Hi!

I'm new to the site, and have found tons of useful information, but I now have several possible routes to take, and I don't know which one will be best for me.

I am retiling my bathroom, and I have a cast iron flange that is much too high and has a crack in it. I've read that I can lower the flange, break off the escess, and then creat a sokum and lead joint, but I don't have the proper tools. Because the flange has a crack I should probably replace it anyway. If I'm going to replace it, I'm guessing I should switch over to PVC, but I could be wrong. :o

A little more background: the bath is above an unfinished basement, with easy access to the main drain. There is roughly 3' before the toilet drain pipe connects to an elbow with a heel outlet. I believe the pipe is 4".

Here are my possible plans:

#1- Cut the cast iron from the basement, drop the pvc down from above, and connect it with a no-hub band. If I go this route, I would be using a sawzall, is there a special blade to use, or should I score the pipe before starting? I know the cast iron is brittle, so I'm thinking of starting up close to the bath floor in case it breaks, then I can start a new cut below it?

# 2- Find an easier way to fasten the existing flange, and buy a repair flange piece to cover the crack?

#3- Where the pipe meets the elbow is it threaded? If so, is there a tool that aids in unthreading it, and could I thread in PVC?

Any help is greatly appreciated! :)

Andy

Hi Andy,

While your way would work a much simpler way would be to break off the flange, remove the lead and oakum joint, bring the stub-up down to grade and install a inside closet flange that needs no lead joint. Sound like a plan? Tom

Thanks Tom! :) I actually got most of my information from your answers to other questions. I was a little tardy posting my question, and had to go at it before I received your post. I ended up renting a chain soil pipe cutter from the local HD, and picked upa No-hub band to convert to 4"PVC. I would like to use an offset flange to give me a little more leg room from the side wall, but it isn't totally necessary; is that a bad idea? I don't know if they should only be used as a last resort. My subfloor for tile is in place, so I won't be able to move the pipe over at this point. If I only knew last week I would end up removing the soil pipe, I'd be all set. Oh well, hind sight is 20/20.

Do you happen to have any experience pouring self leveling concrete? I am pondering how to install a dam around the flange. I would like to pour the concrete-install tile, then slide the pipe down from above and make my cuts so the flange rests perfectly on the finished floor.

Thanks again Tom, you're the man!

What kind of a off set are we talking about? The only experience I Have with cement is patching the holes I made myself. Sorry, I can't help with that. Regards, Tom

My goal is to get the toilet a couple inches away from the left side wall. HD only had a 3" offset PVC flange, but I would need a 4", which I hope I would be able to pick up at a plumming supply store. The hole in the subfloor is a few inches larger than it needs to be so I should have the room, but I don't know if using offset flanges is frowned upon by pro's like yourself. If the offset flange puts me at great risk of problems down the road, I'll just deal with my leg being close to the wall.

Thanks again! :)

A four inch off set is quite a bit. I draw the line at two inches. In drainage the cardinal rule is, "straight is better," the more turns the more the flow's impeded. If you're a big guy and need the room then by all means offset but if you don't need the extra room I would go with a regular flange. Regards, Tom