I have a JD GT 225 about 4 years old. It had been working and then when I came back to it a week later it would not start. I replaced the fuel filter and I am getting gas past it. If I pump the throttle to long I can smell gas. I removed the spark plug and it was slightly wet. Grounding the spark plugs electrode I get a good spark. I have even tried spraying the Carb with starter fluid. I still didn't even get an attempt to turn over. What else can I try?

I have a John Deere GT 225 mower, been having trouble with it starting. Start then run for about 30 minutes then stop and I have to clean carburetor out for it to start again. About year ago I got oil in the gas lines, cap not on tight, since then have changed all the filters, ignition coil, and carburetor. It cranks but will not turn over, any suggestion on what I should do now. What should the carburetor be set at.

Hi,
We seem to have two related questions, though there is some confusion in both with terms. "Turn over..." means the engine spins and should not be confused with "cranking" which is running.
These machines have one of two possible versions of the Kohler Command OHV single. The one thing about this engine is that it "hates" to be shut down at full speed. It will slowly shear the flywheel key. This can easily happen when you turn it off one week and then it will not run the next week. It will usually pop or sound like it is trying to do something, but it is out of time.
This engine should be throttled down for 20 seconds before cutting it off.
Peace,
Clarke

I have a John Deere GT225. I'm having a problem with it blowing the resister on the circuit board. I can not figure out what is causing it. Has anyone ever seen this before?

Hi,
Deere Parts is mostly down. Something is drawing too much current through that resistor though. A likey culprit is the electric PTO clutch.
Peace,
Clarke

For folks with the "it turns over, but pops and backfires and won't start" complaint , here is what's wrong,. mice have built nests inside the shrouding that encases the cylinder, the engine gets way hot, loosens up exhaust valve seat which is hardened steel, head is aluminum,. heat up head around seat with a torch (of course with head on your bench), use a punch and get the seat back in it's place, peen over the aluminum maybe 6 spots around the seat (just for extra precaution for seat to stay put), cut valve and valve seat so their matched again, CLEAN OUT ALL MOUSE NESTS AROUND ENGINE, REPEAT EVERY SPRING!! I know it's a pain to have to dismantle shrouding around engine, but, well, you now know the consequences if you don't.

Hi,
Seen the mouse nests before though they are are and indicative of where the machine is stored. They should be suspected if the presence of mice is indicated. They will chew through the high tension lead of the armature as well.
Peace,
Clarke