I have attached photo to show hole in top of closet bend and one starting in the center of the vertical portion of bend just under flanged part. These holes appear to be something used in the manufacture that were plugged and the plug has deteriorated. On the right edge of the photo is a banding that attaches the lead bend to another metal maybe brass ? And that goes into the cast iron tee.
Can I just use some solder like I use for copper and a torch to plug them? If so how is the lead to the heat? Any other method better ?

Hi Gs561:

You could try to patch the old lead using a PROPOXY epoxy putty.. see image, but in the long run it is only a temporary fix and will fail. Heating the lead will definitely not work here... just make the hole(s) bigger...

I think you will be better off cutting the old lead away by cutting just behind the brass ferrule... if you have at least 2" between ferrule and the cast iron hub . Then install a shielded transition clamp (buy a couple different CAST IRON SIZES that mate up with PVC), a PVC street elbow and a new PVC closet flange. Do not install the flange until AFTER you set the floor tile, but dry fit to be sure it will work.

Be sure that the center of the new elbow sets at the same center off the finished wall that the old lead elbow did.

Let us know what you think...

MARK

I think the visuals from Boston have reached a new height.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by massplumber2008

Hi Gs561:

You could try to patch the old lead using a PROPOXY epoxy putty..see image, but in the long run it is only a temporary fix and will fail. Heating the lead will definitely not work here...just make the hole(s) bigger...

I think you will be better off cutting the old lead away by cutting just behind the brass ferrule...if you have at least 2" between ferrule and the cast iron hub . Then install a shielded transition clamp (buy a couple different CAST IRON SIZES that mate up with PVC), a PVC street elbow and a new PVC closet flange. Do not install the flange until AFTER you set the floor tile, but dry fit to be sure it will work.

Be sure that the center of the new elbow sets at the same center off the finished wall that the old lead elbow did.

Let us know what you think...

MARK

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Mark,
Thanks for the info and great graphics. That looks just like it. I want the repair to be lasting so I measured the distance of the brass pipe from the cast iron to the beginning of the ferrule (hope that's correct term) it is only 1 3/16 ". Is there a way to remove the ferrule so the brass pipe would be long enough? Or am I looking at removing the lead and the brass going into the cast and replacing it with abs plastic ? If so what is this okum stuff and where would you get it? How do make it swell up? Don't want to go there but don't want problems down the road.
Thanks,
Gary

Hi Gary:

Sorry, you can't remove the ferrule, but...

A shielded clamp only requires 1.5" so you may be all set here. To gain maximum pipe length cut about 1/2" to 3/4" (giving you 2" +) into the bulge and then see if you can clean the remaining lead off the brass.

Keep us posted as you go... ;)

MARK

PS: Harold... glad you like my drawings. You were a great help in getting me started! I have accumulated quite a library the last year!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by massplumber2008

Hi Gary:

Sorry, you can't remove the ferrule, but...

A shielded clamp only requires 1.5" so you may be all set here. To gain maximum pipe length cut about 1/2" to 3/4" (giving you 2" +) into the bulge and then see if you can clean the remaining lead off the brass.

Keep us posted as you go...;)

MARK

PS: Harold...glad you like my drawings. You were a great help in getting me started! I have accumulated quite a library the last year!

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Mark,
OK I will try to cut into the bulge and then remove lead from the brass. Will let you know how it goes and thanks again.
Gary

Glad to help!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by massplumber2008

Glad to help!

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Well Mark things got a little complicated.
To end up at 12" from the wall I cut the brass pipe a little long and filed down the lead edge as much as I could. As the pic shows the hub of the 90 ends up 1" above the level of what will be the finished floor. So that is my next problem.I came up with a couple options but maybe you have something better or advise which of these you would go with.

I could cut an 1" off the hub insert an 1" of pipe into it and then cut some off the flange and insert that(after floor is done).

Or I could go with a 3" 90 (instead of the 4") use a 3" to 4" fernco to attach to the brass. I can hit the 12" off the wall and my height is ok. But I was concerned about the smaller opening in the 3" flange and 90 and wasn't sure about the fernco adapter.

I would definitely start by reducing to 3" using a 4"x3" PVC flush bushing OR a 4" cast iron x 3" PVC shielded clamp.

If that fails to fix the height issue... and I don't love this answer... but you could purchase a 3" street VENT ELBOW and use that to lower the finished flange height... ;) Vent elbows of this size are only sold at plumbing supply companies.

