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-   -   1991 Honda Civic (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=37081)

  • Oct 14, 2006, 11:46 AM
    panman
    1991 Honda Civic
    I have a problem with my 91 Honda Civic. The ECU codes are 1, 6, 7, and 17. I can start the car fine. After running about 3-4 minutes just idling it begins to seem to choke for fuel. Giving it more gas will help, but it still wants to sputter. If I drive it after starting it it will run fine for the first 1/2 mile then it starts the same sputtering and wanting to die. On the interstate it will do the same but eventually just dies. I pull off and let it set for a few minutes and it starts fine and runs fine. I take off and in about 1/2 mile it starts the same thing again. Does anyone have any suggestions as to where to look as to the problem.
  • Oct 14, 2006, 12:32 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    When you turn the ignition to ON, does the Check Engine Light (CEL) come on and then go off after 2 seconds? Is there a "click" sound from the main relay, when the CEL goes out? During this 2 second period, do you hear the fuel pump in the gas tank run?
  • Oct 14, 2006, 02:03 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    Main relay and computer.
  • Oct 16, 2006, 09:37 AM
    panman
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey
    Main relay and computer.


    How costly is this repair?
  • Oct 16, 2006, 10:29 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    From Honda, main relays and ECMs cost $60 and $850, respectively. From RockAuto.com, main relays and ECMs cost $45 and $260 (Cardone remanufactured), respectively.

    All the codes your Civic is throwing are sensor-related: Code 1--Heated Oxygen Sensor, Code 6--Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor, Code 7--Throttle Position Sensor, and Code 17--Vehicle Speed Sensor. It's not logical to assume all of these sensors are bad, but it is logical to suspect that the ECM (computer) could be failing.

    You should have me walk you through a few basic electrical diagnostic steps first, if you are interested. I have solved many of the most challenging electrical problems for Honda owners. It's your call.
  • Oct 16, 2006, 10:38 AM
    tdeboy
    I have a 91 Honda. First thing check your spark plugs, mine were fowled out.
    Once replaced mine is running GREAT!

    If not, check the fuel filter.. Process of elimination.. :D
  • Oct 16, 2006, 12:27 PM
    panman
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey
    From Honda, main relays and ECMs cost $60 and $850, respectively. From RockAuto.com, main relays and ECMs cost $45 and $260 (Cardone remanufactured), respectively.

    All the codes your Civic is throwing are sensor-related: Code 1--Heated Oxygen Sensor, Code 6--Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor, Code 7--Throttle Position Sensor, and Code 17--Vehicle Speed Sensor. It's not logical to assume all of these sensors are bad, but it is logical to suspect that the ECM (computer) could be failing.

    You should have me walk you through a few basic electrical diagnostic steps first, if you are interested. I have solved many of the most challenging electrical problems for Honda owners. It's your call.


    I am game... how do we start?
  • Oct 16, 2006, 12:35 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    When the ignition is turned to ON (not to START), does the Check Engine Light (CEL) come on for 2 seconds and then go off? During this 2 second period, do you hear the fuel pump in the gas tank run? When the CEL goes out, do you hear (and possibly feel, when you touch it) the main relay "click"
  • Oct 16, 2006, 02:29 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    Hello.
  • Oct 20, 2006, 09:32 AM
    panman
    Greasemonkey... I am ready to start the electrical check process. Panman
  • Oct 20, 2006, 09:46 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    I will help you, with the provision that you respond prompty. I don't like to drag these things out. OK?
  • Mar 5, 2012, 10:58 AM
    dkilgore6158
    Have you considered the Idle Air Temp valve(IAT valve). This valve is located on the intake manifold and has a 1/4inch water line going to it along with electrical wires. It is located usually at the top of the intake manifold closest to the firewall. This device works like a choke for fuel injection by way of water temp. This just may explain why you car works shortly after starting and then has issues after a mile or 2.
  • Jun 20, 2012, 07:10 AM
    permaspin
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    When you turn the ignition to ON, does the Check Engine Light (CEL) come on and then go off after 2 seconds? Is there a "click" sound from the main relay, when the CEL goes out? During this 2 second period, do you hear the fuel pump in the gas tank run?

    GreaseMonkey.. Can you help me out? I'm having a very similar problem to this, I will respond promptly and not lolly gag and waste your time.. I'm limited to a blackberry.. Can you email me and help me out.. I can respond much faster through email. [email protected]

    Thanks in advance
  • Jun 20, 2012, 07:23 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    permaspin, start your own thread and I'll help you. Tell me exactly what you are experiencing.
  • Jun 20, 2012, 07:42 AM
    permaspin
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    permaspin, start your own thread and I'll help you. Tell me exactly what you are experiencing.

    Ok I posted my problem
  • Jun 20, 2012, 07:52 AM
    permaspin
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    permaspin, start your own thread and I'll help you. Tell me exactly what you are experiencing.

    Ok I posted my problem

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