I'm finishing my basement and have conflicting advice on how to wall the floating frame. In the bathroom I would like the wall tiles to go to the floor without the strip (baseboard) that goes around the base of the wall. First is this possible? Second, if possible how is it done? I've been told I can just put the backer board down to about 1" above the floor and let the tiles (1 foot square) hand down the extra inch - the tiles would have no backing for that bottom inch which worries me.

Suggestions?

What do you mean by floating frame? I'm in the business and never heard that term.

As for your questions, yes you can tile the wall down to the floor. You stick the tiles to the wall with wall tile mastic. Then after 24hrs you can grout the wall tiles.
Your second question is yes you can hang the tile down an 1" over your backer board at the floor. Dont worry because you will have 11" of tile adhering to the wall. If this still worries you, you can goop mastic in that 1" area.

I hope I answered your questions. If not post back.

"floating Frame" - made that up as I don't know the correct term. Here in Colorado we have a lot of clay in the soil. Our basement floors "float" inside the outer cement walls so when we frame the walls in the basement they hang from the ceiling joists and float about an inch or two above a green board nailed/glued to the cement floor. We use a large spike to keep the bottom from swinging but if the floor were to move up the spike can move up also keeping the upper floors from getting shoved up in the process. Drywall to the floor would get shoved up also so I was told to float it above the floor with the baseboard covering the gap.

So, my question is - if my floor moves up what is going to give? The mastic or the cement backer board? Given that the backer board is 1" above the floor but the tiles meet the floor.

Thanks,

Brad

I had a response but for some reason it wouldn't let me post. I guess I took too long in trying answer your question.

Anyway, your probably right in your term. It is interesting, learned something new today.

Here in PA we fasten the walls to the slab because we don't worry about vertical movement.

So to your question. The tile will crack/pop if they tight are against the floor and assuming the floor is at its lowest point when the tiles are installed.

What you can do is, assuming the floor won't rise more than a 1/4", is place a piece of 1/4" plywood on the floor up against the wall/greenboard. Tile the wall and then remove the plywood from under the tile. Your tile is now a 1/4" off the floor. You can caulk this gap and the caulking is now a "bumper" between the tile and the slab.
If you think the slab will raise more than a 1/4", use 1/2" ply as a spacer.

Hope this helps. If not let me know.