You could also try a 3" PTRAP 90. This is really a strret vent elbow too if I remember correctly. The supply house would most likely make you purchase the entire PTRAP but could be worth it if it worked out for you ($20.00 max.).

Finally, I'm OK with chopping a 1/2" off the flange/fitting.. but only if necessary and it is a recommended MAX!

Keep 'em coming!

MARK

Quote:

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Originally Posted by massplumber2008

I would definitely start by reducing to 3" using a 4"x3" PVC flush bushing OR a 4" cast iron x 3" PVC shielded clamp.

If that fails to fix the height issue...and I don't love this answer...but you could purchase a 3" street VENT ELBOW and use that to lower the finished flange height...;) Vent elbows of this size are only sold at plumbing supply companies.

You could also try a 3" PTRAP 90. This is really a strret vent elbow too if I remember correctly. The supply house would most likely make you purchase the entire PTRAP but could be worth it if it worked out for you ($20.00 max.).

Finally, I'm OK with chopping a 1/2" off of the flange/fitting..but only if necessary and it is a recommended MAX!!

Keep 'em coming!

MARK

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Mark,
Thanks for responding this has really turned out to be a little confusing. I attached a photo of a 3" street 90 and the fernco adapter. Just want to be sure you think this will work.
Thanks again
Gary

Hi Gary:

Hey, I don't want to make a big deal here, but I figure you want the best answer I can give you so here it is...

As a licensed plumber I can't use the clamp you posted. The fernco clamp you have there is really more so intended for underground work. It's not that it won't work, but it isn't up to code and it won't be accessible in the future. I would prefer to see a 4"cast iron x 3" PVC SHIELDED CLAMP if possible (see image). You will only find the shielded clamp at a plumbing supply house.

That being said, if you decide to use the 4"x3" clamp you have I'll bet you will be fine.

When you placed all this in... how was the fit? Let me know... O.K?

MARK

Quote:

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Originally Posted by massplumber2008

Hi Gary:

Hey, I don't want to make a big deal here, but I figure you want the best answer I can give you so here it is...

As a licensed plumber I can't use the clamp you posted. The fernco clamp you have there is really moreso intended for underground work. It's not that it won't work, but it isn't up to code and it won't be accessible in the future. I would prefer to see a 4"cast iron x 3" PVC SHIELDED CLAMP if possible (see image). You will only find the shielded clamp at a plumbing supply house.

That being said, if you decide to use the 4"x3" clamp you have I'll bet you will be fine.

When you placed all this in...how was the fit?? Let me know...O.K?

MARK

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I see. I did not see any shielded at the local home depot except ones that stayed the same size, 3x3, 4x4 etc.
So are you saying they make a 4"x3" clamp that is shielded ? And I would find this at a specialty plumbing supply house?
Thanks,
Gary

You can either go purchase this at a plumbing supply company OR purchase the 4"x4" cast iron shielded clamp and insert a 4"x3" PVC flush bushing into the shielded clamp. Either option is legal beagle... ;)

The flush bushing below is ABS plastic... you want one in PVC.

If you want to be done with this go to the plumbing supply house as some home improvement stores don't carry the flush bushing... ;) While there see if you can purchase the 3" VENT 90 (or street vent 90).. .JUST IN CASE!!

MARK

[QUOTE=gs561;1868950]Mark,
Thanks for the info and great graphics. That looks just like it. I want the repair to be lasting so I measured the distance of the brass pipe from the cast iron to the beginning of the ferrule (hope that's correct term) it is only 1 3/16 ". Is there a way to remove the ferrule so the brass pipe would be long enough? Or am I looking at removing the lead and the brass going into the cast and replacing it with abs plastic ? If so what is this okum stuff and where would you get it? How do make it swell up? Don't want to go there but don't want problems down the road.
Thanks,
Gary[/QUOTE

Do not cut any of the brass. Cut at the point where the brass meets the lead being careful not to cut the brass. Easiest way to do is leave a little excess of lead. Now heat the remaining lead around the brass and wipe off lead. This should leave you with more than 1 3/16

Cut the lead at the point where brass ends. Be careful not to cut the brass. If you have to cut off leaving a little bit more lead. Heat up remaining lead and wipe off clean from the brass. This should leave you more than 1 3/16. Make sure brass is wiped clean of lead and smooth.