I have a 1988 honda civic Lx. The car starts when the engine is cold but as soon I drive it and turn off the engine it would not restart. Replace the fuel filter and the spark plugs but that didn't work. Im wondering if it could be my star relay (if any on civics)or my engine coil.
How do icheck if need to replace those two items.what else could be wrong. Thank You

Sounds like it could be either your igniter or main relay. Autozone and O'Reilly Auto can check igniters and coils for free; coils and main relays can also be checked out on your own. If you plan to keep the car, I would just replace the igniter, coil, and main relay. These components cause many electrical problems on older Hondas.

I have a 1988 honda civic Lx. The car starts when the engine is cold but as soon I drive it and turn off the engine it would not restart. Replace the fuel filter and the spark plugs but that didn't work. Im wondering if it could be my star relay (if any on civics)or my engine coil.
How do icheck if need to replace those two items.what else could be wrong. Thank You

Turn the ignition switch to ON. Does the check engine light go on then off? During this period, do you hear the fuel pump run? Is there a relay click sound when the light goes out?

If you want me to help diagnose your car's problem, you need to respond much faster. It takes active participation by both parties; otherwise, it doesn't work.

Txgreasemonkey thank you for helping I'm new at this, and I don't know how to reply unless this is the way. Yes the check ingeni light goes on and sometimes I hear a relay and the fuel pump go on some timesi don't hear any of them

Does the CEL come on and then go out after 2 seconds, after you turn the ignition to ON?

What's is cel and how do I check ot

CEL is the Check Engine Light. It's the yellow light that comes on when you turn the ignition to ON.

Yes the CEL comes on for 2 seconds and then goes away

During that 2 second period, did you hear the fuel pump run? The fuel pump is in the gas tank, so the noise should come from the rear of the car.

Sometimes I hear the fuel pump and some times I don't. I just recently changr the fuel filter and was full of gas, I don't know if that means that fuel pump is working

Go and try again. When you turn the ignition key to ON (not START), you should hear the fuel pump in the gas tank run for 2 seconds.

This time I heard it but its not consistent sometimes I don't hear it

Every time you turn the ignition key to ON, the fuel pump should run for 2 seconds and then shut off.

If you are convinced it's doing that, then you are basically telling me the main relay, fuel pump, ignition switch, and computer (ECM) are OK.

Based upon that answer, I suspect the Ignition Control Module (ICM), also called an igniter, is bad. It is located in the distributor. It is very common for the igniter and coil to go on older Hondas. Therefore, if you plan on keeping the car, I would replace the igniter and coil together. The dealer would replace them as a package, if you took it to them. I would go one step further, since your Civic is so old. I would definitely replace the main relay, since they are so problematic on Civics. I think if you do this your Honda will run like a top. These parts wear out just like spark plugs and distributor caps. If you want to save the money, Autozone and O'Reilly Auto will test igniters and coils for free.

To help you locate the main relay:

http://techauto.te.funpic.org/civicrelay.php

Could it be that fuel pump is not working properly. If fuel pump is working properly could it be te start relay, coil or igniter, sometimes my car would start and drive perfectly but as soon I tyrn off the engine it would not restart would have to do anthing with the fuel pump of the ignition system

Thank you ill try changing those to items, do you have any idea how much a shop would charge. If not ill change them myself .thanks for the advice and ill keep you posted

Where would I find the start relay on the car

I would do the job myself. Honda igniters ($111.34) and coils ($104.19) are very expensive. Take the distributor cap off, remove the rotor and dust cover, and then remove the coil. This gives you more room to remove the igniter. The igniter just mounts on a heat sink. Make sure to coat the back of the igniter with silicone dielectric grease before reattaching it to the heat sink. Also, coat each igniter terminal with silicone grease. Disconnect negative battery terminal before beginning work.

I suspect your igniter is breaking down, when it heats up. It is nothing more than an electronic switch (like old distributor points). It has a microchip in it that gives off a lot of heat, plus the heat from the engine.

What about the start relay do ineed to change that and where is it in the car