right?
Open means no connection. Potential refers to the chemical design of the plates, generally coated with two different chemicals (lead oxide and lead sulfate) and the deposition of the chemicals back and forth between them. If they are not right, nothing happens.
I know of a business in my hometown that sold "refurbished" or used batteries. They will not make any claims that they cannot show you. Test the battery in front of you; sell you a 300 CCA for a 190 CCA because that is what it tests to on the load tester. They were bought but were great for a teenager who could not afford much.
If they did not show you the battery under load before you bought it, I would be "back in their face) over it. That is how everybody checks them; voltage is insignificant if it cannot delivery it when it has to deliver enough amperage to crank the machine.
Peace,
Clarke

Hey bought a brand new batttery, took old one back, got refund, it too was a full charged one... my charger is bad... however, have determined I have either a blown fuse, or bad Snoid. Just got in gone relax s few and go at it and see if new fuse and new battery fixs. Any other suggestions are welcome if you can think of any other issues it could be, have no way to transport to a shop, Im on my own with it. Heard it could be safety switch 1 of 3 but mechanis thinks it s aimple issue.. let me know... thks.

I got new battery in and checked switch, put new fuse in and now its blowing fuses , can you tell me if you think it's the switch I put in? Or what I am having trouble after trouble, I made sure it was in as far as it could go..

Hi,
Fuse protects the wiring harness, but is also the supply of voltage (and current) to operate the solenoid.
To test the solenoid I use a piece of 14 ga. Wire that I use to jump from the large post that the battery connects to to the small post that triggers the solenoid. If it trips and a good fuse is in place; it is in a safety switch or wiring between them.
Peace,
Clarke