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-   -   Cold water tank (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=384011)

  • Aug 6, 2009, 07:00 AM
    valry1111
    Cold water tank
    I have to replace the air pressure in the cold water tank that I have drained from the system until I heard all the water and air leave. I just need to know how much pressure I need to put back in before I flip the breaker switch which makes the pump refill the tank. I can not stand the constant clicking of the pump cutting in and out and someone told me I have put air in the tank, that this would stop the pump from cutting in and out so often.

    Is it possible for your site to have sub-categories under each of the main categories so the readers do not have to read through all the questions under e.g.. Plumbing. Such as a sub-category on just "toilets" or "kitchen sinks" or just "faucets". I am just asking.
  • Aug 6, 2009, 07:52 AM
    speedball1
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by valry1111 View Post
    I have to replace the air pressure in the cold water tank that I have drained from the system until I heard all the water and air leave. I just need to know how much pressure I need to put back in before I flip the breaker switch which makes the pump refill the tank. I can not stand the constant clicking of the pump cutting in and out and someone told me I have put air in the tank, that this would stop the pump from cutting in and out so often.

    Is it possible for your site to have sub-categories under each of the main categories so the readers do not have to read through all the questions under eg. Plumbing. Such as a sub-category on just "toilets" or "kitchen sinks" or just "faucets". I am just asking.

    Are we talking about a galvanized pressure tank or a bladder tank.(see images) Let me know, Tom
  • Aug 6, 2009, 09:54 AM
    valry1111
    It is the galvanized pressure tank . It has the attachment on top where you attach the air compresser hose to fill the tank
  • Aug 6, 2009, 12:10 PM
    speedball1
    If the tank's empty it won't have to be charged for the first time. The water filling the tank will compress the auir in the top. The snifter valve optop of the tank is for recharging the tank as it becomes water logged. So it won't have to be drained down each time it's recharged.
    Quote:

    someone told me I have put air in the tank, that this would stop the pump from cutting in and out so often
    Correct! To recharge the tank but if it's empty you already have air in the tank. Just fill it and it will be charged. Banging on the side or if your pump cycles every time you make a draw will tell tyou when tirecharge from the snifter valve. For now just fill the tank and you'll be fine. About your idea, I'll put it up to the powers that be. Thanks Tom
  • Aug 6, 2009, 01:56 PM
    valry1111
    I have tried to find out from others what the pressure should be but no one can tell me. So today I have attached the air compresser hose and filled the tank until it read 10 on the gage. The tank was cutting in every 26 seconds and every 6 seconds. Once I put in the air it cut in every 53 seconds and every 13 seconds. So now my question is should I have put more air in the tank than just 10 pressure? I don't know how much to put in so I don't cause any damage. If any one knows please tell me.
  • Aug 6, 2009, 02:51 PM
    jlisenbe

    Val, the correct way to do it is to simply drain the tank with the power off. Then turn the power back on. Draining the tank of water will allow it to refill with air. However, you can be certain the problem will reappear, the reason being that the air in the tank will gradually dissolve into the water over a period of several weeks and you will be back to the pump cutting on/off frequently, referred to a "short cycling". Most systems with tanks like yours are designed to recharge the tank with air every time the pump cuts on, thus solving the problem. Yours evidently does not do that or is supposed to but doesn't work. You can solve this in one of two ways:

    1. Install a new bladder tank. Those tanks are designed with a flexible membrane in the tank which separates the water from the air. They are pretty much maintenance free.
    2. Drain the tank every few weeks as described above.

    As to the pressure reading, you should be getting the same air pressure reading from the valve on the tank as that which is shown on your pressure gauge. In other words, the pump should pump up to some preset limit, say 50#, and then shut off, which would give you a pressure reading of 50# in the tank. That is the purpose of your tank, to store water under pressure.

    This site will give you a little more info on how your well works.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_well
  • Aug 6, 2009, 04:04 PM
    speedball1
    Quote:

    I have tried to find out from others what the pressure should be but no one can tell me.
    Valry, Everone has told you!! I told you, jlisenbe's told you, how many more people do you need to tell you that, Val, the correct way to do it is to simply drain the tank with the power off. Then turn the power back on. Draining the tank of water will allow it to refill with air. If the tank's empty it won't have to be charged for the first time. The water filling the tank will compress the auir in the top. The snifter valve optop of the tank is for recharging the tank as it becomes water logged. so it won't have to be drained down each time it's recharged.
    I don't know what more we can do if you won't listen to our advice. Tom
  • Aug 6, 2009, 07:53 PM
    hkstroud

    When you drain the tank, in addition to opening a drain valve you must also open a faucet or something else to let air in the tank. If you don't let air in the water won't come out. Rather than timing how long the pump runs, tell us what pressure it comes on and goes off. There should be about a 20# difference in cut in and cut off. Cut in at 30# cut off at 50# or cut in at 40# and cut off at 60#.

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