The previous owner of our house moved the wall behind the toilet back over 4" & put in a round toilet. I wanted to get an elongated bowl but it would stick out too far into the door way in such a small bathroom. So we bought a KOHLER Cimarron White Round Complete Toilet Model: 11465-0 to replace the old WC. After doing some research online I find out that as good as this WC flushes it leaves 'stuff' on the back of the bowl. My wife already informed me that I should have looked into this a bit more before buying it.
OH WELL, Stuff happens!

Since we have not even opened the box it will not be a problem to return it. I would really like to get an elongated ADA toilet. Can I use an offset flange & move the new bowl back 2"? (More if possible) Moving it back would allow an elongated bowl & not such a huge space behind the tank The current bowl waste line is 4 "PVC T straight down
about 9" into cast iron pipe. Off the T is a PVC extension & the a rubber coupling to the original cast iron vent pipe.

Hopefully this description makes sense to someone besides me.

I know Toto makes an extension for their toilets, but a Toto is not in out current price range.

Thanks in advance for any & all input.
Lou

Hi Lou...

I need to know the measurement from the finished wall to the center of the toilet bolts (or the center of the closet flange).

If 12" to 14" (or more) then you can move the toilet back anywhere between 1.5" to 2" depending on which PVC offset flange you can get your hands on... see image.

If 14" from finished wall to the center of the toilet bolts then you are in ideal position to move the toilet back easily and end up purchasing any common 12" rough in toilet that you want (regular prices prevail).

If 12" from finished wall to center of toilet bolts then you could offset back no problem but then you would need a 10" rough in toilet and that is usually special order and costs extra money, for sure..

If 10" or less then you are stuck with what you have as they only make one or two 8" rough in toilets and they are just priced ridiculously!. ;)

Let us know if you have more questions on this...

MARK

Mark,

WOW, thanks for the super quick reply.

The space from the wall to the center bolts is 15.5".
I thought I read someplace that there is a problem with leaking using offset flanges. But then again I've read so much info in the last few days that I feel like I was a kid again cramming for a test.

Lou

Hi Lou:

The biggest problem with offset flanges is associated with the older cast iron type of offset flange where installing the OAKUM can be difficult due to the angle of the inside joint... ;)

With PVC offset flanges there is absolutely no issues with leaking!

If you can find a 2" PVC offset flange that would put you at 13.5" off the finished wall which would be just perfect for a 14" rough in toilet... ;)

MARK

I tried to rate your answers but the system would not allow it.

Not real important... ;) But thanks for trying! Pop back anytime.

MARK

Mark,
May I ask your opinion of the KOHLER Cimarron class5 ? I understand it flushes pretty good, but I'm concerned about the "fact" that I can't use a plunger if it does clog up.

Hope you have a magical week ahead.
Lou

Hi Lou:

I'm a big fan of toto toilets... then kohler toilets and then american standard toilets. I've only installed 2 cimarron toilets... didn't have any issues or complaints.

I did a quick review of the cimarron online and found as many complaints as I found approvals... so hard to offer much here.

All in all, I figure if you find a toilet that looks good and you like it then you will find a way to make it work for you. Hope that makes sense.

MARK

Mark,
I'm going to ask you a (semi) dumb question. Is it feasible to move my toilet back to the wall using 2 degree bends not together as a 90 but kind of one turned opposite & then also use any offset flange. I have a 15.5" rough in & only a 12" toilet. Or am I thinking too much along the Rube Goldberg lines?

Again thanks in advance, I really appreciate your info,
Lou

Not even close to semi. Dumb... ;)

You said you had about 9" from the flange to the rubber clamp below. Even if you use STREET 45s or street 22.5 degree fittings and an offset flange I don't think 9" will work....I don't even think it's close!

Maybe you can reduce the 4" to 3"...that would improve things. How much more room between the rubber clamp and the cast iron hub below it?? If you cut this lower and reduce to 3" you may be able to accomplish the 12". Let me know...

MARK

Mark,

Thanks for bring me back to reality. I'm just going to use an offset flange move the toilet back 1.5" (or hopefully 2") that way I can get an elongated bowl. As for the space behind the bowl we had a shelf that spanned a space of 3.5' side to side behind the bowl & we decided that we want to keep that shelf for tissues & stuff. Again thanks for you patience & advice.

Lou

Thanks for popping back to catch me up! Good luck!