The toilet is giving me some issues lately. I think the fluidmaster may need to be replaced for one as the water is not shutting off when it reaches the top. I did try to slide the guide down on the copper guide inside the tank but the float isn't going up any.

So to turn the water off I've been using the shut off valve on the wall behind the toilet, which in turn has started having a slight leak. I attempted to tighten the nut a little short time ago and I haven't been back up to check it as of yet, but as of a couple hours ago even with the water off at the valve the toilet is still putting water into the tank.

What can I do? Please answer ASAP!

Thank you for any assistance you can give me as neither my mom nor I can really afford to bring in a plumber right now and honestly the house isn't in company shape so she feels embarressed about it and doesn't want one to come here at the moment either. :(

Does the float or the vertical wire move at all? If the wire vertical or angled. Have you tried lifting the float above the water level when the tank is emptied (in case an air pocket needs draining)? Does the water shut off if you lift the wire (and the lever that connects it to the valve) with your hand?

Sometimes debris from the water line keeps the rubber seal within the top of the valve from closing.

Since the seal is a synthetic rubber part, eventually it hardens and needs to be replaced. I don't know how hard the seals are to get, as I have a cousin that's married to a plumber (I just obtained the part from him, I changed the seal myself).

The cap shaped top of the valve comes off after a slight press and a counterclockwise twist (similar to a child resistant medicine cap), exposing the seal. Make sure the cutoff valve is closed or a spout of water will hit the ceiling!

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Originally Posted by robertva

Does the float or the vertical wire move at all? If the wire vertical or angled. Have you tried lifting the float above the water level when the tank is emptied (in case an air pocket needs draining)? Does the water shut off if you lift the wire (and the lever that connects it to the valve) with your hand?

Sometimes debris from the water line keeps the rubber seal within the top of the valve from closing.

Since the seal is a synthetic rubber part, eventually it hardens and needs to be replaced. I don't know how hard the seals are to get, as I have a cousin that's married to a plumber (I just obtained the part from him, I changed the seal myself).

The cap shaped top of the valve comes off after a slight press and a counterclockwise twist (similar to a child resistant medicine cap), exposing the seal. Make sure the cutoff valve is closed or a spout of water will hit the ceiling!

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The float isn't really moving and when I lifted it up it didn't stop the sound of water running into the tank, which is constantly now even with the water shut off at the valve in the bathroom. I was able to get the cap off the valve but it didn't really seem to flush anything out and after I put the cap back on I was not able to get it back off. (just went upstairs to see if I could clear it out again without having to change the rubber gasket in there) :mad: <~~ getting frustrated

As it is the water is filling all the way up now to the overflow tube so I am kind of anxious to get this fixed as you can imagine.

The current set up is closest to this picture that I found here posted by Speedball previously so I think there is a Fluidmaster part currently in the toilet.

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/attach...-ballcocks.jpg

Replace the seal. Purchase a FluidMaster Seal#242 from your local big box store. To replace it you will have to shut the water off to the tank and take the tank lid off. Twist the top of the ballcock off counterclockwise, (see image in above post, ) and pull up. Pry out the seal and replace it. Reassemble, turn the water back on and give it a flush. Better now? Regards and thanks for rating my answer, Tom

The angle stop under toilet needs the washer replaced.

Shut off main water supply. Drain tank. Loosen bonnet nut and remove valve. Replace washer. Check seat inside angle stop body. It should be smooth. If not angle stop needs to be replaced.

Good luck

Chuck

Quote:

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Originally Posted by creahands

The angle stop under toilet needs the washer replaced.

Shut off main water supply. Drain tank. Loosen bonnet nut and remove valve. Replace washer. Check seat inside angle stop body. It should be smooth. If not angle stop needs to be replaced.

Good luck

Chuck

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Chuck finished off the part I missed. He gave you directions, here's a pictureto go with it. Good luck, Tom

Question on the angle valve washer replacement, should I do all of the rings or just the first one?

And should I do both of them or see if replacing the washer in the fluid valve will do?

On the angle valve replace the bottom one. That's the washer that's bad.
Also replace the seal in the ballcock according to the instructions. Good luck, Tom

Replaced the washer on the tank and it stopped the water continuously filling the tank although I can still hear water so I'm assuming the angle valve does need to be done as well.

But it looks like I'll have to go to a different hardware store for those gaskets/rings as the Ace Hardware I went to for the Fluidmaster had no clue really as to what I was looking for.

Going to go check the toilet to see if the level has remained the same or if it has started up again.

If unable to get washer for flowmaster, buy new. Cost about $10.

Chuck

Found the seal for the Fluidmaster and that has been replaced. It sort of stopped the water for a few minutes as the float is now working again and the water turned off.. like I said for a few minutes.

I looked at the toilet set up and it isn't exactly like the picture you posted Tom, the kind we have here is the shut off valve which is flush against the drywall and there isn't a hose leading up to the toilet, just the copper water tube. Will this make a difference in what I get to repair it?

I was at Lowe's earlier today to get the washer and the employees I spoke to said that the angle valve does not have washers inside of it, just the hose.

The angle stop comes in 2 designs. The one in Tom's picture and one that has valve on top and feed tube on end. The copper tube makes no difference.

The angle stop shuts water off so toilet can be serviced/repaired if there is problem. It does not control the amount of water getting into tank. This is controlled by Fluidmaster.

The person at Lowe's is wrong. If u look in angle valve from opposite end of valve, u will see a ring that is black. That is washer.

On the fluidmaster, there is an arm(see pic) that turns water on/off to tank. Lift arm, water should shut off coming into tank. If it does not, then washer u replaced is damaged.

If it does shut of water, then flapper is leaking. Lift flapper and check it with finger. Should be smooth and leave no black residue on hand. If it does, replace flapper.

Chuck

If you replace the angle stop don't pull off the large nut and ferule from the 1/2" copper pipe. Reuse it for the new stop. Good luck, Tom