Ask Me Help Desk - A few toilet issues

I have a house that was build in 1984 in Worcester, MA and I’m on city water & sewer. I bought it in December, 2002.

I don’t see any brand or model numbers for the toilet itself but there are some inscriptions on the internal tank components. “Fluidmaster” is written on the incoming water pipe/float top. The donut float that goes around it says “Model 400A”.

I have a few toilet issues that I’m wondering about. First is the lack of force available to flush solid waste, sometimes takes 2-3 flushes to get it all out. I also sometimes have a howl as the tank fills back up but usually not. Once in a long while (hasn’t happened in months, maybe not since last year) it will not stop trying to fill up the tank even though the short arm is all the way up. It is going into the overflow at that point. Nothing special happens when it decides to stop filling the tank, the arm doesn’t move. It doesn’t have a long rod with a float but rather a short arm (less than 2” long) with a vertical rod and a donut around the vertical pipe. It always fills up to the same location but that is over an inch below the overflow inlet. And my newest issue is a leak at the incoming water pipe under the toilet. If I shut off the water valve that is 6” below it the leak stops so that’s what I do. That is within the last 2 weeks and I’m guessing completely unrelated to the other issues, just a seal on the white plastic piece. There are some deposits in the tank so mineral build up is a possibility.

Are the flushing and howl issue related or is the flushing just an inability to get water from the tank to the bowl fast enough? What causes the howl, the toilet or the house plumbing? No such noises at any other locations in the house.

Really, I stumped everyone with this one? :)

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=Majoria;1873010]Really, I stumped everyone with this one? :)

Nah! I just saved you for starting the next day.
Let's take them one by one
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First is the lack of force available to flush solid waste, sometimes takes 2-3 flushes to get it all out.

I have one that most repair plumbers miss.. Look down at the bottom of the bowl. If there is a small hole, then that is a jet that starts the syphon action. If it's clogged the water will just swirl around and slowly go down leaving solids behind. Take your finger,(UGH! ) and run it around the inside of the opening. Over the years minerals build up and cut down on the syphon (flush) action. If it is rough or you feel build up, take a table knife and put a bend in it to get around the curve in the bowl and chip and scrap it clear. Next take a coathanger and clear out the holes around the rim. They start the swirling action. And last, check the water level in the tank. It should be 1/2" below the top of the over flow tube. And speaking of the overflow tube, Make sure the small 1/8" tube from the ballcock to the white overflow tube is connected so it discharges in it and that it's flowing when the ballcock fills. This is what raises the water level in the bowl. For a good solid flush they all have to work together.

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it will not stop trying to fill up the tank even though the short arm is all the way up. It is going into the overflow at that point.

There are two clips that secure the float can to the wire.
These are the adjustments,(see image) that control how high the water raises in the tank before it shuts off. Squeezing the clips and lowering the float can will drop the water level in the tank. The lower you set the can the lower the level in your tank. By the same token raising the float can will also raise the tank level

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my newest issue is a leak at the incoming water pipe under the toilet. If I shut off the water valve that is 6” below it the leak stops so that’s what I do. That is within the last 2 weeks and I’m guessing completely unrelated to the other issues, just a seal on the white plastic piece. There

Snug up the nuts and see if the leak doesn't go away.
Since you haven't heard the howl for months if it starts again click on back aqnd we'll tear into the ballcock. Good luck, Tom

There is no hole in the lower portion of the bowl. I know the one you're referring to but there is not one on this model.

I adjusted the water level as best I can, the donut can only go up so high as it will then hit the tube that goes to the overflow. But it's about 5/8" below the overflow so that's better.

I tried to tighten the nut and as I feared, it broke. Is that a universal size or do I need further information to get the right one?

Most plumbing shops have spare nuts that can be picked up. You have a gravity wash down toilet that's flushed by the sheer volume of water dumping down from the tank. Make sure the rim holes are clear and that no minerals have built up in the throat of the trap in the bowl. Any bubbles or back pressure when you flush?
Give the tank as much water as it will hold without running over into the overflow tube. Make sure the little tube from the ballcock to the overflow tube's connected and working. And lastly, you might want to purchase a closet auger,(see image)just to make sure the bowl's completely clear.
Good luck. Tom