We live in the NC mountains- Well depth of 180', casing 68' - there is no storage tank.
No problems until recently- 20A breaker "pops" for no apparent reason. Pressure gauge pins to max (100+)- I guess the pump energizes as soon as a water tap is opened. Is this condition normal ? And why is the breaker "popping"- It doesn't do it often, and usually while there is no water running. Thank you for your help! George

Quote:

---

I guess the pump energizes as soon as a water tap is opened. Is this condition normal

---

This tells me the bladder tank's gone bad or it needs to be recharged. Let me explain the function of a bladder tank. Pressure and bladder tanks provide a air cushion that produces water pressure in your system so your pump doesn't kick on every time you draw a glass of water. A bladder tank has a neoprene membrane in the center. As the pump puts water into the bottom half of the bladder tank the membrane compresses the air in the top half. When the pressure reaches the cut off point in the control box the pump shuts down. However you still have between 40 to 50 pounds of pressure pushing the water out to your system. As the pressure drops in the tank when you make a draw the pump kicks on and everything starts over again.
To check, take something metal and start rapping at the bottom of the tank and work upwards. You will hear a "clunk" in the bottom half full of water. On the upper half you should hear a "clink" because the upper half should have nothing but air in it. IF the sound doesn't change or changes close to to tank top then the bladder tank must be replaced. Your air setting on the tank should be 2 pounds UNDER the cut in point in the pressure control box. If your pressure control has a 20 PSI cut in and 40 PSI cut out the tank pressure should read 18 PSI. The bladder tank setting MUST be made with the pump off and the system bled down by opening a cold water faucet after you shut the system down at the breaker box.

Quote:

---

Pressure gauge pins to max (100+)-

---

Sounds like the contacts are sticking in the control box causing the motor to overheat and throw the breaker.

Bottom line? I would replace the control box and check the bladder tank and replace that also if it checks bad. Good luck, Tom

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by George39

there is no storage tank

---

Does that mean that there is no tank at all?

Yes, there is no tank at all. As far as I can determine, we turn the water on, the pump comes on - turn the water off, and it stops.

Turn breaker off, open pressure switch and file points and hope that that corrects your problem. Get a tank, you are definitely shortening the life of you pump motor. Surprised that its still running.

Want to know what it cost to pull 200 foot of well pipe and replace a 5hp pump and motor? Just ask. Believe me a tank is a lot cheaper.

George, something just doesn't sound right about that. I suppose a system could be set up like that, but it makes no sense at all. If your pump is truly running at 100# pressure, that should be REALLY noticeable in your house. You would have pressure far beyond what most people experience. Your pump, as HK noted, is being misused terribly. Do you know where your switch is?