The wiring in this house is very old and needs to be upgraded. I don't want to remove all the plaster so I'm considering cutting multiple pathways (say 12 inches above the floor) around each room to run new wiring. Additionally I will cut similar pathways for wall switches and overhead lighting. So the question is how to go about doing this?

My thought was to set 2 parallel lines around the room (say 4-inches apart) then slowly run a cordless circular saw around the bottom line first. Then using duct tape, tape over that particular cut to prevent viberation causing the brittle plaster to crack. Now cut the top line with the curcular saw - hopefully the plaster will fall out... Now using a Saws-All remove the lats. Result = hopefully a pathway to begin drilling holes in the studs to run wires.

CONCERNS: Hitting the nails in the lats with the circular saw blade. Oh yes I plan on cutting the power to each room before making any cuts.

So what do you think?

Do u have access from basement or attic to areas u want to rewire?

Chuck

A new 100amp breaker pannel was installed in a common storage closet off the 2nd floor hallway. The back of that closet abuts a small bedroom closet that is being eliminated to make a larger living room. From the closet we are eliminating I can easily access all the rooms in the apartment - hense the idea of cutting pathways. Also ater the electrical upgrade is completed we plan to cover all the walls & ceiling with 1/2-inch sheetrock to cover the remaining horsehair plaster which I migh add has seen better days.

A new 100amp breaker pannel was installed in a common storage closet off the 2nd floor hallway. The back of that closet abuts a small bedroom closet that is being eliminated to make a larger living room. From the closet we are eliminating I can easily access all the rooms in the apartment - hense the idea of cutting pathways. Also ater the electrical upgrade is completed we plan to cover all the walls & ceiling with 1/2-inch sheetrock to cover the remaining horsehair plaster which I migh add has seen better days.

A new 100amp breaker pannel was installed in a common storage closet off the 2nd floor hallway. The back of that closet abuts a small bedroom closet that is being eliminated to make a larger living room. From the closet we are eliminating I can easily access all the rooms in the apartment - hense the idea of cutting pathways. Also ater the electrical upgrade is completed we plan to cover all the walls & ceiling with 1/2-inch sheetrock to cover the remaining horsehair plaster which I migh add has seen better days.

A new 100amp breaker pannel was installed in a common storage closet off the 2nd floor hallway. The back of that closet abuts a small bedroom closet that is being eliminated to make a larger living room. From the closet we are eliminating I can easily access all the rooms in the apartment - hense the idea of cutting pathways. Also ater the electrical upgrade is completed we plan to cover all the walls & ceiling with 1/2-inch sheetrock to cover the remaining horsehair plaster which I migh add has seen better days.

A new 100amp breaker pannel was installed in a common storage closet off the 2nd floor hallway. The back of that closet abuts a small bedroom closet that is being eliminated to make a larger living room. From the closet we are eliminating I can easily access all the rooms in the apartment - hense the idea of cutting pathways. Also ater the electrical upgrade is completed we plan to cover all the walls & ceiling with 1/2-inch sheetrock to cover the remaining horsehair plaster which I migh add has seen better days.

A new 100amp breaker pannel was installed in a common storage closet off the 2nd floor hallway. The back of that closet abuts a small bedroom closet that is being eliminated to make a larger living room. From the closet we are eliminating I can easily access all the rooms in the apartment - hense the idea of cutting pathways. Also ater the electrical upgrade is completed we plan to cover all the walls & ceiling with 1/2-inch sheetrock to cover the remaining horsehair plaster which I migh add has seen better days.

First off determine which way the lath runs which can be an issue. On the some of our rehabs we pull the base board and run the wire feed behind that. Saves a lot of plaster cutting.

The dust in there is going to be horrendous to say the least when cutting. Now that you accepted that forget the circ saw. I use a 4" diamond grinder to cut the plaster. Makes a nice clean line and Never shakes/chips the plaster. If you have a '"Harbor Freight" around they have a copy of the Finn tool that's cheap. It will cut the lath and the plaster for the wall switches and outlets.
- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
Lowe's carries them but Harbor Freight is way cheaper..

So pop the baseboard, especially since you are drywalling over the wall. Add some lath onto the exposed baseboard studs to flush to the plaster and drywall. Think how easy it is not having to cut the bottom of the drywall to meet baseboard heights.

I think my approch would be a little different. They are a little expensive but I'd get a 6" hole saw. Cut a 6" hole through th eplaster at each stud, cut a 1" notch in the stud. Run my fish tape from hole to hole, use a cloths hanger to hook it from the next hole. Pull my wire and put in nail plates. If the cut out plaster remains intact put it back in the hole as a filler with joint compound.

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They are a little expensive but I'd get a 6" hole saw.

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$ 60 to $100 dollars a piece not to mention the mandrel you need to use that size hole saw. Cutting plaster is basically cutting concrete.

If you have a whole room a hole saw will wear out so quick. We use them to cut holes in plaster ceilings for can lights. At times I only get 1 1/2 to 2 holes per hole saw bits. Gets Real expensive Quick...

The other reason we remove base board more then not is having enough access to drill straight holes in the studs to stay within codes and also to reach up in the wall to slip a conduct down into the wall switch hole to bottom plate area. Its all about not being able to staple it to code in lengths. Or cut out more plaster on those verticals and not saving the plaster walls

Bill43lake.. Personally since drywall is going over the whole wall I would use short sazall blades and rough it in. It doesn't matter if the plaster cracks or not. You need to screw the drywall with long drywall screws to hit studs. Construction adhesive on the plaster.
Use a hammer and punch through the wall to check for mechanicals in wall then sawzall. What you are doing here is done on our rehab sites all the time. In the old houses, to get insulation in the plaster sloped attic walls we cut out sections between roof rafters and pull faced insulation through the laddered holes and then drywall. A lot of the house we work on 1800/1900s have no electric to many of rooms. Never woried about the plaster that much because it all gets drywall. As long as it fairly intact in places no worries here.