Little background first I guess.

This is my first post I'm working on a tile shower remodel in Austin Texas ( my home). The house was build in 1957 ranch style on a slab. The remodel was going fine until I hit a bit of a bump, that I'm having issues resolving on my own, so I turn to the pros. The tile shower has been gutted to the studs, all tile/sheetrock and mud bed removed. Now I'm removing the old drain in the shower in the process the bolts that hold the flange to the drain base broke off. They are rusted and snapped as I tried to turn them.

I want to connect a new flange to the drain base that is in really good shape. The holes used to screw down a new flange to this base are still in the screw holes. I want to know what process might be best to remove these rusted screws so I can place new screws into the base.

I saw this post.
https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/plumbi...ver-46535.html

Which looks like the first step I might take form my issue.

Any help would be great.


http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dpB69PNnUrs/Sl...s400/photo.jpg

Image of the issue

I'd grind screws off flat, rotate new flange to new location, drill and tap new holes.

So I drilled new holes into the old screws so I now have holes for new screws.

My question is now what kind of screws would be best to use at this point the holes are about #12 or #10 size screw. HD has zinc medal screws but I know they will rust.

Also can I use my old flange it's not in bad shape I can post a pic later if needed. I've cleaned it up with a wire brush and must of the rust is gone and the cast iron looks like new.

If I can not use my old flange where do I find a new cast iron one? My local HD only has pvc

Thanks for feedback in my issue.

Rotate flange so screw holes aline in a different place. Drill new holes and tap (cut new threads). Drill and tap for screw that fit flange. Drill one hole, tap and insert one screw. Then drill remaining holes through flange. Remove the one screw and flange and tap remaining holes. That way all holes will line up with flange holes. You can use stainless steel screws it you wish.

Hi Georgieatx...

I would follow Hkstroud's advice exactly... best way to do this really! It certainly sounds like you can use the old flange no problem!

What kind of shower pan are you installing here.. Just curious if this is a hot mop, a copper pan, a vinyl membrane, or a painted water proofer pan?

Sometimes, we see people using the wrong strainer assemblies for their application so just thought I would ask to be 100% sure you are headed in the correct direction... ;)

MARK

I'll be using a new vinyl membrane as used when the house was built.

I plan to create a pre sloped this time though
Finishing a Basement Bathroom - Part 3 | HandymanHowto.com

What I was wondering... ;)

That is not the correct drain assembly for a vinyl membrane. The following picture shows the correct drain assembly. It is also used in the link you posted. They may have gotten away with it last time as this is in the basement, but no way that would fly on 1st or 2nd floor.

You should remove that drain assembly and install the correct drain assembly... especially if you are going to go to the trouble of doing this right and presloping the membrane!

With the correct drain assembly you will actually cement the vinyl membrane to the drain assembly... guarantees water cannot seep out from in between membrane and drain assembly.

Up to you, of course.

Let me know what you think...

MARK



The idea is

Well this house was built pre PVC it's a one story house. So it's a cast iron system with vinyl membrane with drain assembly. It has weep holes built into the flange that goes over the drain and membrane.

How is it not correct? It just not pvc but cast iron right?

Hi again:

I need to be careful here... I have done dozens of copper pans, maybe 15 vinyl membrane and 3 hot mop system shower pans so I have some experience, but I am no expert by any means... ;)

But the way I was taught to install vinyl membranes did not include using a cast iron drain... NO WAY! I just want to be sure you get the best advice here is all...

Maybe some of the other guys here can tell us if they have used these drains with vinyl before... so wait until others pop in... OK?

Could be that maybe I'll learn something here!

Thanks for your patience!

MARK

Thanks for help.

Back in the 60's and 70's when I was out in the field we plumbed with cast iron. We built our showers using a cast iron flange type shower drain and formed our pans out of Blue Compaseal Vinyl, (see images) with no complaints or call backs.
If your bolt holes line up with top and bottom I can see no reason not to use the old flange. That was on a second floor installation, on the slab we left a shower dap-out and hot mopped the dap-out with a regular caulk on shower drain, Good luck, Tom

There you go Georgieatx...

You're all set here... :) I just wanted to be sure.

In my area all these cast iron drains had tar paper membranes... never vinyl, but as Tom pointed out he's done it this way for years!

Thanks for popping in Tom!

MARK

I would use some kind of sealer under the vinyl, where the second part squeezes down against it, before you put the second part of the double seepage drain in place, but be careful that you do not stop up any of the weep holes in the second piece. I would also use some plumbers grease on the threads of the chrome flange before I screwed it into place.

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I would use some kind of sealer under the vinyl, where the second part squeezes down against it, before you put the second part of the double seepage drain in place,

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We don't do that in my area for the exact same reason Letmetellu gives,

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be careful that you do not stop up any of the weep holes in the second piece.

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If you slop any sealant on the plates or vinyl there's no way to keep it out of the weep holes. Regards, Tom

When you say "sealer under the vinyl"

What brand would be best?

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Originally Posted by georgieatx

when you say "sealer under the vinyl"

what brand would be best?

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I don't recommend clogging the weep holes with sealant. So you seal up the vinyl up all nice and water tight at the flange so no water can seep on down past to the weep holes. Kind of defeats the reason to have weep holes down there doesn't it? Regards, tom