How do I remove the lead seal ring on a horizontal 4" cast iron sewer pile? It's in a pretty confined area, between a floor and a ceiling. The flange end of the stand pipe will stay. Once th old PC. Is removed, how can I seal a PVC section to the cast iron?

Woody

Hi Woody:

You would take a drill and a 3/8" drill bit (or smaller) and drill a series of holes through the lead (about 1.5" deep) until you are able to get a large flat screwdriver under the lead and start to pry the lead ring up and out. Once you get it started you can use a hammer to hit the screwdriver to increase your leverage power. Be careful NOT to hit the hammer so hard against the cast iron hub that it breaks the cast iron... ;)

Once the lead is out you will need to remove the OAKUM material under the lead... this pries up and out easily as it is an oily/fibrous material.

Be sure to support the weight of the horizontal piping on each side of the pipes to be removed. Be clear that this is heavy work and can be dangerous so be sure to support any of the VERTICAL LOAD on these pipes before cutting into the pipe.

After the pipe is removed you could install a PVC MANHOFF fitting , OAKUM, and PLASTIC SEAL (see images) into the hub to transition over to PVC. Check out post #3 and #6 below for more information on this product and how to install the oakum material.

Another alternative here would be to use a sawzall with bimetal blades to cut the cast iron pipe and the cast iron hub out and then use SHIELDED CLAMPS to transition over to PVC (see image).

Let us know if you have questions...

MARK

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After the pipe is removed you could install a PVC MANHOFF fitting and some SOIL SEAL into the hub to transition over to PVC.

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Hey Woody,
Ya got to realize that lead, (Hercules Plastic Seal)(see image) doesn't make the joint water proof from leaks. It's the packed oakum, (see image) swelling up in the joint that makes it leak proof. The lead simply holds the packed oakum tightly in the joint. I'm told this type of joint deesn't need to be caulked but when the okum swells what's going to keep it from pushing the Plastic Seal out? Pardon the stupid question but I'm a poured and caulked lead and oakum guy. Good luck, Tom

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Originally Posted by massplumber2008

Hi Woody:

You would take a drill and a 3/8" drill bit (or smaller) and drill a series of holes through the lead (about 1.5" deep) until you are able to get a large flat screwdriver under the lead and start to pry the lead ring up and out. Once you get it started you can use a hammer to hit the screwdriver to increase your leverage power. Be careful NOT to hit the hammer so hard against the cast iron hub that it breaks the cast iron...;)

Once the lead is out you will need to remove the OAKUM material under the lead...this pries up and out easily as it is an oily/fibrous material.

Be sure to support the weight of the horizontal piping on each side of the pipes to be removed. Be clear that this is heavy work and can be dangerous so be sure to support any of the VERTICAL LOAD on these pipes before cutting into the pipe.

After the pipe is removed you could install a PVC MANHOFF fitting and some SOIL SEAL (see images) into the hub to transition over to PVC.

Another alternative here would be to use a sawzall with bimetal blades to cut the cast iron pipe and the cast iron hub out and then use SHIELDED CLAMPS to transition over to PVC (see image).

Let us know if you have questions...

MARK

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Thanks, Mark. That advice is going to make this repair a lot less costly... if I don't make too many mistakes. ;)
Woody

Hi all:

YUP...need the oakum rope here...but no need to pack the plastic seal after it is installed.

A better product in this case is actually the PLASTIC SEAL... see image. Check out the website for more info.:

Google Image Result for http://www.pexsupply.com/img/productImages/Hercules-plastic-seal.gif

This is specifically made for joining a cast iron hub to PVC plastic pipe, but yeah... need the oakum! Thanks Tom... forgot to mention the oakum!

Woody, please reread post #2 as I revised it a bit!

MARK

Thanks to all, this is where Im at in a repair. Had the thought of oakum, but any tool I used cut through the rope while trying to pack it. Is there a special tool needed or am I overthinking? Thanks again

Hi MON32...

You're right! You need a special packing iron for packing oakum... called a spring or an offset yarning iron... see images.

These irons come in a leading kit (see image), but you won't need the kit for your job.

You can find these at a local plumbing supply store or you could even make a yarding iron by dulling up an old, long 3/4" wood chisel... maybe? Otherwise, pick an iron up... maybe $12.00 or so. Be careful not to overpack the oakum and "CRACK" the hub of the cast iron, OK?

Questions? Let us know...

Mark